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Will not shift?

Tiny
JAMES L. TIMMS
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
With overdrive off it will not shift out of second gear? With overdrive on it will go to a neutral position instead of shifting into third gear?
Thursday, March 8th, 2018 AT 5:05 PM

34 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, this sounds like either the valve body has sticking valves or there is a failure in the clutches inside the transmission itself.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

I would start by changing the fluid and filter and pay attention to the pan and see if there is any debris in the pan or on the magnet itself. If there is, there is a good chance there is an internal failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

If there is not, good chance it is the valve body.

Please let me know if there are any codes set in the system.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Roy
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 6:37 AM
Tiny
CONRADISH006
  • MEMBER
  • 53 POSTS
  • 2002 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
4r70w stuck in second.

I was driving the truck down the road when it randomly got stuck in second. When I started from a stop it would not shift into first, I did not want to force it into first so I drove it home and parked it. When I scanned the computer, the codes were: P0750 shift solenoid A, P0755 shift solenoid B, P0743 torque converter clutch circuit electrical, and the overdrive light was flashing. I checked the fluid which was replaced at 100,000 by the last owner, and it was pink and full.

I've been searching desperately for answers as this is my daily driver, and I appreciate any help.

Thanks!
Conrad
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,465 POSTS
Your description sounds like it is stuck in limp mode. That will make it operate in 2nd gear and not shift. The codes support that as they will cause limp mode. First thing you can try is to disconnect the battery and let it set for 5 minutes or so. Reconnect and see if it now shifts like it should. The cause is likely a bad connection at the transmission wiring connector, fairly common as the connector corrodes internally and the transmission doesn't know what to do. To check it is simple, go under the truck and unplug the connector and inspect it for corrosion or the harness for damage. If the connector is corroded spray some contact cleaner into both halves and plug it in out a couple times. Then apply a thin coat of dielectric grease and reconnect and see if you cured it.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAD WINBERRY
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • 2001 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 514,700 MILES
Moves in and out of 1st gear then finally stays. Same with reverse Shifts fine once it stays in gear.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Good afternoon,

This sounds like you either have low fluid level or the filter is clogged.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

I would drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. In most cases, it is nothing more than a clogged filter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-service-an-automatic-transmission

Roy
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAD WINBERRY
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I put new filter and fluid in 35,000 miles ago. Help
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Does not matter at all.

I would drop the pan and change the fluid and filter.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAD WINBERRY
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Okay Roy,
I put new filter and fluid in.
Old fluid looked clean as did filter.
Didn’t take as long shift and stay in gear but keeps moving in and out of gear for first couple miles driving after that it locks in and shifts great.
Any ideas?
Thanks again.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, then it sounds like the seals in the transmission. It could be the forward clutch piston seals. They may be hard and need time to soften up.

The transmission would have to be removed to gain access to these seals. It most likely will result in a rebuild or replacement of the transmission.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/transmission-replacement-removal-manual

Roy
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAD WINBERRY
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  • 7 POSTS
Oh man. Okay, thanks.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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You are welcome.

Always glad to help.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GIBSONT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 112,000 MILES
When my engine is cold the shift from 2nd to 3rd is very rough and sometime my speed is as high as 40 mph before the shift. I have had my trans fluid sucked out but did not change the filter. I also have had 2 speed sensors installed at the local dealership. The longer my drive is the better the shifting gets. When I first drive in the morning the shift from 2nd to 3rd is very rough but smooths out after this. Any ideas before I go a transmission shop?
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Sounds like a sticky valve/ shift solenoid or accumualtor. As it gets hot the fluid thins and all parts grow up (expand) and it works better. The will be able to scan the PCM and monitor pressures to see what it is.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAD WINBERRY
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Hey Roy,

I have a 2001 F150 Lariat 5.4 w/4wd.
Also have a 2002 same truck exactly.
Can I drop transmission and transfer case at same time using a trolley system for both with secure attachment for both transmission and transfer case on my jacks.
I have both totally exposed and ready to be removed.
Any info you have will be extremely appreciated.
Thanks Roy.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAD WINBERRY
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I can cut my cost for re-install by $400.00 if this is possible.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Yes, you can. I used to do it that way and I used 2 floor jacks to drop the unit all in one.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAD WINBERRY
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Thanks Roy.

Does transmission and transfer case use same fluid or are they different?
Thanks again.
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, I attached the fluid requirements for you below for both the transmission and the transfer case.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYDIOED
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 FORD F-150
  • 5.4L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
Shifts from 1st to 2nd gears fine. When going into 3rd its like neutral end of any pulling period. Have 1st 2nd and reverse only. No 3rd and overdrive. Don't know about 4x4 portion of it have not tested it.
5.4 engine runs fine. When trouble appeared. On the way home driving 40 mph passed a car and hit passing gear not meaning to, but immediately afterwards it stopped pulling and I parked it and sat there until I got it towed 12 miles at 45 mph all wheels on ground in neutral. Blew front seal at some point leaked lots of fluid not sure when seal blew but was not leaking before this incident. I did slide trans back far enough to replace seal only bushing seemed okay somebody replaced it before I bought truck. Topped fluid off.
Thank you,
Bob
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Wednesday, March 24th, 2021 AT 1:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
This sounds like an issue in the valve-body. The shift solenoid are inside the valve body that control each shift and a separate solenoid for overdrive.

I attached the process on how to replace this. I would suggest taking the valve body apart and inspecting it but the solenoids are only around $20.00 so I would just replace that and then put the valve body back together.

The solenoids control where the fluid pressure goes to determine what shift will happen. If the solenoid has failed it will not shift. However, your vehicle has one solenoid with two coils inside. So you would need to test each separately but with this being such a common unit, the components are pretty cheap so I would just go ahead and replace it.

Please reach out with questions. Thanks
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