Engine starts chugging and will stall out

You're welcome!

Keep us updated after cleaning the EGR to see if the symptom persists. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

Hi,

Does releasing the brake seem to clear things up for you? The power brake booster could have a vacuum leak. The brake booster is behind the master cylinder.

There will be a large vacuum hose running to it. I attached a pic I found on the net and circled where the vacuum hose will connect. Make sure nothing is leaking at that point.

Joe

First, try moving the vacuum hose around to see if you hear a hissing. Do this with the engine running. If nothing shows up, here is a link that explains how to find an engine vacuum leak. You can use this procedure to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

Have you rechecked for codes? Is it possible to record what it's doing and upload it for me to see? Also, when this happens, is there any smoke from the exhaust (black specifically)?

Let me know.
Joe

Hi,

I really can't hear it, but noticed the temperature gauge is off. Do you have access to a live data scan tool? If the engine coolant temp is sending a radical signal, it won't set the check engine light but will cause issues with the air/fuel ratio. That can cause issues.

Let me know.
Joe

Hello again.

You can find Actron or Innova brand scanners at most auto parts stores like Pep Boys, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc. You might want to see if you can borrow one first from a friend otherwise they range from $50.00 to $350.00 at parts stores. Hope this helps and keep us updated. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-

When was the last tune up? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Catalytic converter? Any trouble codes in the computer?

The fuel injectors could be failing or dirty. Try running a high quality fuel system cleaner through the system.
The best one to get is BG44K, but is hard to find and you will have to check service stations or car dealerships in the parts department to find it. The other good one is Sea Foam.
Run two cans of either one or you can do a direct pour into the engine using the brake booster vacuum line as your entrance to pur it into the engine. If you choose to pour it directly into the vacuum line leading into the intake manifold, there are a few things to know;

Do not rev the engine during the entire cleaning process.
It will create a great deal of smoke from the exhaust for several minutes. So, don't do it where you might irritate your neighbors who have their windows open.
Idle the vehicle until the smoke from exhaust clears and only use one can to do this.
Do not repeat this direct poor method for a while.
Performance changes may take a little bit of driving as many deposits will be loosened from parts and have to flush through sytem until the true results can be fealt.
You may need to replace the engine oil soon after cleaning as so many deposits will be removed, it tends to make the oil dirty.
You can still run a can in the tank, just don't run two cans of cleaner via the direct pour methed. It can overheat catalytic converters and O2 snesors if this is done.

They can go fast or slow.

Welcome, It's hard to get pointed in the right direction without knowing if your loosing spark or fuel, first, or something else? If your loosing spark, a possibility is pick-up coil or worn out distributor.