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High beams issue!

Tiny
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Tailights have always worked. The side or parking lights and dome light are also working now.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 5:56 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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Hey Mike.

sorry park/side ... are they working because you jumped them .. or because you replaced the INT relay ??

On my wiring diagram ..I have a WHITE wire and a BLACK/WHITE wire going from ignition switch to the connector I mentioned in my last post .. is this the same on the vehicle ?? if different what colors do you have and how many wires from IGN switch to junction block

let me know


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_AAA2_276.png

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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 6:04 PM
Tiny
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I was hoping you wouldn't ask because although I checked all the other bulbs I didn't check the parking light bulbs. So guess what, they were both bad so I replaced them and they both worked. As to the ign. Wires, from what I can see there are 6 wires coming out of the ign. Black/yellow, black/red, black/ white, blue, tan, & tan/red. They all seem to go to the back of the fuse box under the dash. I can't tell whether they come back to the steering column or not. The wires on the steering column are about half the size of the ones from the ign. But there are 2 smaller white/black on the connecter. Do you want to know all the color wires coming into the conecter.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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OK. It seems we have discrepency in the wire colors again. While I am checking the wiring diagrams. Could you go out and start the car. And waggle/jiggle/play around with by hand the connector (the one in the photo) see if this makes the car stop?

Also do the wires from the ignition go through this connector (on photo) before going to the fusebox?

On the ignition switch what color are the wires on # 4 pin and # 7 pin

Thanks, let me know
Dave H
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 6:38 PM
Tiny
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I started car and wiggled, jiggled, and even jostled and couldn't make it cut off.I really can't see what pins are attached to what wires, there's like a rubber cover over them.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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Mike.

Sorry i should have included this for you


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_iggy_4.jpg


Also do these wire go through the connector you have just wiggled ... ??

Also .. I am not showing anywhere a factory fit alarm/immobolizer ..for the camry models in this year or year before and after .. I think it may be an aftermarket system .. it should be showing on my diagrams !! ... can you see under the hood the alarm unit/siren ??

I realise it is getting late .. so if you want to carry this on tommorrow ... that's fine ...

let me know


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_AAA2_277.png

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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
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There's nothing under the hood it's all up under the dash. And it doesn't have a siren it uses the horn. I wish I could just take the alarm off. Why do they change color of the wires from one side of the connecters to the other side?I know this sounds crazy but # 7 is a blank hole (no wire) and #4 has a green wire. I know what your thinking where did that green wire come from, it came down beside the ign. Switch and joined the wire bundle. And yes tomorrow sounds good.
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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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OK Mike.

Speak tommorrow .. I'm sure james will have some input as well ... he is having computer problems .. hopefully they will be sorted out tommorrow ..

One point for tonight .. the plug connector diagram in my last post was for the actual ignition switch .. is this the one that has no wire in #7 and a green in #4 .. let me know tommorrow

Thanks


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_stpats_6.jpg

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Tuesday, March 17th, 2009 AT 7:28 PM
Tiny
DAVE H
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Good Morning Mike.

OK. First thing we need to know is ... are ALL the prior faults now working correctly (ie.)

Headlight's working correctly ??
Tail light's working correctly ??
Side light's working correctly ??

The INT relay was replaced but you still needed to have the jumpers that james asked you to install ... the INT relay was not the fault the wiring on #3 H/L relay to #13 H/L switch was the fault and now it is jumped everything is working correctly ...??

Are we (me and James)correct in thinking this way ??

Let us know.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_AAA2_283.png

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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 7:05 AM
Tiny
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Yes everythings working except it bugs me not knowing what the problem was. As to my alarm system, I know it's factory because there is a factory installed red light to the left of the steering wheel in the dash.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 7:15 AM
Tiny
DAVE H
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Mike.

Can I start out by saying, It bugs me and James as well .. but it must be a break in a wire somewhere .. James and I discussed this and we do not like altering OEM fittings .. but I think in this case we had no other option !!

The Factory Fit Alarm .. would actually show on our wiring diagrams .. so Either it was only an optional addition, which usually shows on our wiring diagrams also .. or it is an aftermarket fit ? they could still fit an alarm warning light !! now that said the only way to really check if it is factory fit is to contact a dealer and ask them to check if they fitted alarms to models in that year ??

Firstly .. have you tried the car this morning and is it acting the same .. or is it running correctly and is the battery fully charged ?

OK. I need to know DO the wires FROM this plug/connector on the IGN SWITCH


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_iggy_5.jpg



Go through this connector/junction block ?


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_iggy2_1.jpg



Or do they go straight to the fuse box ?

Let me know ?
Dave H
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 8:26 AM
Tiny
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I went out and started the car this morning and it started right up then after about 10 secs. It shut off I tried to start it again and it took about 3or 4 tries then it started again and ran for about 30 secs. I tried starting it again and again it took about 3 or 4 tries and I uped the rpm to about 2000 and it ran a liittle under a min. Then shut off. I tried restarting and after 3 or 4 tries it again started and ran for a couple of mins. And tried to die but I pumpedn the accelerater and kept it running. Now that the temp is normal it runs continous and I can shut it off and start it back up in 1 try. All the time I was doing this the alarm red light was on and staring me in the face. To answer your Question the wires from the ign plug do not run go thru the Connecter J/B on the steering column. They go to the fuse box on the left side of dash.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 9:19 AM
Tiny
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I called the toyota parts place this morning and gave them the vin# and he told me that it was not a factory alarm.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
DAVE H
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I was half way through typing a reply saying I personally did not think it was factory fit and was there any reference to it in your haynes manual? So that puts that to rest?

The problems you are experiencing could be down to cold start issues? And not the alarm/immobolizer? Your thought's
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
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It seems like something wants to shut down the engine when it's cold kinda like a sensor or something. I had a certified mech. Put a code reader on about a month ago and he replaced the coolant temp. Sensor. Thats the only thing that showed up on his reader. And I also put a new computer. I keep thinking it's in the alarm because of the way it shuts down so suddenly and won't restart right away.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 10:46 AM
Tiny
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What I think I'm going to do is have the toyota place order me a new remote for the alarm.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 10:54 AM
Tiny
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I'll talk to you guys later I've got to go take my 2 great grandsons to Chuck E. Cheese for the next 3 hrs or so.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 11:08 AM
Tiny
DAVE H
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Ok If you have an OHMS meter you could check the IAT sensor is working correctly ..

Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Intake air temperature sensor is mounted in either airflow meter or air filter housing. Intake air temperature sensor measures incoming intake air temperature and delivers an input signal to THA terminal of Engine Control Module (ECM) for controlling fuel injection system, fuel pressure control (if equipped) and heated oxygen sensor systems (if equipped).

Idle Speed Control System
Engine Control Module (ECM) is programmed with engine idle speed values. Idle air control system provides a stable idle speed when engine is cold and idle speed decreases due to electrical load. The Engine Control Module (ECM) uses various input signals to maintain proper idle speed by controlling Idle Air Control (IAC) valve located on air intake system.

INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE (IAT) SENSOR
Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect electrical connector from intake air temperature sensor. Intake air temperature sensor is located in air intake, near air filter.
NOTE:Intake air temperature sensor may be also identified using appropriate illustration in the THEORY/OPERATION - 2.2L article.

Remove intake air temperature sensor. Place threaded end of intake air temperature sensor and thermometer in container of water. Attach ohmmeter between intake air temperature sensor electrical terminals.
Heat water and note that resistance is within specification in relation to temperature. See Fig. 3. Replace intake air temperature sensor if defective.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_camry3_1.jpg



let me know !


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/266999_AAA2_285.png

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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
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I took the IAT sensor off and performed the test and the sensor read 19 olms @ 212 degrees. I think that it's ok.
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Wednesday, March 18th, 2009 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
JAMES W.
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Mike, just checking to see where we're at.
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Thursday, March 19th, 2009 AT 2:00 AM

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