No starter operation engine is not cranking over?

Tiny
IAN0555
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 3,000 MILES
There was some difficulty to change transmission to Reverse. Then finally, engine wont start. With No dtc warning lights. Thank you.
Friday, February 17th, 2012 AT 6:58 AM

20 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
It sounds like the battery is no good. These guides can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Monday, June 1st, 2020 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
JMOORE93084
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2011 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Car wouldn't start, even after trying to jump it. Took the battery to AutoZone, and was told needed new one. Bought new battery, installed and still wont start. Tested voltage and am getting 12.4v between terminals. Saw a couple videos that said it might be starter but after dropping $100.00 already I don't want to just randomly change parts that might not even fix it. Could you point me in the right direction, or tell me how to test before hand what it might be? Thank you in advance!
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello, I'm Danny.

Yes, if you are hearing a click sound from under the hood with a no start condition it sounds like the starter motor solenoid may be defective. If you take the starter to your local auto parts store they will test for free. Here is a tutorial showing what is involved:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-starter-and-solenoid-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

Let me know if you have any other questions.Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, it could be a few things. Since you hear a clicking from the fuse box, It's unlikely that it's a fuse, but lets confirm that. Under the hood in the fuse box, locate the 40 amp ign2 fuse. That is the fuse that sends power to the starter relay. See pictures 1 and 2

If the fuse is good, we need to check the starter relay. It is located under the hood in the power distribution box. See pic 3. If you see a different relay in the box with the same part number, switch them to see if it makes a difference. If not, here is a link that explains how to test one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Here are a few additional links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

_________________________

If you find the relay is good, then we need to check the starter. It isn't hard, but will require a test light or voltmeter to check.

On the starter, you will find a large wire that runs direct from the battery positive. It will always have battery voltage. There will be a smaller wire that is on the solenoid S terminal. The smaller wire only gets power when the key is in the start position. That is what needs checked, so you will need a helper to turn the key while you check. If you find there is 12v to the S terminal (smaller wire) and the larger wire is connected to the battery and the starter doesn't engage, the starter is bad.

Here is a link that shows how this is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

If you find the starter to be bad, here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for starter replacement. Remember, the battery must be disconnected prior to working on the starter.
Removal

Pic 4

Starter
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable.
2. Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B terminal (B) on the solenoid (C), then disconnect the connector (D) from the S terminal (E).

pic 5

3. Remove the 2 bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.

Tightening torque :
49.0 - 63.7N.m (5.0 - 6.5kgf.m, 36.2 - 47.0lb-ft)

4. Installation is the reverse of removal.
5. Connect the battery negative cable to the battery.

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

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+2
Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MELINDA FOOTE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2010 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.4L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I boosted my husbands truck and soon as I got the cables in my car shut down and will not start or crank.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
Make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. If there is any greenish/whitish gunk on or around the terminals, disconnect the cable from the battery and clean it off. Then reconnect the cable and make it tight enough that you cannot move the cable by hand.

Also, It is possible that a system somehow got overloaded and you blew a fuse. There is a fuse box under the hood (might be labeled "power distribution center" or something to that effect). Pull and check every single fuse in there. I am attaching an image that shows a picture of a blown fuse so you'll know what to look for. Check every fuse in there. And there is another fuse box inside of the car. Look up its exact location in your owner's manual and check every fuse in there.

Let us know what you find and we'll go from there.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 2005 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 80,000 MILES
My santa fe will not start every morning. It has a new battery. When I put a voltage meter onthe battery terminals the voltage will continue to drop while the car is turned off.I can then put a battery charger on and in ten minutes I can start the car.I do only drive this car for short mileage. Can you help me?
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Something is not turning off and draining the battery or the battery is bad. New batteries could be bad as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-dead-overnight

Check above link for more information.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PLUXO
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
  • 2004 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 197,757 MILES
I had issues yesterday driving. Battery light and brake light came on again for the fifteenth time. Suddenly my power started to get cut to everything. When I turned my blinkers on, all my gauges would stop working. Parked it and now it won't turn over or start. Here is a video.

Known issues: a worn engine bearing.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

It sounds like a very weak battery. Since the alternator light was coming on, the alt may be bad and has allowed the battery to get this weak. Here is a link that explains how to load test a battery:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Now, I first suggest trying to recharge the battery. Most nationally recognized parts stores will charge it and then load test it for free. If you have a charger, do that first. I feel once the battery is charged, it will start. If you need to remove the battery to take it to a parts store, here is a general link that shows how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Also, here is a general link explaining how to charge the battery:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-charge-your-car-battery

Next, once it is running again, we need to check a if the alternator is doing its job. Here is a link that explains how it's done. It is very easy to do.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

It will require a simple volt meter or multi meter. Here is a link which shows how to use one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Here is what you should find. With the engine off and all accessories off, the battery should produce 12+ volts. For example, 12.4v. Start by testing battery voltage first. Next, start the engine. Recheck the battery voltage. It should be near 14v. If voltage doesn't change, replace the alternator.

Here is a link that shows how in general one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

_____________________________

Before you replace the alternator, confirm that the alternator belt is tight. Here are specific directions for belt adjustment on your vehicle. See picture 1

ADJUSTING ALTERNATOR BELT
Adjusting The Alternator Belt

Caution: If the belt is too loose, it will cause noise or sudden wear. If the belt is too tight, the engine coolant pump bearing or the alternator can be damaged.

picture 1

1. Loosen the alternator nut "A" and the tension adjuster lock bolt "B".
2. Using the tension adjuster bolt, adjust the belt tension to the specification.
3. Tighten the adjuster lock bolt "B".
4. Tighten the alternator nut "A".
5. Check the tension or the deflection of belt, and read just if necessary.
Tightening torque
Alternator nut A: 35 - 55 Nm (350 - 550 kg.cm, 25 - 40 ft. lbs.)
Adjuster lock bolt B: 20 - 25 Nm (200 - 250 kg.cm, 14 - 18 ft. lbs.)

______________________________

Next, picture 2 shows the directions for replacement of the alternator in your vehicle. Please keep in mind, once you remove it, have it bench tested at a parts store to confirm that is the issue. They will most likely do it for free. Also, do not remove the alternator before first disconnecting the battery.

____________________________

Based on your description of what happened with the battery light, the alternator is my first suspect. However, I always check the things I mentioned before replacement.
It may not be keeping the battery charged and allowed it to slowly die. The noise I heard in your video sounds like a weak battery.

If you need help or have other questions, please feel free to let me know. Also, let me know what you find.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PLUXO
  • MEMBER
  • 71 POSTS
Hey! Sorry I forgot to update. Mechanic looked at it. Alternator is bad. $684.00 for him to test alternator and battery, along with replacing the alternator. I am sure my mechanic would have been a lot cheaper but the tow would not go that far.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,885 POSTS
Welcome back:

No problem. If it hasn't been replaced yet, you can get the alt for around $100.00. It would save you a lot of money.

Regardless, I had a feeling that was the problem. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DWIGHT1958
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2004 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 193,000 MILES
Car will not spark or start. Gauges go crazy, fuel pump will not kick on.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
We need to do two things to start. First, check for codes to see if we have anything pointing us in the correct direction. Next test the battery voltage because that will cause the gauges to act erratic. This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Please run down these guides and report back.

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DARWINSTI
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
  • 2003 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 164,211 MILES
It picks and chooses. Sometimes it turns over and I have no issues, sometimes all I get is the dash lights and door buzzer as if nothing is wrong and then I go to turn the key the final turn to actually turn the motor to start, and. Nothing but a few click sounds under the glove box? Its puzzling me. Ive had many vehicles with many issues, and usually I would check the relay, but thats under the hood, and I hear clicking under my glove box?
Any help is greatly appreciated as I had put it for sale this week and now this pops up. I have to get it fixed asap before I sell it.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check battery for condition including load test first. Then check for a bad starter.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DARWINSTI
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Um, it isn't the battery as it has a full charge, im thinking its the ignition as it works when it wants to?
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Well if you don't know the condition of the battery to begin with it can cause a problem as well as a starter relay going bad or corrosion on the prongs as well as a starter or even dirty battery cables
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DARWINSTI
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
Thanks for the guide I found out is was the starter. I love this site!
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:35 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 10:35 AM (Merged)

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