I actually think your getting somewhere and I think the MAF is bad. It doesn't always set codes. Sometimes, like you, you can't even keep the engine running.
I don't think you've been "throwing money at it".
I would go ahead and replace the sensor.
There are still lots of things that can cause eratic idle. Let me ask a question. Were the plugs or wires replaced that you remember? Bad wires or bad routing of the wires is another cause. You can "inspect" the wires. e.g. look for burn marks, are they close to the engine block, are they separated, do adjacent firing cylinders or waste spark cylinders run next to one another, covered with oil etc.
A disconnected MAF will perform better than an bad MAF sensor, The engine doesn't necessarily run smooth. Like I said...it's "not quite right".
Your also now in a situation where you don't know if the "check engine" light is on or burned out. if you have an Autozone nearby, lay down a deposit and borrow the tool. Autozone has a lend-a-tool program. A deposit gets you a tool to use. There's no excuse not to borrow a scanner.
Another reminder is that with all of the stuff you have been doing, the car is likely in a state where it has fine tuned itself. Once you replace something after the check engine light has come on, you need a "drive cycle" for the ECM to say, I think the car is okay.
Even though the check engine light is not on, it can prevent you from passing emission inspections, Example...You replaced the battery. There is no check engine light, but it may fail emissions.
A drive cycle varies by manufacture, but usually the car has to have reached operating temperature and you have had to cruise at constant speed for a while.
Example, from this site, but not for your vehicle: https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2006-chevrolet-equinox-drive-cycle
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Sunday, June 7th, 2020 AT 12:38 PM
