Transmission shifting problems?

Has the check engine light come on? Also, as far as the trans, it may be a shift solenoid. Let me know about the light. These guides can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.

Anything I say without a code is a guess. You need to get it scanned before the light goes out. However, I'm surprised the code wasn's stored in the computer.

I would say the TPS. But I hate to see you spend money and not be right.

Yes. This could either so the only way to know is to run through this testing. It is unlikely that you got a faulty part but the fact that you have a new code after you replaced it, I would just go ahead and see if they would warranty the solenoid. As long as you bought it from a parts store they should take it back with no issues.

Otherwise we need to go through this testing and find out what the issue is.

Good evening,

I attached a wiring diagram for you to view.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Verify power to the solenoid in the flow chart that was posted to be sure there is power for it to work.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Roy

A shuddering torque converter is usually caused by using the wrong transmission fluid that does not have enough of a specific additive. To verify that, first be aware the shudder usually only occurs during initial lockup, although my daily driver does it continually, once warmed up, at around 35 mph. You will not feel the shudder below about 30 mph, not unless the transmission is in the highest gears, and not until the engine is warmed up. You should also not feel it at speeds higher than about 50 mph.

When you feel the shudder, hold the accelerator pedal perfectly steady, then lightly tap the brake pedal with your left foot. Doing that initiates an unlock and the shudder will stop for two or three seconds.

A failing torque converter can cause the same symptom, but it is very much less common than using the wrong fluid. A failing torque converter will typically cause shuddering at higher speeds too.

I have never heard of the wrong fluid type causing the shift timing problem, or failure to shift. Your transmission doesn't use a modulator valve. It is computer-controlled. There is really very little you can do unless you have access to a scanner. The place to start is by reading and recording any diagnostic fault codes. If you find any that are related to the range sensor, (formerly the neutral safety switch), those must be addressed first. Incorrect readings from that sensor will cause the computer to be confused and will likely prevent proper operation. Once the range sensor is verified to be working properly, if the shifting problem is still there, you need the scanner to perform tests on the shift solenoids. That can tell you right away if there is an electrical problem, as in a cut wire or corroded connector terminal. That will also tell you during a test drive if there is a mechanical problem associated with one of the solenoids. That would be seen by the a change in which solenoids are being commanded on but no gear change occurs.

Given the intermittent nature of the problem, you might want to inspect the connector terminals for the range switch first. It is located by the shift lever on the side of the transmission.

It could be just a shift solenoid, but if the OD light is flashing, you need to have the computer scanned. There will be a code that identifies where the problem is coming from.

Let me know what you find.
Joe

Isn't that interesting how they can quote a price and not know what is wrong with it. Let me know what you find.