When I push the clutch in, the noise stops

Good afternoon,

From your description, it sounds like the throw-out bearing in the clutch has failed. You stop the noise when pressed on the clutch but when you let it out, it makes noise.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-clutch

The clutch will have to be replaced.

I attached a YouTube video of how to replace a clutch. It is very similar to your truck.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpzefqEeVGE

Roy

1. Remove clutch slave cylinder.
2. Remove transmission.
3. On models not equipped with a clutch housing dust cover, remove starter motor and clutch housing.
4. On models equipped with a clutch housing dust cover, remove dust cover and the release lever from housing.
5. On all models, mark clutch assembly and flywheel for assembly reference.
6. Remove pressure plate and cover assembly and the clutch disc from flywheel. Loosen attaching bolts evenly to relieve spring tension without distorting cover.
7. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Apply a light coat of suitable lithium base grease to release lever fingers and lever trunnion, fulcrum or pivot ball. Do not grease the release lever pivot assembly on Econoline models.
b. Fill release bearing hub annular groove with suitable grease.
c. If service is necessary to the slave cylinder, care must be taken during installation to ensure both tabs on the spring clip are properly seated into place on the flywheel housing. Incorrectly seated clips could work loose from the housing and cause the slave cylinder to become disengaged, resulting in an inoperative clutch system and potential damage to the slave cylinder internal components.

Transmission removal

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery ground cable and shift transmission into Neutral position, then remove ball from shift lever.
2. Remove floor mat or carpet, then the shift boot and bezel assembly from transmission opening cover.
3. On models with ZF transmission, remove upper portion of shift lever, then the four capscrews from shift control housing and separate entire shifter assembly from transmission.
4. On all models, raise and support vehicle, then remove drain plug and drain oil from transmission.
5. On models with ZF transmission and IDI turbo diesel engine, proceed as follows:
a. Loosen marman clamp at wastegate housing exhaust outlet, then remove bolt retaining engine charge exhaust pipe to transmission housing.
b. Remove nuts retaining exhaust extension pipe to muffler and pipe assembly, then remove charge exhaust pipe and extension pipe.
6. On 4WD models, remove transfer case.
7. On all models, disconnect speedometer cable and back-up lamp switch electrical connector.
8. Support transmission with a suitable transmission jack.
9. Disconnect driveshaft and clutch linkage or hydraulic hose from transmission and wire to one side.
10. On all models, remove transmission rear insulator and lower retainer, then remove crossmember.
11. Remove transmission attaching bolts, then slide transmission rearward and lower from vehicle.

INSTALLATION
1. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Torque transmission to engine block bolts to 40-50 ft lbs.
b. Torque insulator bolts and nut to 60-80 ft lbs.
c. When battery has been disconnected and then reconnected, abnormal drive symptoms may occur for 10 or more miles due to Powertrain Control Module (PCM) reset.

Yep, noises travel all over the powertrain form the metal involved.

The fact it goes away with the clutch pedal is the clue that points right at the throw out bearing.

Roy