Suddenly the engine it will crank but not start up?

CPT_HOSER

MEMBER
2 POSTS

I am thinking right now that it may be the fuel pump. I am now waiting for it to fail again to do further troubleshooting. It doesn't happen all the time. (Hard to fix something that works most of the time.)

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)

HMAC300

MECHANIC
48,601 POSTS

Then do the testing which I sent in last reply

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)

HMDFARM

MEMBER
1 POST
1992 FORD RANGER
2.3L
4 CYL
2WD
MANUAL
150,000 MILES

1992 ranger no start, cranks, seems to have low voltage; has spark from boot, fuel

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)

RONSON

MEMBER
77 POSTS

You basically only need two things. Spark and fuel. If you have spark you can try a shot of WD-40 into the intake and see if it fires, if so you can check you fuel system. If not check your upper cam pulley to be sure it's turning when you crank it. If it does not turn you may have broke a timing belt.

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)

MELINDA.BOWLIN

MEMBER
1 POST
1992 FORD RANGER
3.0L
6 CYL
2WD
150,000 MILES

Car won't start cranks over but won't start. Shuts off at stop signs and going down the road.

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:00 PM (Merged)

SCGRANTURISMO

MECHANIC
4,897 POSTS

Hello,

This could be from a couple of different things, your vehicle's Profile Ignition Pickup[PIP] or the Idle Air Control valve [IAC]. First let's start with the PIP which the Power-train Control Module [PCM] uses for ignition timing through the SPOUT. In the diagrams down below I have included the description and instructions on how to replace the PIP in your vehicle. Please go through these guides and get back to us with how everything turns out. We can go from there if necessary.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:01 PM (Merged)

MAXWALLACE

MEMBER
1 POST
1992 FORD RANGER
4 CYL
2WD
MANUAL
90,000 MILES

What first happened is my car would only idle as I drove down the street. It would sputter. That was over a month ago. It's like I wasn't getting any fuel. Now my vehicle doesn't want to run. It turns over, and sputters and then cuts out. Any idea of what this would be?

Thanks!

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:01 PM (Merged)

JEFFERYSG

MEMBER
2 POSTS

Your fuel filter could be clogged, which is the cheap and easy fix, mine is located on the left hand side of my truck mounted onto the frame, it might take a special tool thats only about 15 bucks and the fuel filter is very inexpensive. Or your fuel pump has gone out. You can get a pump for less than $100 but you will probably have to drop your fuel tank to replace because some genius thought it would be better to put the pumps inside the tank. Hope this helps you.

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:01 PM (Merged)

FORD RANGER 123

MEMBER
1 POST
1992 FORD RANGER
4.0L
V6
4WD
AUTOMATIC
65,000 MILES

Engine will crank but not start sometimes like it’s not getting fuel. Fuel pressure is good, pump is new, new fuel pressure regulator, new coil, plugs and wires also new battery. If the fuel pump continues to run with key on it will not start. If fuel pump primed then shuts off will start on its own and run fine. It’s sort of a quirky thing where if it doesn’t run right check engine is on, surges, then eventually high jump in rpms and then runs fine And check engine light goes out.I usually only have to use starting fluid when it does this and engine is cold, otherwise when it’s warm and I shut it off it will turn back on. If check engine is on and running rough when I turn it off if I start it right back up it will start but check and is still on and runs rough until it does the RPM jump I think it may be the computer whatever it is it’s making me crazy Any help is appreciated thanks.

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Tuesday, March 2nd, 2021 AT 7:01 PM (Merged)

ASEMASTER6371

MECHANIC
52,797 POSTS

Good morning.

The fuel pump should only run 2 seconds for priming.

It sounds like you have an issue with the ECM. The scan tools for the old systems did not give a lot of information for diagnostics.

Based on these results, it sounds like you need an ECM.

It is located in the right lower kick panel. I attached a picture for you.

Roy

The Electronic Control Assembly (ECA) stores information about vehicle operating conditions and uses this information to compensate for component tolerances. When an emission related component is replaced, Keep Alive Memory (KAM) should be cleared to erase the information stored by the processor from the original component.

To clear the KAM, disconnect the battery negative terminal for five minutes or more. Drive the the vehicle for at least ten miles to allow the ECA to relearn the values for optimum performance.
NOTE: During the ten mile relearn drive, the vehicle may exhibit some driveability symptoms. These should be eliminated when the KAM has relearned the operating values.

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