My car won't start

The Cressida was only produced until 1993, and only produced with a 4 cylinder motor in the late 70's in New Zealand. You may receive better advice if you post in the proper area.

I was driving my car and all of a sudden it just cut off
and now it won't start. Any idea's?

The car turns over but will not start. Have checked the plugs, wiring, vaccume lines, what s wrong?

The car stopped working on my way home one day. Got a boost to get home. The battery is new and was charged so I changed the alternator but after retrying to start it with fully charged battery the enginge won't turn over could it be the starter. Fuses appear fine voltage at the battery was 12.4v. If so where what part of the car is the starter located.

REPLY: That exact same thing happen to my Cressida. The Starter is under the car to the right when you are facing it. I can only get one bolt out the second bolt is in the worst place possibly.

I have a 1989 Toyota Cressida that is recently having starting problems. It has 145,000 miles. A couple of days ago, if you pushed the gas pedal, the car would move forward but it seemed as though it was missing, then it would smooth out but it would run rough again in the next gear until the rpms would increase. Then today, the car just wouldn't start. It cranks over but it seems to almost recoil alittle bit. I am totally baffled. Someone said that it the throttle position something? Please help.

I have a 1985 Toyota Cressida that hasn't been started in almost 2 years. It has a straight 6 and 206,000 Miles. I have free air flow and fuel at the rail. I checked and foound that there is spark although maybe weak. I have replaced the fuel pump and the coil/condenser. I checked the timing belt and it seems fine and in time. What can I do now? Thanks.

Terry

I have a 1988 toyota cressida GLI6 that was stationary for about 2 years & has done about 200000km. It had had no problem problem starting and was in running condition when it was parked. But now it just doesn't want to start. Everything seems & sounds alright (there's petrol by the injectors, changed the battery, checked the plugs, makes the rite & promising sounds) but it just won't start.

It's an '83 Toyota Cressida inline 6 with 225k miles. A couple of days ago car went dead silent while driving. Suspected to be out of fuel (coming very close. Fuel guage is misleading so I guess-timate from miles driven). Added more fuel. Cranks but no start. Battery OK (recharged after cranking many times), sparks at all plugs, fuel pump is working, no air/vacuum leaks (visibly). After doing the above, car started for a few seconds then died. Now it is back to the original state. No start. But will crank. Starter is fine (solenoid is attached. Pretty sure it is also good). I believe all components of the ignition system is okay. Any suggestions? Thank you so much for your time and response.

I disregarded the distributor and rotor when I performed the modified spark test where I ground the plug and crank the engine. The results were all six plugs fired. Is it conclusive enough to say it is ok?

Thanks rasmataz for the quick and helpful response!

The engine type is 5M-GE and the color of the spark was bluish (had white color to it. Sure it is more blue than orange).

When I pulled the plugs (all of them) to test them for sparks I took a look at the piston heads. From what I can see and touch with my screwdriver, there is carbon buildup. No signs of coolant.

Here is something I found: After drying out plugs and chamber overnight from excess gas. Put them back in. Crank. Car started for few seconds and then shuts off. I then cranked the engine and stepped on the gas peddle and the car kicked over but ran rough until I let go the peddle (then it shuts off). White smoke was coming out of the tailpipe. I could smell the gas also. Now the car is back to original state again. Just cranking. I think the the fuel is going to keep on injecting no matter if the car starts or not. Now it probably is filled with excess gas again.

I need to check for the jumped timing like you mentioned because that could be a significant factor. To do it, do I turn the engine manually and set the 1st piston to the top where the pressure (air) releases and then check to see the location of the rotor?

I am going to check the compression today and leave the fuel pressure out for now as I don't have the tool for it. That way, I would be able to eliminate the culprit down to a bad engine (whether it be of piston or valves), bad computer (since it is an electronic fuel injection system), injectors not closing a valve or something, or bad fuel pump.