Starter continues to run

Two possibilities. The high-current contacts could be welded together from repeated arcing or the coil in it could be warped from being previously overheated. Those solenoids cannot remain engaged for more than twenty to thirty seconds at a time without time in between to cool down. If someone had a starting problem and continued to crank for a long time, a warped coil can make the plunger stick.

You could also have the wrong solenoid. There were three different designs. One did not use the second small terminal. One had the second small terminal for the neutral safety switch circuit. A third circuit used that second terminal to bypass the ignition resistor for breaker point systems. One of those can become energized by the voltage in the ignition circuit. That current flow is not sufficient to make a magnetic field large enough to engage the plunger, but once the plunger has been engaged through the ignition switch, that smaller current can be sufficient to hold the plunger engaged. Tapping on the solenoid can shock it enough that with the help of the weak magnetic field, the plunger might move enough for the contact disc to turn on and the starter cranks the engine.

If you have that second smaller terminal, unplug it, then see if the solenoid still engages with the ignition switch.

Go with the solenoid!

No idea of its age or hard life. What is $15.00-$25.00 spent on the one you love?

Return with good news or we'll start breaking out wire diagrams

Insure the battery cable and accessories are on one big post all together (A in picture on my Jeeps)

Insure the starter cable is on the other big post- all by itself (B in my picture)

(which big post does not matter, as long as the starter is all by itself on one of them)

I like my Positive cable and accessories on the big post closest to the "s" terminal so that I can crank/ bump the the starter with a screwdriver if need be

The one from the ignition switch will so to small terminal "s" on the solenoid (location C in my last picture), the other wire goes to "I" (which feeds the coil while cranking)(D in pic)

Points?/ Prestolite Ign?/ Other?

Any other non-OEM modifications on your baby?

Here's a picture of my 1977's solenoid.

The Medic

Not likely. I am going to have to dig up a wiring diagram, but from memory of other systems, there is usually one set of switch contacts that do ground one wire during cranking. That is to turn on the red "brake" warning light for the bulb-check function. That does not have anything to do with the ignition or cranking systems.

Roger Doc

That "check" runs through the proportional valve, the "brake light" (in the cluster sort of dims and returns as the engine rotates). I have been told that some inspection points check that on other vehicles, but have no clue that the "sorta flashing" brake light during starting on a Jeep CJ proves the system is fine. The same light lets you know if the emergency brake is on.

The Medic

It looks to be wired correctly

The only other possibilities (if the new one don't fix it) Might be a bad ignition switch or a "hot wire" somehow connected or crossed up with "S-WIRE"

Yours being just like factory (positive battery cable and accessories on the right side (bottom in your pic) Starter on the left by itself (top in your pic)

I have mine opposite, you can see my reason in the 1st pic

In your pic on the accessory side (big post on bottom in pic) Looks like some of your wires are fraying out of the "stake-ons"!

The glimpse of the front of your distributor tells me that you have "Prestolite Ignition"

Let us know if the "Solenoid" fixes you up!

Keep shootin' questions if you have any.

The Medic

I found the same as your old one at rockauto.com

I found it under a 1974 cj-5

Here's the link

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=936689&cc=1180583&jsn=422

It may be that you can find it local if you go with a '74

Also insure that your starter cable (metal below the ring) is not touching "metal" on the bottom of the solenoid- kinda looks close in the pic

I'd say the other terminal is necessary/ 'specially if this issue did not arise until you tried the new switch

Thanks for the pics they help us a lot! Not too many people post 'em for us.

Link below is a quick way to stop the forever cranking/ even when this is fixed, the solenoid could stick in the future (and they sometimes do) and you are sure not to have a 1/2 wrench real handy. Also makes for a quick disconnect when you are working on electrical stuff. There are other styles. This one is EZ and cheap.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autocraft-top-mount-battery-terminal-quick-disconnect-switch-20138/6280536-P?searchTerm=battery+disconnect

Your turn!

The Medic

Let's see if this one works

Last switch in the "block"

If this don't work, I'll find it after I get home

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1974,cj5,4.2l+258cid+l6,1180583,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700?a=Referer+www.google.com+URL+%2F

The Medic

1/2 did not link/ paste the whole thing on a new tab/ it works that way!

The Medic

Please let us know what happens, we are here to help

Have you replaced the battery? I know it sounds weird but when the battery starts to become weak when the starter is engaged, it doesn't have enough amperage to disengage the starter, please try a new battery.

Here is a guide to help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replacing-car-battery

Let me know what you find

Best, Ken