Shuts off while driving

Tiny
TF43
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 MITSUBISHI MIRAGE
  • 1.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
The problem I'm experiencing is after being driven for a little bit, is like it just shuts itself off. It'll being running okay and acts like you have turn the key off. The other day, I drove it approximately fourteen miles, say 8 miles to town, shut it off and did an errand. Got in and started for home. Almost home it acted like it was shutting off. On/off/on/off so I tried to accelerate, and it sort of puffed (LOL) and that was it. I know I have a starter issue, as it doesn't always want to start, so I figure the brushes are worn. Finally got it started. Some guys stopped and help by tapping the starter and started and off to home. Perhaps related but doubt it. The shutting on/off/on/off is what I'm wondering about. Ignition switch perhaps? It has new plugs, plug wires, fuel injectors, fairly recent fuel pump. Or ignition relay? My other question is about replacing the starter. I've got several different manuals, but nothing seems to be very clear about what has to be removed to get to the starter. Thanks much.
Monday, October 18th, 2021 AT 3:38 PM

39 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

What you are describing sounds like it could be related to the crankshaft position sensor. When they start to fail, heat has an adverse effect on them. What you could do is this. When it won't start, see if spark is lost to the plugs. Or, if the vehicle has a tachometer, see if it moves slightly when cranking. If it does and you do have spark, see if it starts for a couple of seconds using starting fluid and then stalls. If that happens, we know it is fuel related.

Before we suspect a crankshaft position sensor, take a look through this link, and let me know if it seems to mirror what you experience. I want to be sure the sensor is bad before trying to replace it. The timing belt cover needs removed to access it.

Now the starter is not hard to replace. I just looked at my manual's directions and they are extremely vague. So first, take a look through this link. It explains in general how the procedure is done.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

If you look at the pic below, those are the directions I have. LOL There isn't much to go on. However, what you will need to do is this. First and very important, disconnect the negative battery terminal before working on the starter.

Next, you will need to remove the air filter and filter box. The starter is below it. Once you get that removed, disconnect the wires to the starter (carefully) and then remove the two bolts holding the starter in place. When you reinstall, it is basically the reverse procedure. However, when you connect the wires to the new starter, make sure they are not in any way touching each other. If they are, the starter will engage as soon as you connect the battery and not turn off until the battery is disconnected.

I hope this helps. Please let me know what I can do to help.

Joe

See pic below.
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Monday, October 18th, 2021 AT 8:02 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,

The stalling occurs after it has warmed up some, but even at that it may occur after being driven less than a block or two. I got the link for the start, but there is no link for the crankshaft sensor item. The car is 21 years old, and I'd suspect it is all original. We got the think is 2002 or 03. Perhaps it is heating up. Another fact just a little past history, we were charging the A/C one time, and over charged by accident. It blew the high pressure line off and it had Freon blow thought the entire cabin. Shortly after that the gas gauge started failing. Shortly being perhaps less than a year. And some dials on the A/C vents cables became difficult to move. It does not have a Tachometer. It's a DE 4dr 1.5L. Auto transmission.
Thanks much thus far. Yes, the manuals don't offer much on the starter, LOL.
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Monday, October 18th, 2021 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

I'm so sorry. Here is the link. Let me know your thoughts or if you have other questions.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

By the way, I need you to add the questions related to the vents to a new thread. We try to keep them specific to one topic, so it helps others.

Here is the link to start a new thread. I hope you understand.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Take care,

Joe
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Tuesday, October 19th, 2021 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,

It has been sometime, and I continue to have issues with this car shutting off on me.
It somewhat cleared up at one time, but yesterday I had to tow it home.
If it were a crank shaft sensor failing, wouldn't it throw a code P0335?
Or does a 2000 model throw that code?
Things I've done:
New injectors - new wires - new distributor - replaced IAC twice - check the TPS adjustment
replaced the fuel pump/injector relay (hidden in the console) - replaced the fuel pump (to find I had a bad relay)
When it dies, I can manually turn on the fuel pump and hear it running, but it wouldn't start.
I am thinking either the cheap fuel pump isn't always pumping, and I need to put my fuel pressure tester on and see what the pressure is at the fuel rail.

To replace a crank shaft sensor, do you have to remove the engine mount?
I'd change it, but again. Wouldn't it throw a sensor code?

On the IAC - the car has been strange for some time and while hard to explain. The idle is rarely correct until it runs for a moment. Turn on the AC and it will race and idle down to normal again. A/C on and then put in drive, it will idle down to around 350rpm and then work its way back to normal again, around 800 to 850 RPMs.
Would a throttle body go bad. I have removed and cleaned it before.
Thanks Joe.
Terry
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Saturday, December 23rd, 2023 AT 2:35 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

If it isn't starting, check to see if there is spark at the plugs. If the crankshaft position sensor is bad, you won't have spark.

Here is a link that explains how to check it:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

As far as the code is concerned, it may or may not set a code. The code you mentioned is relevant for this vehicle.

Take a look through this link and let me know your thoughts:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

As far as the sensor is concerned, you should be able to replace it without removing a mount. It is on the front of the engine. See pic below.

Let me know. Also, I hope you have a great Christmas.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, December 23rd, 2023 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
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Sent the spark plug link twice and not the crank sensor item.
Plus, no picture at the bottom?
And to add, it never shows the check engine light, it just shuts off.
Now I have to stop and think does it even have a check engine light, the SRS light comes on, not sure what that is about.
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Saturday, December 23rd, 2023 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

Sorry about that. It's been a long day. LOL Here is the link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

The reason I wanted you to review the link is because it explains how the sensor functions based on engine speed. So, the engine could stall for a different reason (run out of fuel) which isn't caused by the sensor, so that could be causing the issue.

And it should have a CEL.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, December 23rd, 2023 AT 9:45 PM
Tiny
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Now that makes sense. So, I guess I'll order one.
Have to drop the tank again anyway and patch another hole in the tank.
I'd get a new tank if I could find one, but so it goes living on a little rock in the South Pacific
Thanks Joe. I will provide an update at some point in time.
Terry
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Saturday, December 23rd, 2023 AT 9:55 PM
Tiny
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You have anything that shows what I need to remove to replace that thing?
The service manuals I have are pretty sad in that area.
Thanks
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Wednesday, December 27th, 2023 AT 11:55 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

My manual is the same on this vehicle. If I am looking at it correctly, the lower timing belt cover needs to be removed. See pic 1 below.

Pic 2, shows the lower cover I am referring to. If that needs to be removed, the crankshaft pulley needs removed first.

Before you remove the cover, confirm it is required. The labor is showing nearly 2 hours if it has AC, so that sounds like it needs to be removed.

Let me know if this helps.

Joe

See pics below.
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Thursday, December 28th, 2023 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,

Yes, it's a big help. And I found something on YouTube about it for a 1999
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-G77EWn0bA
It moves pretty fast and didn't say what to remove, but I stopped it and looked at the bottom side with the cover off and you can see you have to remove several items.
Too bad the manuals don't cover it more, but it should never fail, right? LOL
I'll confirm it first. today I drop the gas tank "again" so I could patch some holes in it "again"
And while at it I pulled the fuel pump out and the screen was pretty clogged up. I cleaned it and am going to see if I can flush the tank some. Once I get fuel in it and will run the pump and test the pressure on it and let it run for a little to see if it was getting hot and failing to pump. Hope to do it while the tank is on the bench. I'll just run a hose from the pump and back into where the level gauge goes in.
will let you know what I find. It'll be another week before my new sensor gets here anyway.
Terry
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Thursday, December 28th, 2023 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
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Terry,

I'm glad it helped. Let me know when you get to it. I had a feeling it needed to be removed, but the 1.8L doesn't so I was hoping you didn't have to.

Regardless, let me know how things turn out or if I can help.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, December 28th, 2023 AT 11:29 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,

I will keep you posted on my ordeal. LOL
By the way, it is a 1.5L Mirage 2000 DE 4 Door w/AC and blue. LOL
The Blue was tossed in as my Later Father-in-Law. He owned a muffler shop, and we ran Super Modified open wheel at PIR, but mainly Madera, CA and Bakersfield. He'd get calls a person needs a muffler and how much. What kind of car? Red 2 door and ask the make and model, response, they'll all the same for the red one. LOL I'm sure you get questions that require a little more input than sometimes provided as well.
Take care buddy,
Terry
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Friday, December 29th, 2023 AT 12:40 AM
Tiny
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Hi,

LOL That is a good one. I think I'll start throwing that question in when I get calls. LOL

You take care and let me know how things turn out for you. If I don't hear from you for a few days, have a great New Year.

Joe
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Friday, December 29th, 2023 AT 8:29 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,
Got the tank back in today.1/24/24 and come to find out it was a wasted day. Added 4 gallons of ash and it started leaking like it was never patched up. Guess my bad.I didn't see the putty stick in the Permatex Fiber Glass patch kit. So start that over again. What a wasted of time. LOL. I did get the crank sensor installed, and it was easy enough. Took about 5 hours and that was with smoke and coffee breaks. Lol. I'm 69 and don't move as fast as I use too. I work full time still and I do my own repairs if I can. I worked for Singer Company for 10 years and ran my own shop for another 10 years before moving to the South Pacific. See the 2010 Sport Trac Drive Line reply. : )
And I pitted crewed on an Open Wheel Super Modified for a few years. And while non of those makes me a certified auto repair person.I do okay in my car port. I have a 15 ton press, nice compressor and assortment of tools.

Anyway, I did start and run the car for a little while and it seemed much better with the crank sensor in it. Just hope that resolves it dying on the road, but got to fix that stupid gas tank first. Perhaps I can solder it up, rather than using the patch kits?
I'll keep you posted as I go along with it. Wish I could find a replacement gas tank, but it is way to old now.
As always, thank you Joe for all the support and chat
Terry
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Wednesday, January 24th, 2024 AT 8:31 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

It sound like you have the same luck I have. LOL As far as the fuel tank, there are a ton of them available in the US. I don't know how it works for shipping.

As far as the repair, be careful if you are heating the tank in any way. Let me know how things turn out for you.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, January 25th, 2024 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe,

Pulled the tank out today, Sat 1/27/24 again and I am going to test it before putting it back in this time. I was pretty confident it was sealed last time, but as mentioned. Forgot to do a step. Oh well. So it goes huh. LOL
Anyway, would you have a part number for this tank, see pic.
2000 Mitsubishi Mirage DE 4Dr Sedan, 1.5L
It has more smog connections than the tanks I find online. And I could use a filler neck as well. Naturally all are discontinued items - go figure. Dorman shows a tank, but not one like this.
Anyway, patching the holes again with some Permatex putty, will let that sit for a day, then think I'll cover it all with some JB Weld Metal epoxy that says fuel resistant.
Will try that before going after it with a torch and brazing rod.
Will keep you posted on the outcome.
Terry
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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
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Hi,

I attached two pics below. In my manual, the 1.5L is only used in a 2-door coupe. The 4-door sedan indicates a 1.8L engine. However, both appear to use the same fuel tank. And I looked up the part number from a dealership, and it indicates your vehicle and engine size, so I'm not sure which one is correct.

The only problem is the cost of the new one. The used one, if you can get them to ship it, would be a great price, $100.00. See the last three pics.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below. Pics 3 and 4 are from the same website. I couldn't fit it on one pic.
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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 8:10 PM
Tiny
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Here is the VIN:
JA3AY26AlYU008779
1.5L 4dr sedan DE
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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 8:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I tried using the VIN, but the system says there is no matching vehicle. If I had to guess, it is likely because they offered different models where you are located. See pic below.

The best thing to do is contact a seller and have him send pictures for you to verify it will fit.

I wish I could be of more help.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
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Saturday, January 27th, 2024 AT 9:22 PM

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