Engine will not stay running?

Hi,

Have you checked to make sure the fuel pressure regulator is working properly? Also, if you disconnect the vacuum hose to it, is there fuel in the hose, and does the hose have a vacuum when cranking the engine? (See pic 1 below)

The regulator is at the end of the fuel rail. Check the aforementioned things first. Also, make sure the fuel return isn't clogged.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Is the exhaust smoke black or dark gray? Also, believe it or not, the fuel pressure is low (see pic below), which leads me to one thing. A sticking injector or injectors.

When you checked fuel pressure and the key was turned off, did the pressure drop quickly? If we have an injector stuck or leaking, that will cause lower pressure and flooding.

Let me know. Also, let me know if you have a live data scan tool. If you do, tell me what the short-term fuel trims are.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

The dark gray smoke does usually indicate a rich fuel mixture. Also, the fuel gauge is likely correct. How long did you wait to see if the pressure would drop after turning the key off?

Also, did this issue just start after the engine repairs? If it did, it is most likely related to the injectors. I'm sorry to ask, but is it possible to get your hands on a live data scan tool? I don't mean to purchase one but to borrow one.

The issue could even be the engine coolant temperature sensor. Check to make sure the wire to the sensor isn't pinched or damaged and shorting. If the ECM thinks it is neg 40 degrees F, it will dump fuel to make it run. Keep in mind, the vehicle has two coolant temperature sensors. The one of interest can be seen in the attached pic and is used by the ECM.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Hi,

No problem. The coolant temperature sensor should be replaced. The engine coolant temperature affects most systems the PCM controls which includes fuel injection.

Let me know if that takes care of the issue.

Joe

Hi,

If it is saturated, drain it. I would drain all of it and place an inexpensive oil in it. If there is that much fuel in the oil, it will be very thin.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Did you lose spark to the plugs? Here is a link that explains how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Let me know. Also, let me know if the plugs are wet or not.

Joe

When you reinstall the plugs, remove the fuel pump fuse and see if it will run for a few seconds. Hang in there.

Also, when you reinstalled the fuel lines, is there any chance you may have reversed the return and supply?

Let me know.

Joe

If you have spark at all plugs, then it likely is not getting enough fuel. The idea that 2, 5, and 6 are wet leads me to think they aren't getting spark. However, you confirmed they are.

Do me a favor. Each fuel injector will have a solid pink wire to it. Confirm there is 12v to each pink wire. There is a second wire as well that will be different colors by the cylinder. See pic below. That wire provides a ground path to the PCM to complete the circuit, time the injection, and adjust the air/fuel mixture based on conditions.

If the pink wires all have power, check the other wire on the cylinders having wet plugs and see if it has a constant ground. If it does, that is the problem.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

With the key off, if you place the voltmeter between the two wires from the connector, you have 6V? You shouldn't have anything because the low reference from the computer shouldn't be supplying power.

Let me know. Also, I was wondering if there was a constant ground that would allow the injector to continuously inject fuel.

Let me know. Also, check the wire (other than the pink) for continuity to ground. You should have an open circuit until the ECM provides the ground path.

Let me know,

Joe