Sitting for nine months, before I try starting it should I try to pump oil into engine components?

Don't do anything out of the ordinary. Cars routinely sit for long periods of time before being delivered to the dealerships, then again at the dealership before they're sold. As for oil passages in the engine, there is always a good one or two quarts left in it after draining for an oil change. That ensures oil is in the pump and will reach critical bearings almost instantly.

There are a few other things to be aware of. The first is when the car is going to sit unused, there is always a fuse to remove or a cable to unplug, to remove the "ignition-off draw". In fact the fuse may be labeled, "IOD". All of the computers on your car draw a small amount of current to maintain their memories and to keep the clock running. For a vehicle this age, Chrysler used to allow a maximum of 35 milliamps, (.035 amp). They said at that rate, a good, fully-charged battery would still be able to crank the engine fast enough to start after sitting for three weeks. Today that is an industry standard among most car brands. One exception is Cadillac which allows up to 50 milliamps. Your Honda has just a few computers, so you can expect the battery to maintain enough charge for perhaps as much as six weeks or more.

Given the length of time your car has been sitting, expect the battery to need to be recharged before trying to crank the engine. Use a small portable charger set to its lowest range for a minimum of two hours, and preferably overnight. If you watch the amp meter on the charger, you will see it stay near "0" for about the first 15 minutes, then slowly come up to around five amps. It takes that long for the acid in the battery to become conductive and start to take a charge. The current will drop back to near "0" when the battery is fully charged.

There's two things to be aware of related to gas. The first is fuel pressure will likely have bled down over days or weeks. That's to be expected, but it is supposed to hold high enough for engine starting. Because it will likely have bled down too far, the fuel pump will run for about one second each time you turn on the ignition switch. Besides that one second, the pump doesn't run again until the engine is rotating, (cranking or running).

The other problem is gas that goes stale very quickly. I have two cars with more than ten-year-old gas. They start and run just fine, but other cars with newer gas will have running problems. Seems to be about four months is all it lasts now. Your car is likely to start and run okay with nine-month-old gas, but don't panic if the Check Engine light turns on. A '92 model isn't new enough to monitor engine misfires, so instead of the warning light, you may just experience some sputtering or surging. Some people run straight to the gas station to fill the tank with fresh, new gas, but that just dilutes the old stale stuff and makes it take longer to get it all used up. If the car is drivable, I prefer to run the old stuff out first, then add the new gas.

You'll hear grinding from the brakes at first due to rust buildup on the rotors. That will wear off after just a few stops. That rust can even cause a rear brake to lock up under light pedal pressure, especially if you're stopping on dirt or granite. That will also clear up on its own. The rust build up is due to humidity in the air.

Please let us know how this turns out, and be sure to come back to see us with the next problem.

Yes to both. I will try to answer it here, but there are dandy reasons for starting a new one. Here's the link to get you there faster, if you need it:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

First, these questions get categorized by model and by topic so it's easy for others researching a similar problem to read the solutions without having to type their own question and wait for a reply. When you add a new question to this one, it won't show up on any list, and your answer might be just the answer someone else needs to see.

Second, unlike other sites where anyone can chime in to confuse the issue, here it becomes a private conversation between just you and one or two other people. We stick with you until the problem is resolved. Once we post our first reply, your question goes "off the list" of those waiting for a reply. That means none of the other experts will see your addition unless they're observing in the background in hopes of learning the solution. As such, the new problem is likely to never be seen by one of the experts who is much more qualified to answer. That may not get you the help you need. My specialty areas are Electrical, Suspension and Alignment, Brakes, and some Engine Repair. You can see I left out a number of specialties like Transmission and Driveline, Engine Performance, and Emissions. I stay away from those questions because I know we have other experts who will do a much better job.

You are welcome to ask more questions here, but consider starting a new one too so we can get others involved.