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Saturday, January 4th, 2020 AT 1:28 PM
CASMIHOK
- MEMBER
- 204 POSTS
Okay, thank you Steve.
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Rusted crankshaft sensor
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,591 POSTS
You're welcome. Don't give up on removing the sensor though, if you already have it so it will move a bit it would be a good idea to remove it, clean out the hole and replace it just because the poking and prodding may have caused a glue seam or seal to break loose. Beyond that keep us informed of what you find.
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Sunday, January 5th, 2020 AT 6:12 AM
CASMIHOK
- MEMBER
- 204 POSTS
So I finally got it out, and then got the new one in. I lubed it well with oil and I got some sand paper and smoother out the rust in the hole as well.
I took the car for a ride last night. Seems okay, I had the CPR 123 recording while I was driving. I'm not sure if I used it properly because I don't see much under review.
Regardless, I don't have any codes after my ride. I took it for a good 40 min drive, speeds up to 60. I would have gone faster, but at 2000 RPM it felt kind of rough. I would get really close within the 2000 and you can feel a struggle, then the RPM's would go down after almost seemingly failing to operate 100%. I don't know if I'm describing this correctly.
I thought maybe it was a misfire, I just avoided going to 2000 RPM on majority of my ride. When accelerating uphill from 0, it was pretty rough.
Given that there's no codes, and with this feeling - what can I look out for? What sort of tests could I run on this CPR 123 to help me out?
Thank you!
PS. Let me know if you'd prefer I start a new thread.
I took the car for a ride last night. Seems okay, I had the CPR 123 recording while I was driving. I'm not sure if I used it properly because I don't see much under review.
Regardless, I don't have any codes after my ride. I took it for a good 40 min drive, speeds up to 60. I would have gone faster, but at 2000 RPM it felt kind of rough. I would get really close within the 2000 and you can feel a struggle, then the RPM's would go down after almost seemingly failing to operate 100%. I don't know if I'm describing this correctly.
I thought maybe it was a misfire, I just avoided going to 2000 RPM on majority of my ride. When accelerating uphill from 0, it was pretty rough.
Given that there's no codes, and with this feeling - what can I look out for? What sort of tests could I run on this CPR 123 to help me out?
Thank you!
PS. Let me know if you'd prefer I start a new thread.
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Tuesday, January 7th, 2020 AT 1:01 PM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,591 POSTS
Good on getting it out. Sounds like it didn't cure the entire problem though. I would probably take it out and try running it a bit harder to see if it will set a code. I'd hate to tell you to pull the plugs and clean or replace them or try something else without any clue as to where the issue might be. 2000 rpm is nothing for that engine so there has to be another problem.
If the tool supports it try recording the misfire data numbers and the MAP and ECT. Jeeps can take a while to set misfire codes, so run it a bit where it struggles, even shift it down so it hits those rpms earlier and see if it sets a code.
If the tool supports it try recording the misfire data numbers and the MAP and ECT. Jeeps can take a while to set misfire codes, so run it a bit where it struggles, even shift it down so it hits those rpms earlier and see if it sets a code.
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Tuesday, January 7th, 2020 AT 2:42 PM
CASMIHOK
- MEMBER
- 204 POSTS
Valvoline "topped off" my trans fluid, seems to be too much in there. Maybe causing the grinding. I first attempted to get some to leak out my pan, but no luck there. I also got two bolt holes stripped when putting em back in. I'm pretty confident they were bad to begin with, because they barely got tight. All the other ones I had no problem with.
So, I had to cancel my tires mounting this morning. Today, Ill search for some tubing to siphon out some fluid. As far as my pan goes, would it be terrible to drive it a few miles with two bolts missing? I have to re-thread the female thread, and I have never done that before and not sure I can get that done today. I have a rescheduled appointment for my tires tomorrow morning though. What do you think? Can I drive without the bolts for a few miles?
So, I had to cancel my tires mounting this morning. Today, Ill search for some tubing to siphon out some fluid. As far as my pan goes, would it be terrible to drive it a few miles with two bolts missing? I have to re-thread the female thread, and I have never done that before and not sure I can get that done today. I have a rescheduled appointment for my tires tomorrow morning though. What do you think? Can I drive without the bolts for a few miles?
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Wednesday, January 8th, 2020 AT 7:57 AM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,591 POSTS
You can but if they are close together you may get a leak. The easiest way would be to get a heli-coil kit in the correct size. They are available at most parts stores or even places like tractor supply or some lowes home depot places.
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Wednesday, January 8th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM
LOVEMYPATHFINDER
- MEMBER
- 1 POST
The crankshaft sensor can still be bad and waiting hours between starting, engine will turn over but will likely stall out because of the failing sensor.
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Tuesday, December 10th, 2024 AT 4:47 PM
STEVE W.
- MECHANIC
- 13,591 POSTS
You said you smoothed out the rust, Did you chip away the thicker rust that was under the sensor? If not pull it out, plug the hole and use a chisel or similar to knock the rust off. Then put the sensor back in and see if it will go past 2000 rpm. For the pan you can Heli-coil it, or as the rest of the engine looks that rusted you could try a pair of self-tapping hex bolts in the next size up.
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Tuesday, December 10th, 2024 AT 6:18 PM
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