Shifting cable replacement

Did the cable break or just become disconnected (very common due to the plastic bushings failing, you can get just the bushings if the cable is still okay)?

Remove the set screw that retains the shift knob, then remove the console assembly. Now remove the four screws that secure the trans bezel. Now you can see the cable end. The cable just snaps onto the pin on the side of the lever. Remove the nuts that hold the grommet cover in place. Now open the hood, remove the air box, the battery and battery tray. Release the ball socket on the transmission end of the cable and release the cable from the bracket. Now you need to jack up and secure the vehicle and remove the converter heat shield from the tunnel area (the cable runs behind it). Drop the cable out of the chassis and remove it. Replacement is the reverse with the exception that you have to adjust the new cable. You do that by loosening the adjuster screw on the shift lever. Then after making sure the transmission is in park and the shift lever is in park you tighten the adjuster screw back down.

Please do so we can see what the problem is

Yours is slightly different. If you remove the four circled screws you should be able to access the cable.

If you mean the white connector for the cable to the stud it will depend on which cable you have the early version has a bolt that goes through the white piece with the red paint mark and attaches it to the cable, the later version the white plastic has a socket in it that just snaps into place over the stud that it mounts to. I have seen a couple that had snap rings on them as well to retain it but that were later models.

That one is a snap on type. They sort of pop on and off, but if you have a lot of miles on it, they can get brittle so be gentle.

That is the interlock cable. It should only allow the key to be shut off and removed with the car in park. It's adjustable, look at the area that is dirty in the picture and you should have a clip that goes around the cable. Use a small pick or screwdriver to pull that up. Now attach the cable and hold it in place while you move the shifter a few times and then once it's in park, be sure the key release works, now push the clip back down. Test it a couple times and it should work.

Good job, figured you would realize it but never hurts to know you got it.

Tell me the wire colors and I'll look them up, I suspect they may be for the other transmissions they used but wire colors should show that.

Does yours have an auto stick transmission shifter? That 4 pin connector could be for that option if you don't have it. Do the wires match the ones in the attached diagram?
The other one looks like it could be for the PRNDL light.

Going by the colors it is for the control for the other transmission option. They used 2 sticks as well as 2 automatics so planned for them all in one harness.

If it's the bolted area that came undone, you will need to apply a bit of Loctite to it so it cannot back out again. Next stiff and sticky is usually at the other end of the cable where they can corrode. However, it looks like soda or coffee spilled into that area from those brown stains. If that is the case the best option would be to replace the cable. You might be able to clean that out of it but not without a lot more work than just replacement. For a temperature test to see if that is the case you can get some graphite lubricant and spray it into the end of the cable while shifting it to work it in, it might free up enough that you can live with it.

Normally the problem will be in the cable. While it is possible for the transmissions manual input lever to freeze up it is nowhere as common as a failed cable. Plus, if it were the lever, it means the transmission itself would need to be removed because the only place they can jam is internally.