My engine hard starting?

Tiny
OAKLEY04
  • MEMBER
  • 2015 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 76,000 MILES
After the car has sat idle for several hours, it becomes hard to start. When you turn the key the cranking is not slowed down and the battery has tested good. I was told to let the car sit for a while and then on the next start attempt to turn the key forward to the aux position, wait 3 seconds and then back to off, turn forward to the aux position, wait 3 second, then back to off, then to try cranking it. It started on the first crank. I was told this indicated an issue with either the fuel filter or fuel pump. I am unsure where either are on this vehicle and how easy/difficult they might be to change?
Monday, December 9th, 2019 AT 12:06 PM

31 Replies

Tiny
JONNYB1963
  • MECHANIC
  • 252 POSTS
Both are located in the fuel tank. And If I'm not mistaken they are sold together.
You will need a special tool for removing the locking ring that holds the pump into the tank.(see link below)

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-change-a-fuel-filter

What you need to do release the fuel pressure in the system before proceeding. To do this make sure the car is off, then on top of the engine where the fuel injector rail is, you will find a small valve stem that looks much like a bicycle valve stem. remove the cap and depress the center of that valve slowly to release the pressure.

Afterwards follow this procedure to replace the fuel pump and filter assembly:

1. Take out the back seat of the vehicle.
2. Look for a removable cover in the floor pan of the car.
3. Remove that cover. (under it you will see the top of the fuel pump.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector
5. disconnect all the lines (vapor and fuel line)
6. Using the special tool rotate the retaining ring 1/8th of a turn and it will pop off.
7. Remove the pump
8. Install the new pump in the reverse order.

Regards,
Jon

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Monday, December 9th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,452 POSTS
Okay, to clarify this in my head. You turn the key and the engine turns over just fine but does not star if the car has sat a while. However if you turn the key on and off a few times it will then start on the first try, correct?
If so that means that there is likely an issue with either the in tank fuel pump or the regulator. What is happening is that when the car is setting the fuel pressure in the system bleeds down far enough that the normal 2 second fuel pump prime isn't enough to restore full pressure up to the high pressure pump.
There are a few causes for that, a bad pressure regulator or the return check valve in the pump has failed or stuck open being the common ones. However on your engine it could also be caused by leakage in the high pressure pump on the engine. There is a recall for the high pressure line leaking fuel that came out in March. (#19-01-001H)

The first thing I would do is connect a pressure gauge to the line coming into the high pressure pump. For that you need a special adapter shown in the first pic. With it connected you turn the key on off a few times and then start the engine. You want to see between 70 and 75 psi with the engine running. Low pressure shows a leak or plugged filter. High pressure is a bad regulator. Now shut the engine off while watching the pressure. It should hold the pressure it shows for at least 5 minutes, longer is better. If the pressure drops off very slowly you have a bad injector or a small leak. If it drops off almost instantly there is a fault in the main pump or regulator.

The main fuel pump is in the tank with the pressure regulator. To get to it you need to remove the rearward most seat assembly first. Then you will see an access panel. That gets removed and under it are the fuel lines and connections. Remove the connectors and then the ring and the pump lifts out. Be sure you have something to set it into and don't tip it when you remove it, otherwise you will spill gas inside the vehicle.

I would however see if this would be covered under the power-train warranty if you bought it new.
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Monday, December 9th, 2019 AT 1:16 PM
Tiny
ELLUSIONIST
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2006 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
Every time I put fuel in my car I have a really hard starting it. I have to rev the engine really high then shift into drive and drive off fast to keep it going. What is the problem
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,740 POSTS
Does this only happen when you put gas in it? Has the check engine light come on? When was the fuel filter replaced last?

This guide can help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-cranks-excessively-before-starting

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KLONG19
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 60,000 MILES
I tried to start my car yesterday, but the engine kept cranking and would not start. This morning, I did the same thing, and the engine came on after cranking excessively. The engine trouble light is on, and it sounds rough. Spark plugs and wires are ok and I cannot locate the cause of the problem.
I don't have a method of checking the code and I live in a rural area, so finding the problem myself would be the best option. Any idea?
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,740 POSTS
In all honsty, the best thing to do is have the computer scanned. It will identify where the problem is coming from. Are there any nationally recognized parts stores near you? Most will scan the computer for free. It could be many things. My first guess would be fuel pressure being too low, but I can't be sure without scanning the computer.

Let me know if you can get to one.

Joe
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JONNY-63
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2005 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
So my vehicle is starting to become very temperamental so here’s the facts if anyone can help point me in the right direction:

†Starts first time every time when cold or when it’s left to cool down for approximately 30 minutes.

†Cold or warm it’s idle randomly jumps from 800 rpm's to anywhere up to 1,800 rpm's and will drop back down again at any time.

†After starting and driving for maybe 10 minutes, once the engine is warm, if you stop the engine and run into a shop for 5 minutes and come out again it will turn over and over without igniting.

†When it’s turning over like this, if you pump the throttle pedal it will slowing shudder and ignite after maybe 10-15 seconds of trying.

†Or alternatively if you put the key in and turn on the ignition and wait until the airbag light goes off (almost like glowing a diesel) it will ignite right away like normal (only twice has this not worked and we just had to wait until it cooled down).

†Even when driving the RPM's will rise so as it’s automatic, if you’re at traffic lights or a junction it can just jump in revs and the car will jerk forward so you have to keep your foot firmly on the brakes or if your coasting down a hill off the throttle completely it will still cruise at the higher RPM's so you have to use the brakes again to slow down, but again this just happens randomly without any warning.

Reading other articles there’s I’ve seen different symptoms similar but not the same, in those cases the main causes are a coolant temperature sensor, air intake sensor or just cracks in air intake pipes etc. Just hoping someone has had the same problems and could point me in the right direction before having to pay a lot of money going through all the possibilities, thanks!
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
Hello,

This sounds like a common problem due to a dirty throttle bore. here is a guide to help you fix the problem we should run the codes as well:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JONNY-63
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I got the codes checked and they are:

†P0122 - Throttle position sensor/ Throttle pedal position - Low Input
†P0123 - Throttle position sensor/ Throttle pedal position - High Input
†P0130 - Heated oxygen sensor 1, Bank 1 - Circuit Malfunction.

I haven’t had a chance to clean the throttle bore yet but the mechanic said to start with replacing the TPS and another sensor that are on the throttle body first to rule them out but I’d rather rule out cheaper solutions first like this.

The car has gradually got worse, now it won’t start at all when hot and idle is jumping from 700 rpm's to over 3,000 rpm's sporadically without touching the throttle pedal. It’s also starting to stall when put into Drive or Reverse gears when the revs drop.

When unplugging either sensor on the throttle body it will stop certain symptoms like the stalling or high revs but will create new symptoms.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
I would replace the TPS sensor and clean throttle bore first and replace the oxygen sensor. here is a guide to help walk you through the steps and the sensor locations below:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-oxygen-sensor

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JONNY-63
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I’ve cleaned the throttle bore well and around both sensors and that didn’t help, but I’ve found now that the car will start straight away when warm if I give it fresh cool air; by either taking the air intake pipe straight off of the throttle bore or simply removing a small breather pipe just before the throttle bore on the intake pipe. Which indicates that it’s not getting enough air when hot to ignite, or that it’s getting too much fuel and not enough air until I give it a fresh flow of air.

As for when the rpm rises up and stays at a constant 2,500 rpm's, you can hear the purge control valve on the throttle bore opening and sucking in air which is making the rpm rise, if it is unplugged the RPM will drop back down to a normal state although the rpm will change and fluctuate when you touch the TPS plug or wires so there may be a loose connection there or it could just be the sensor.

A mechanic is going to watch volt and resistance readings tomorrow with his computer and help diagnose where it’s coming from so I will write up when I know more. Any suggestions welcome!
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
I have seen the engine coolant temperature sensor cause this issue. Here is the location so you can change it out. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JONNY-63
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
So the mechanic done a great job and sorted the car for us. Reading what the coolant temperature sensor was doing he found it was jumping from around 70degree to -20degrees which was why the revs were rising so a coolant temperature sensor fixed that. It still had the hot start problem which he finally traced back to the air temperature sensor in the intake manifold. Turns out whoever was the last person to take the manifold off, plugged two plugs in the wrong way around! The plug for the temperature sensor and the plug for the purge valve in the throttle bore are beside each other at the back of the manifold and both are the same fittings so after switching plugs and getting a new air temp sensor (as it runs off 5v and it was getting a 12v feed off the other plug it fried the sensor) the car is running great! Hope the thread helps someone in the future!
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MAGICCHEF
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
Only in the last few days the car has been cranking longer and longer before it starts. Plugs and timing belt were replaced by a mechanic shop within the last 35,000 miles.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HOMER1967
  • MECHANIC
  • 875 POSTS
Try this, cyle your key on and off about three times before cranking, meaning turn it on until all the dash lights come on, but don't crank it over, then turn it off and back on three times. Then try to start it and see if that makes it better. If it does then you have a fuel issue, either pressure or volume. Let me know.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,536 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help.
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARY SLONE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 119,000 MILES
I have to crank it three or four times before it will start, but after it starts it runs perfect. Please tell me what it is?
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HARRY P
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,292 POSTS
The next time you go to start it, turn the key on for three seconds, then off, then on again for another three seconds. Then crank it. I will bet it starts easily after that. It is because the fuel pump was able to prime the fuel system and build pressure. At that mileage, an old and clogged fuel filter would probably be what is causing that to happen. Basically, it is making it harder for the pump to build the pressure needed to start the engine. See the image below for instructions. Frankly, you need to be pretty mechanically inclined to do this job.

It could also just be that it needs a tune-up. When was the last time that you had new spark plugs and plug wires installed?
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JYRO58
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2003 HYUNDAI SANTA FE
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 245,000 MILES
My car was giving me problem starting, it was getting gas and spark. Mechanic replaced plugs, fuel pump, crank sensor, run and started good for about one hundred miles. Computer gave several diagnostics. I changed the fuel pressure regulator, it will start after three on / off turn of key, but still lacks power. Any ideas?
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
If the power is intermittent then do as I said in first reply and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)

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