Engine shakes

Tiny
INMYHEART28
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 HYUNDAI ELANTRA
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,800 MILES
I would hate to have another car issue after I recently spent about $700.00 on my engine and $2,500.00 on my transmission, but sometime (not most of the time) when I turn my car on, the car shakes a little bit. Is this yet again another issue or normal? I would think that the engine fix and the transmission fix should have taken care of all issues and the people working on the car at that time would have noticed any issues as these fixes were both done in the past month. I am thinking I am just more sensitive to issues after dealing with the last two and I hope everything is normal. I know it cannot be easy to give an answer without actually inspecting the car. Any opinions?
Tuesday, May 16th, 2017 AT 6:36 PM

21 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
Hello,

I will be glad to help you. First let me know does the engine shake when the car is in park or does it shake while driving?

Please let us know.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 11:59 AM
Tiny
INMYHEART28
  • MEMBER
  • 222 POSTS
It doesn't do either of those. It only shakes (not often but rarely) when I turn the key to turn the car on. Once the car is actually on it never shakes. I never actually said that the engine shakes. I don't know that. I've just felt a shaking from time to time. It could be the engine or it could be something else. If this is normal I would be pleased because, as I said, I've just spent $3,200 on my car in the past month, give or take. It's not a big issue. Just something that I wondered about.
Thanks
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:04 PM
Tiny
ZULANDERS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 2004 HYUNDAI ELANTRA
Engine Mechanical problem
2004 Hyundai Elantra 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

the engine is 1.6L, recently skim it's head cylinder due to overheating.
Before resurface the engine head, the engine condition is normal however there is oil leakage around the head and block contact area. To resolve the problem I resurface the cylinder head block to get the flat surface again. However after putting all back together, the leakage stop but the engine shake abnormally during idle.
The spark plug in cylinder 2, 3 and 4 become darkish like it did not have a normal burn environment.
Have sent the car to check it ecu for error code problem but there is none. (The check engine did not light up initially until now)
what should I do now? What more test did I need to do?
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-1
Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi zulanders,

What are the troble codes that you are getting?
Is the timing belt installed correctly?
Were the valve clearance checked( if adjustabe)?

Get a compression test done and check if they are within spoecs.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZULANDERS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
-there is no error code display in the diagnose test
-timing belt are install correctly according to its marking
-valve clearance are not adjustable

-what is the normal compression value for the cylinder?
I will post the value as soon as I can.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
It is surprising that the MIL is indicating and no trouble codes are stored. Sometrouble codes would not show once the engine is turn off, so if the MIL appears again, get it scanned without turing the engine off.

Check wireharness ground circuit installations. An improperly secured ground circuit can rersult in the MIL indicating and no trouble codes with engine performance issues.

The compression pressure is 218 psi.
Minimum pressure is 145 psi.
Difference betrween cylinders 15 psi or less.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZULANDERS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
At first test, pressure at cylinder 1 did not have any pressure, while the other 3 cylinder have normal pressure.
So I decided to remove, clean and re-install the cylinder head. But now the problem seams to shift.
Only in cylinder 3 have pressure while the rest i.E. Cylinder 1, 2 and 4, having lost pressure. I try pour some oil inside the 3 problem cylinder and then re-test the pressure. Only cylinder 1 I could obtain back the pressure while the other two still having the problem.
In short, before:
cylinder 2, 3, 4 = ok
cylinder 1 = lost pressure

after:
cylinder 3 = ok
cylinder 1 = ok (only after pour some oil)
cylinder 2, 4 = lost pressure

do have any suggestion on what to do next? Why the problem shift from cylinder to cylinder?
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WHITYTDW
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2005 HYUNDAI ELANTRA
  • 83,000 MILES
2005 Hyundai Elantra Engine short rapid vibration shake felt in seat and steering wheel equally while car in gear at a stop but not in Neutral or Park position, vibration/shake worse at higher speeds, ruled out tires, rims, ball joints, hub bearings brakes.

Everything done to vehicle so far:
Checked ball joints, tie rods, hub bearings for any play and found nothing wrong. Front and Rear alignment performed, Replace 2 warped rims with more than 1/8” run-out that were causing severe vibration at speeds above 50mph, Installed new tires, road force balance all 4 wheels/tires, re-surfaced both front brake rotors due to both slightly warped. This has taken care of 50% of vibration problem rapid shaking/vibration still there at all speeds, worst is felt at 55-70mph.

I feel the shaking/vibration in the seat and steering wheel, most noticeable in the seat. You feel it the best on smooth pavement. When I put the car into any gear while brake applied at a stop the engine shake/pulsates gets work as you start to accelerate forward this is the same feeling shake/vibration felt at higher speeds. When transmission is placed into neutral or park the shake significantly decreases and can hardly be felt. I believe the cause of the problem to be an engine/ transmission related problem like a motor mount or mount on left side where transmission is mounted or something on chassis/ frame is loose.
Please help, I have already paid $919 for replacement parts and repairs.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Problem does not seem to be from the rings. More likely to be from the lifters.

When hydraulic lifters are removed and installed, the hydraulic have to be released do that they are not pressing against the valves which would result in the loss of compression as the valves are not closed completely.

Remove the lifter and with a stiff wire, push into the hole at the center of the unit and compress it slightly. Once the eninge is started, it might be noisy for a while but the noise would gradually go away once the lifters pressure builds up.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Without seeing this car have the motor mounts and trans mission mounts checked for wear. Also have the torque converter checked to see if the bolts are loose as well as the bushings in front an drear suspensions. But if it does it when first go into gear then motor/tans mounts may be the problem.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZULANDERS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I did not understand the 'lifter' that you mention.
Is it the short, cylinder type (look like button) located between valve and the rocker arms?
Would you mind provide me with some visual aids or the location of this 'lifter'? It is sure will help me a lots.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
In the diagram it is labellled as HLA ( Hydraulic Lash Adjuster)


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_HydraulicLifters04Accent_1.jpg



For this type of HLA, tap it on a wooden block to get the internals to come out, together with and oil inside that could be causing them to be oveextended. Clean with petroleum based cleaners and reassemble by pushing them in. Apply a thin coat of engine oil before reassembly.

Were the HLA removed and reinstalled according to their respective position on valves?
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZULANDERS
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I have done what advice that you guys give and it seams that the car is going to be fine. There is still some knocking at the engine but as you say before, the noise will fade away. I hope it is true. Until then, if there is any more problem I will consult to you more. As for now THANK YOU for all the advice, figure and diagram that you gave me. It is sure make it easy to solve it.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You're welcome and glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Have a nice day.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SADEQIMAHDI
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
  • 2004 HYUNDAI ELANTRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 2,000 MILES
Hello, I have a elantra 2005 with 15000 km mileage. The engine vibrate badly while stationary state. When I push the acceleration a little ( under 1000RPM) engine shakes badly. The mechanic has checked all the engine mounts but they were well. I have also changed the spark plug. The mechanic has checked the engine with computer but he didnot find anything. I hate this vibration, what should I do?
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You need another shop that will start from scratch. You need a compression test to make sure the motor is good. Then check fuel pressure and spark. Once you verify these items, you can move forward with other possibilities. I think you will find your issue with the motor.

Roy
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
I am wondering if it could be the engine mounts. Can you take a video of the problem and send it this way?

Best, Ken
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
INMYHEART28
  • MEMBER
  • 222 POSTS
I will do what I can. Thank you for your help so far.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:37 PM
Tiny
INMYHEART28
  • MEMBER
  • 222 POSTS
The thing that confuses me is that it only happens when I turn the key in order to turn the car on and it doesn't happen most of the time. Is this ever normal?
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:47 PM
Tiny
INMYHEART28
  • MEMBER
  • 222 POSTS
When I look back I seem to remember having a similar issue last year and when I took it to the dealer I found nothing. I never noticed this issue for 3/4 of a year. Now I have noticed it again (but only on a few starts.) I guess the only thing to do is to take a video if I am able to do that. I am not good at posting things to youtube. I'd have to figure it out. I hope it's nothing. We will see.
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Friday, May 19th, 2017 AT 1:52 PM

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