Ticking/rattling noise under hood after acceleration stopped?

Thank you, Ken. The video can be played without downloading it. Just click the smaller image at that link, the one that has the icon of a movie camera. It will play right in your window like a YouTube video. (Ignore the large "download" button and go straight to click on the small image.) The file size is over 30 MB, so it is too large for me to upload.

The car engine cranks. And I moved the car (forward and reverse along my driveway). The battery is 3 years old. I will try your suggestion to see if the battery drains if I leave the headlights on for 10 minutes. (I took the slow charge off the battery three days ago / Friday night. Only had it on for about 6 hours.)

I was able to get the videos to upload directly from my phone. The 12 sec one was taken four days after the initial failure. It sounds quieter than it did on day two in the 29 sec video.

Having a little bit of a snowstorm here in MN. I will try to get a video of under the hood tomorrow. Thank you.

Hi Ken,

Attached is a minute and a half video of under the hood while the car is running.

The car sat for three days under a mound of snow. I turned it on and about a minute or two later it shut off. Tried it again and it turned on but died right away.

So, I connected the slow charger and without waiting, turned it on again and it started right away. I then took this video.

I let the car continue to run another 15 minutes or so and the noise continued.

I seem to hear the noise mostly on my left while looking at the engine. You can tell that a little from the video as I move around.

Could this all be an alternator issue?

To recap from earlier, I had an oil change about three days before this noise started. The oil is still full (actually a little over the full line). After the oil change, I had only driven it less than 10 miles before the day it failed. The day it failed I drove it for about 60 miles on the highway when the noise started, and the car stalled out and wouldn’t restart.

So, I can’t help but wonder if the rapid oil change outlet made some mistake. Did they not reconnect the filter properly or something? Is oil maybe not getting to the engine? The oil change was right before Thanksgiving, and they were really crowded, and they had me in and out in less time than usual. I remember commenting on that at the time (I was out in about 15 minutes, including paying, vs about 20-25 usual time).

I wiped the oil on a cloth, and I thought maybe it didn’t look as clean as it should have for a recent change. But it wasn’t that dirty either.

As the earlier video I uploaded the other day shows, there are no concerning lights that are on while the engine is running.

Also, I did not try stepping on the gas this last time. But earlier in the week, the car did move when I drove it up and down my driveway.

Thanks

I couldn’t get anyone to come out today to change my oil at home. Is it safe to drive 2 to 3 miles to my nearest service place that can do it?

I did get a delivery from Amazon for a diagnostic code reader. Three images attached. P0420 is the only error code about the catalytic converter. But I would doubt the cat is causing the issue.

Thanks

Attached is a video of the sound when I rev and don’t rev the engine. Sound definitely increases when the gas is pressed. Also, when not pressed the sound seems softer than it did on day 1 and 2.

I do have an auto stethoscope (thanks to Amazon same day delivery). Can’t say that it sounded too different on the left vs right of the car. At times it sounded like a low bear growl or snore (not that I really know what bears sound like) and at times it sounded like water gurgling. (I really have no idea)

I am not skilled to change my own oil or serpentine belt. I called a local auto shop and asked if it were the timing chain how much would the repair cost and they said around $2,000. Does that sound about right?

It is a 2012 with 167,000 miles. The cost is cheaper than buying a new used car, but can’t say that if I fixed it I would ever trust driving it out of state again (400-500 miles one way). Or would the fix make it good enough for that?

Thanks for all the help. I like having possibilities narrowed before taking it in to a shop.

Thank you. I just googled the recall. It seems notifications went out Jan. 2021. I was already over the 150,000 mileage by then given the car had barely moved during the pandemic.

I did have it towed to a nearby auto shop this morning (not a dealer) and they confirmed it was not the serpentine belt or timing chain and was likely a rod issue. They said $7k-$8k for a new used engine that has around 50k miles. ($150 for the diagnostic and used up my tow).

If a dealer would be less, around $2k, I'd consider it. (I'd have to pay to tow with the next move, as well.)

If more than $2k is the cost, then I guess it is time for me to buy a new (used) car. I'll take recommendations for anything 2016 or newer that doesn't have engine recalls. (Happy to start a new thread if that's something you all can recommend.)

Thanks so much for all the help. I've learned a lot in this process.

Okay. Worth a try to contact the manufacturer. I'll let you know if they bite.

Good news Joe! I used the url below to Hyundai's recall site and contacted Hyundai. They are going to give me all three open recalls, which includes the rod bearing/ engine issue. I have attached the recall campaigns that populated at this url per my VIN:

https://autoservice.hyundaiusa.com/campaignHome

They scheduled my appointment with a local dealer for Dec. 16. I asked twice if I am completely covered given, I am beyond my warranty and given the number of miles on the car and she confirmed, no charge because it's not my fault. I never went into any detail about any issues I have seen.

Thank you all so much! I'll try to update you again after Dec. 16.

As an update, I just heard today from the services department at the Hyundai dealer that they received final approval from the manufacturer and will begin the repair work on the engine. No charge to me (though they told me it is about $7,000 worth of work). Presumably OEM parts, which I hope would mean my engine would be like new vs like one that has 167,000 miles on it. Thanks again for this idea. I'll check back in once I receive the car back from them. They said it could still take a couple weeks.