As the engine warms up the transmission does not shift into drive or reverse?

Hi,

Is the transmission fluid clean and full? I ask because I've seen where the transmission filter is plugged by dirt in the pan. With the engine off, the dirt drops back into the pan and fluid can pass through the filter and it will work. As the dirt begins to collect again, it plugs the filter, and pressure is lost. As a result, there is no gear engagement.

Also, you may want to consider scanning the can-bus. CAN stands for controller area network. Basically, all of the modules are tied together via a few wires. This type of scan will retrieve codes regardless of the module storing them.

Here is a link showing how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

I have a basic OBD 2 scan tool. How is the scan tool in the link provided different? Also, will that scan tool you recommend be able to do all the things I need to diagnose? Lastly, I read a link describing how to fill the transmission fluid, but what is a good way to check the condition of the fluid? If there is dirt in the bottom of the pan that is being picked up into the filter, how am I to ascertain it’s there? I guess I can tell if the fluid looks burnt, is that enough?
Sorry for all the questions, thanks!

Hi,

Could you let me know if this is 4WD or not and if it has the 3.6L or the 4.6L engine? I need to know to determine the transmission that is used.

As far as the fluid, you can't see inside the transmission, so it is really based on how bad the fluid looks. If it is very dirty, then it would be worthwhile checking.

As far as the scan tools are concerned, they're designed to communicate with the different modules. A traditional one only can receive information from the PCM.

Let me know.

Joe

It’s a 3.6L, 4WD.

Hi,

Okay, I attached the directions below for checking fluid level and condition. Take a look through the directions and let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Could you recommend a CAN scanner, or at least what features, that at minimum it would need to scan for transmission issues? The article you provided only says that you can get them for as little as $35 on Amazon but then suggests I should look at what features it offers before choosing which to buy. Seeing as I look at this purchase as a potential one off, I don’t want to spend a fortune on a professional grade reader, when an inexpensive one would suffice.

Hi,

I attached one below that covers nearly everything. It is a bit more money, but it is something you can use for newer vehicles as you get them.,

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

I finally received the scanner you recommended. After updating the OS on it, I found no transmission codes and only one engine code, P1012, high fuel pressure. I’m going to assess the transmission fluid tomorrow. I had to get a T45 socket, mine came up missing. Will update you tomorrow.

Hi,

The code you have is related to a camshaft position sensor. See pic below. Where did you find the high fuel pressure definition? I'm curious because my manual has been wrong in the past.

As far as the transmission is concerned, let me know what you find when you get a good look at the fluid condition and condition.

Take care and thanks for the update.

Joe

I just goggled the code, p1012, all the results came back as high fuel pressure. I didn’t search it vehicle specific.

Here’s a sample.

I checked the fluid this AM. I didn’t do it precisely as the instructions said to, that was my error. Instead of getting the vehicle up to operating temperature before opening the drain plug, I opened it before I started the engine. I’d say about a pint or two of fluid promptly drained out. At any rate, I followed the rest of the directions perfectly. Vehicle to operating temperature, moved gear shifter through the range of selections, pausing on each one for a bit. I checked the level with a screwdriver. Fluid was just below the drain hole. No more fluid leaked out after initial opening, even after turning off the motor and during cool down. Transmission fluid looked normal. Red, slightly brownish, didn’t smell burnt and wasn’t foamy. My only questions are what’s next and is it normal to have that much fluid come pouring out, even when the engine was cold?

Hi,

The reasoning behind having the fluid at operating temperature is that it expands when it gets hot. Now, if you shut the engine with the plug removed, the fluid should have come out. If none did, it's low. You should actually have a trickle coming out while the engine is running, and the system is warmed up.

Let me know if no fluid came out when the engine was off. Also, was the vehicle on a level surface?

Joe

Like I said previously, nothing came out while running. nothing came out after I turned it off for at least 15-20 minutes. I checked fluid level with a screwdriver both while running and 20 min after shutdown. The level didn’t appear to change. Both times it appeared to be full and level with the drain plug hole. The only time I lost fluid was when I first opened the drain plug, engine and transmission cold, I lost at least a pint maybe two. Vehicle was level the entire time.

Hi,

Okay, if that is the case, you need to add fluid to it until it begins to trickle out. As before, this needs to be done with the engine running and both at operating temperature.

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, what is the procedure for filling the transmission? Is there a spot to add transmission fluid or do you add at the same hole as you drain from?

Hi,

There is a fill tube at the top of the transmission, or you can fill it through the check plug.

I attached the directions below. The last pics are the directions for checking the fluid level. Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

Okay, I attempted to fill at the drain hole. I could not find a fill hole on my transmission. I warmed the vehicle to operating temperature. Opened the drain hole after going through the gear shift, stopping at each gear for at least three seconds. When I opened the drain, I got a steady drip of transmission fluid. Using a hand pump, I attempted to add more, but as much as I added, it just came right back out.
To recap, I have no codes after multiple cycles. Transmission is full of fluid up to the drain hole. Fluid is red to reddish brown and is not burnt smelling. I am no closer to diagnosis.
Do you have any other options?

Hi,

Did you ever remove the pan to inspect the filter for dirt or obstruction? If you have and it was okay, then we need to check the line pressure to see if it is within the manufacturer's specifications.

I attached the procedure below. Let me know if it is something you are comfortable performing.

If we find this is low, it may be the pressure control solenoid valve sticking or damaged.

Let me know.

joe

See pics below.

It’s not that I’m not comfortable doing this, I don’t have the tools required. The scanner you advised I buy doesn’t have the capability to perform that test. The other tools I need cost a lot of money even if I go the cheapest route. They are also not available to rent at any parts store in town. I even tried to consult a bunch of mobile mechanics who could come out to perform that test and none of them could or will.
It would be cheaper to just replace the solenoid myself and see if that fixes the problem. At this point, it’s either that or just tow it to a transmission shop, which I’m trying to avoid.
Also, I never pulled the pan to check the filter. I assumed since the fluid didn’t look particularly dirty or smell burnt, it was unnecessary. What’s your opinion/advice?

I understand. My focus with the scan tool was to find one that can read all codes (can-bus). A bidirectional one is needed for this, and they aren't cheap.

As far as removing the pan, it certainly wouldn't hurt to check the filter. It could be partially plugged and lowering pressure. Let me know which direction you want to go and I'll help you through it.

Take care,

Joe

So, you wouldn’t recommend just changing the solenoid? I mean, it’s cheaper than replacing the transmission fluid and filter. But yes, if you could send me some directions on how to change the fluid and filter, I would appreciate it.

Hi,

As far as replacing the part, I'm not a fan of doing so without clarification, but that one is your call. I just don't want to see you spend money and not be any further.

As far as the filter/pan, I attached the directions below. When you do this, there is a rubber O-ring at the top of the filter, where it attaches to the valve body. Make sure that it is removed and a new one is fully installed before installing the new filter. Lubricate it with trans fluid to make it a little easier.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

See pics below.

Would the Innova 5610 code reader be capable of doing the bi-directional test of the solenoid?

I wish I could answer that for you, but I'm not familiar with the product. Is there anything indicating it is bi-directional?

Sorry I don't have a better answer.

Let me know.

Joe

It is bi-directionable. As long as it is, it should work? Or no?

Hi,

In theory, yes it should work. Please understand that I'm not familiar with the scan tool and don't want to cause you more problems by guaranteeing it will work. LOL I hope you understand.

Let me know how things turn out for you.

Joe

Okay, I removed the transmission pan and filter. I will enclose pics of what I found. My questions are as follows. Is any of this normal? There is a layer of trans fluid/black sludge at the bottom of the pan. What’s the best method to clean it up? Solvent? Brake cleaner? Carb cleaner? The filter itself is supposed to be black plastic on one side and silver metal on the other. Is it normal for the silver side to be black with sludge? The filter itself appears black, is the normal color supposed to be white when new? Lastly, one of the enclosed pics is of a white round plastic ring which was on the neck of the filter that attaches to the transmission. Is this the o-ring? I was expecting something rubber for an o-ring, but found nothing on the filter or left behind on the transmission resembling an o-ring. Thanks in advance. I already plan on replacing the filter and trans fluid that came out during removal. Please advise.

Here’s the pics. Another thing, do you know the torque for the pan bolts when I reinstall?

Hi,

That is all dirt from clutch plates and old transmission fluid. When I clean these, I first wipe it out with a shop rag and then use brake cleaner.

Next, yes that is the o-ring. When I replace them, first make sure where it is positioned in the transmission is clean. Next, I lubricate it with transmission fluid and install it fully in the transmission first. Then, I lubricate the filter (where it goes into the o-ring) and with the palm of my hand, I bump it into place. Make sure it is fully seated.

Also, you asked about the sludge on the filter. No, that shouldn't be there. The fluid is very dirty and there is a chance what I originally mentioned (the filter plugging) could be the problem. I just hope there isn't too much damage to the clutch plates.

Let me know how things work out for you or if you have questions.

Take care,

Joe

Okay, you may have missed this question. Do you happen to know the torque for the pan bolts?

Hi,

They were in the directions above. Tighten them to 8 foot/lbs or 97 inch/lbs which is the same torque.

Let me know how things work out.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Okay, sorry it took a while for me to get back to this. This car is a project and sometimes other things take priority, lol! Anyways, the filter and fluid changed. The car now drives around my property at will. I took it on the road for a block or two, mind you, I have no plates and the title still isn’t in my name, but I didn’t like the way it was shifting. Seemed clunky at times. It appears the fluid and filter were the main culprit, but now I’m afraid the damage has already been done to the clutch plates. Is it possible, as the car is used more, mind you, it has sat for a year on my property and at least as long on the person I obtained it from property, that the shifting will become smoother?

Hi,

If it sat for some time, it is very possible that everything will start to loosen up and work better. Keep in mind, things that should be lubricated sat dry for an extended period.

Let me know.

Joe

Everything works fine now. Took the car out on the road to perform an “Italian tune up”. Thanks for your help.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. I'm glad to hear it's working normally now. What is an Italian tune-up? Both of my parents immigrated from Italy in the 50's. LOL I want to know how it's done. Also, is the a flat rate time I can charge for it? LOL

Take care of yourself and feel free to come back anytime in the future.

Joe

I had never heard of the term until recently. My son dropped it on me. Apparently, it’s an actual thing with a Wikipedia description, lol
Italian tune-up is a slang automotive term for attempting to restore engine performance by driving a car at high engine speed (RPM) and load.

The term originated from Italian mechanics in the 1950s using this practice to burn off carbon deposits from the spark plugs of sports cars.[1][2] However, modern direct injection and port injected engines and electronic ignition systems have rendered Italian tune-ups obsolete for that particular purpose.
You learn something new every day, lol! I guess you can charge whatever you want for it, lol

That is great. I remember my father running the heck out of his cars when they ran rough. Now I know why. LOL

Take care of yourself,

Joe