Crank will not start

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Just to add to this one It sounds like you could open terminal on your 68 way connector to your inside fuse box. It would be the connector closest to the front of your car on the back side of inside fuse box. Its on the drivers side just in front of your center console. Its a big red wire it feeds power to fuel pump transmission actuators alot different things. Over time all the heat running thru the connector bends the terminal end open. Causing a loose connection the first one I saw puzzled me at first. But now when I see anything that sounds like it I check that terminal its number like terminal F5 on the back of the connector I believe. Sometimes the connector gets so hot it starts to melt even. Let me know what you find. Also sometimes unplugging and plugging and plugging in your chime module helps issues like that. Also check the chime module for corroded terminals I have seen that before. The chime module is in that same area as that connector.

And you'll need to check the ignition switch on top of the column and may need to be adjusted.

It won't start with a screwdriver on that car it needs the cylinder to turn to start it. Because it has a pass lock sensor in the ignition housing that needs to see the cylinder turning. Also the ignition switch isn't adjustable on that it just mounted in place with a couple of screws. So when you used the screwdriver does it turn to the start position?Also the cylinder won't turn to the start poison just lock acc an run?Does the cylinder turn to all the positions with the cylinder out of the housing?

So if you use a screw driver to turn the housing to turn the ignition switch do the dash lights etc come on?Also why did you change the cylinder?

So your turning the unmounted ignition that's not attached to the housing and the dash lights etc work?But when its mounted to the housing and you use a screw driver in place of the cylinder no lights etc?

I wouldnt be pouring water on the pcm like that before I say its the pcm we need to check some stuff. When it wont start you need to check for spark pop off two spark plug wires that are side by side off the coil and crank the engine to start it there should be a spark jumping from tower to tower. If thats good then you will check the fuel pressure when it doesnt start with a fuel pressure gauge. If thats good then you will check for a injector pulse while cranking the engine usuing a noid light. This will be the start of the diagnoses of whats going on with the car so we can narrow it down.

Sounds like u have two problems now let's start with the won't even turn over first make sure ur battery cables are clean and tight that ur battery is charged up do u have a volt meter to make sure ur battery is charged?Also test all ur fuses u may have blown one make sure u have power on both sides of the fuse with a test light on all the fuse on the inside and outside fuse boxs. Let me know what u find.

Glad to here u got it all figured out did that also fix ur having trouble keeping it running while idling as well?

Hi
Code is air injection fault could be failed pump or carbon deposits but should not cause engine to die. Pull plug wire check for spark if good spray carb cleaner into throttle body see if it fires.
Let me know
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