Starter removal and location please?

Are you sure the starter is turning the engine? If the belt isn't turning, that tells me either it is off the pulley or the engine isn't turning. Does the starter sound different?

Hi,

Are you aware that the upper bolt comes from the transmission to the starter? If you have the air filter box removed, you should be able to access it.

Let me know.
Joe

Do me a favor, it's been awhile since I did one of these. Can you upload a picture of the bracket you are referring to? It should spark some memory (good or bad). LOL In all honesty, this is one of the easier ones. Some cars require the intake to be removed. Ugh! It just keeps getting more and more interesting. Eventually, one will need a mechanical engineering degree to replace an air filter. LOL

Take care and I will watch for your reply.

Joe

Hi,

What is that attached to on the right hand side of your pic? Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. Take a look through them and let me know if they help in any way. As far as the pic, I believe that is a support between the engine block and transmission, but I'm not 100% sure. Also, please confirm something for me. You indicated this as a 3.0L V6. It should be the 2.7L. Is that correct? Also, let me know if it is a sedan or coupe.

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2002 Dodge Stratus Sedan V6-2.7L VIN R
Procedures
Vehicle Starting and Charging Starting System Starter Motor Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
REMOVAL
1. Open Hood.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Raise vehicle and support.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector from the O2 sensor.

Fig.6 O2 Sensor

Pic 1

5. Remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold (Fig. 6).
6. Remove the front mount through bolt.
7. Remove the front mount bracket from engine block.

Fig.7 Starter Motor

pic 2

8. Remove the battery cable from starter (Fig. 7).

Fig.8 Starter Motor Removal

pic 3

9. Remove the lower starter bolt and remove starter (Fig. 8).

INSTALLATION
1. Install starter to transmission.
2. Start the upper starter bolt.
3. Start the lower bolt and snug it so that the starter will not move.
4. Remove the upper bolt.
5. Connect the battery cable and torque nut to 8.5 Nm (75 in. Lbs.).
6. Install the front mount bracket and check heat shield location.
7. Install bolt the upper bolt and torque bolt to 54 Nm (40 ft. Lbs.)
8. Install the lower and torque bolt to 54 Nm (40 ft. Lbs.)
9. Install the front mount through bolt and torque bolt to 61 Nm (45 ft. Lbs.)
10. Install the O2 sensor and torque to 27 Nm (20 ft. Lbs.)
11. Lower vehicle.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.

__________________________

Let me know.
Joe

You should support it with a jack or similar tool, yes.

Brian,

OMG! I was looking at a sedan the entire time.

Believe it or not, I have no directions from the manual. Here is what I recall: Remove the oil filter, remove the O2 sensor. Then, you have to remove the two 19mm bolts from the down pipe on the exhaust to manifold and lower the pipe. That is the only way I ever remember doing it. And if I recall, there was no easy way to get it out even after that was done. I always had to fight them.

As far as that bracket, if it was bolted between the manifold and the chassis, I would think it would constantly break the manifold when the engine torqued.

Wow, nothing is ever easy. Tell me if you think lowering the Y pipe will help with space. That is honestly the only thing I can remember from these. I even went into the manual and looked up engine removal and nothing was listed for that support.

Joe

If you have a chance, let me know how things turn out. Honestly, I pulled a transmission out of a Dakota and I swear the car was built around it. LOL

Joe

Pick your symptoms below check it and get back with some testing results

**Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, Do you hear the fuel pump come On when you turn key on? If not check fuel pump fuse and fuel pump relay if so, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

OR**

**No crank at all/nothing/nada when key is engage to starting position

Could be a blown fusible link, the starter, starter relay, park and neutral switch/transmission position switch and ignition switch assuming the battery condition and connections are good. Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.

Is this fuse #8 in the PDC located under the hood at the left front fender panel?
If so, exactly where is the ignition key position at when the fuse blows?
I see three things that fuse powers, the starter relay, the fuel pump relay and the ignition switch. So remove the fuel pump relay and the starter relay and then see if that fuse still blows when you turn the key to that position. If it still blows the fuse, then it must be with whatever the ignition switch feeds.