Turn signals not working?

Did you check the fuse, upper left in diagram, turn/backup fuse? Not only check the fuse, use a test light on fuse circuit to check for voltage, goes hot with key on. Could be other issues like turn signal switch? Always check voltage and grounds.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/turn-signals-not-working-blinker

Yes, fuse 16--15 amp, interior fuse box.

Hello,

We must see if the socket is getting power. Here are few guides and a wiring diagram so you can do some tests to get the problem fixed. Test with the key on and blinkers going.

Also cycle the hazard switch to, this can some time get the blinkers working.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/turn-signals-not-working-blinker

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please run this test and get back to us we are interested to see what it is.

Cheers, Ken

That pretty much tells you the problem is right there. It's either the socket could be the wrong one, could be the wrong bulb or just a bad socket.

If you handle the socket or bulb and that causes the light to come on, common sense will tell you the problem isn't in the front of the car.

Are you doing this yourself now?

Do you have simple test equipment. Voltmeter. Test light. Know how, as far as running continuity tests and such?

If it comes down to purchasing this over priced hunk of plastic, I can clue you in on saving $$$ on it. Just ask. This overlooked asset works at all kinds of places

i found you a diagram in "mitchell"

this one is for "exterior lamps". Looks like it shows what you are interested in

there are many more for the rest of the wiring, it is not feasible to get 'em all for you (mitchell sorta wants you [and me] to subscribe to their system, they are not a non-profit organization!)

without broadcasting your email address in open forum, if you cannot see this diagram well. Tell me.I will initiate a way to get it to you. Mitchell diagrams are "crisp" in my downloads, they are so ez to understand. Depending on size and content, they may show up great. Then again, could be a blur, once I load it into my answer

the medic

The best suspect is the turn signal switch. The hazard function goes through just one small part of that switch, but when switched on, it disconnects a number of circuits within the signal switch. It's one of those contacts that is likely failed.

First, check if the backup lamps work. If they do, the turn signal fuse is okay.

The "Brake light" fuse has to be okay because that runs the hazard flasher.

Look for the "Brake light" relay in the fuse box under the hood. Feel if it clicks when a helper presses the brake pedal.

Next, we'll have to go to the wires going to the signal switch and test for voltage with a test light. I'm trying to figure out from the diagram which wires to check.

My diagram showed the same one bulb on each side for signal and brake function. Don't have a suitable answer as to why the hazards worked.

Common things to look for on the sockets include rusty housings for the older 1157 brass-base round bulbs, and contacts overheated and melted into the plastic base. Those contacts are spring-loaded, so when the plastic melts, the contacts sink into the base and no longer touch the contact on the bulb. You can make a temporary fix by adding a drop of solder to the contacts on the bulb.

For the newer plastic-base 3057s, it's real common to find the contact tabs in the socket badly-corroded. Two of them are grounds, but for the two different filaments. You can get a clue a ground is bad by observing that with only one working signal light, it will stop lighting up when the bulb on the other side is removed. Current goes through the bulb that appears to be working, can't get to ground, so it doubles back and goes through the tail light filament, over to the tail light on the other side, through it, THEN to ground on that side. Current goes through three filaments so the one that appears to be working is actually not full brightness. That three-filament circuit can't occur when the brake lights are on, so the signal works properly on the good side, and the one on the bad side goes fully-off. This is where you see the two lights switch between bright filament and dim filament alternately, especially on trailers.

Hello,

It sounds like you have a bad ground I would check at the rear of the truck first. here is a guide and the wiring diagrams so you can check the grounds:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.