Unable to start the car

Transceiver.

Good morning, sir, it is fuse 40 that has the low reading. I checked the others and fuse 51 has 0.05. The rest didn't give any reading.

Good morning boss, I wasn't using the appropriate ground that is why I was getting those low values in those fuses. So far with the aid of the technician, we are getting the 5 volts at the TPS and injectors. DLC and PCM is communicating. When you turned the ignition on, the hazard light stay on and goes off. It shows that the new PCM is programmed. He is saying he is suspicious of the power holding relay as its ground is low and the fuse 9 is not getting voltage. He doesn't know why the switching ground in pin 26, 27 of the PCM is not supplying to starter. That is what is required to crank the engine. How do we do? How do we resolve this? I really appreciate you for being there and almighty God bless you real good.

The technician has been able to do of the job. He said the transmission sensor is bad. Rodents has cut off the wire to the fuel pump socket (connector). Can I get the part number for these? Going by him, the car will start now. You have been of immense help and support. God bless you for showing so much concern.

Greetings boss, the technician has made significant progress. The car starts from the key. However, there are still some shortfalls. The number one is that repeated switch on and off, the well charged battery ran down. The number two is that when the headlamps are connected to a direct power, it turned on, but it cannot turn on from circuit. The number three is that when the car was scanned, it reads circuit fuel A, but he said that the fuel circuit has been repaired as the fuel pump was changed. Fourthly, the sound is not very comfortable. Lastly, when he turns on the ignition, the battery charging, airbag and low oil pressure stay lit before going off. I can't remember that is how it used to be. From the headlamps that has not come up and poor charge storing, there is still a faulty circuit which is the original problem. All advice and suggestions are welcome. Thanks very much and God bless you sir.

Very importantly too, it will idle for a few minutes and stop.

Good day sir, I felt exhausted from the three days working on the car. I tried the key in the engine run not start, in a number of 5 times. Different illumination light turned on and off on the cluster illumination but the car couldn't start with 12.39 volts. I am now looking for a higher voltage battery to start it. I was expecting 12.39 should start it. I don't really know if the problem has been resolved. He said the engine is misfiring, I should service the injectors. From my Haynes manual, the only possible cause of misfire here is the crankshaft position sensor. Thanks very much for encouragement and God bless you bountifully.

Greetings, boss. I just want to thank you for your immense contributions. My observation is that the ignition always responds when the key is turned to the on position, but the car can't start. All the cluster instrument lights will come up. Then, I just noticed that the moonlight is not working yet, along with the trunk interior light. I can see they are controlled by the battery saver. Unfortunately, from my last discussion with the technician, he hasn't grasped the concept of the battery saver. Do you think the battery saver relay or circuit is an issue here? Can a parasitic draw test resolve it? The engine is making an attempt to crank whenever it is turned on, which shows that the starter motor is engaged, but the car won't start. Thank you very much for your contributions and efforts. May almighty God enrich you with knowledge and wisdom.

Good morning, sir. I left the battery insitu in the car overnight. I checked it at the night, it was 12.32. And this morning I went to check it again. It is 12.25. I am still leaving it in the car till in the evening to see the reading. He carried out the procedure you mentioned in the course of his work. One of programmed key was cut manually, so it doesn't fit well. Trying to get the other one cut. As far as fuel system, he suggested I change the fuel filter and I am trying to get that. I still see the car starting with so much resistance which it was supposed not to be. Thank you very much for coming through.

Could there be correlation with the images and what I am insinuating, and the seatbelt illumination could an indication of something?

At the moment, it is 12.21.

Good day boss, a wrap up of the components that need to be fixed before the car can be on the road. I just discovered to my greatest dismay that I couldn't find the power steering switch connector. I saw it on rockauto. Com but don't know the perfect match. I also need to replace the upper coolant reservoir hose, ignition capacitor, the exhaust nut, the throttle body bolt you identified earlier, the injectors, the horn, fuel filter. I might not have OEM of some of these parts again. Kindly help me with the part numbers or a direct link to source for them online. It could be their aftermarket or rebuild. The one you feel could be affordable and reliable quality. I want to avoid error because of the time and distance for me to order and receive them. Thank you very much and God bless you real good. We have made so much progress. Thanks to your support, patience and time.

In addition, please where does the hose I identified with blue go into and the one with yellow coming from the exhaust seems to be broken off at the opposite end. Where is it supposed to continue to or join to? Thanks once again.