Radiator replacement?

So the radiator broke, and I replaced it myself. I've checked all the hoses and they're not leaking, it's not leaking anywhere. But it's still overheating when I rev it to 3,000 rpm's and keep it there. It wasn't doing this before the radiator broke. I used the right coolant and followed all the instructions to replace it, and it's not low on coolant. I don't know what's wrong.

I don't understand. Sorry. Do you want me to only remove the top radiator hose and the drain on the bottom, and then pour coolant through the top hose into the radiator? Aren't you not supposed to do that? And when you said: "until it runs out of where the hose attaches to the engine" did you mean the drain at the bottom or the lower radiator hose? Because there is a large top one and bottom one, and then two small ones on bottom for the transmission fluid.

Actually, you were right. I forgot to even add fluid to my radiator, and I didn't bleed the system at all. It works great now! Thanks!

Engine Cooling problem
2005 Hyundai Elantra Automatic 26800 miles

Driving on the hwy yesterday in my 2005 Hyundai Elantra (26.7k miles, second owner), when the a/c suddenly stopped blowing cool air. I instinctively looked at the temp gauge just as the needle was passing into the red marks. Began to pull over when I heard a "pop" and steam started coming out from under the hood. I stopped the car, turned it off, opened the hood, and saw the cap of the coolant reservoir (not the radiator cap) had popped off and the reservoir was empty. I waited about 15 minutes, started the car, temp gauge normal, drove about a quarter mile to a gas station, as I pull in temp gauge approaching red. Parked the car and had a friend drive me home.

Came back about 3 hours later and dove it home stopping every time the needle approached red marks - took about half an hour to go 2 miles.

This morning I opened the radiator cap, started topping off the coolant, and saw coolant leaking from an 8 inch crack running along the base of the inlet tank. Started the car, let it run for about 10 minutes, never got hot. I did hear a "clicking" noise coming from the engine itself that I have never heard before.

As the second owner, I was covered under the 5year/60,000 mile warranty until August 5th 2010 (24 days ago). On August 3rd, a local dealership replaced my cracked steering wheel under the warranty. At that time they did a "multi point inspection" with "checked and okay" marked for every inspection point, including "cooling system, a/c, and heating system, " "radiator, heater, a/c hoses, " and "accessory drive belts."

What is the best way to approach this issue with the dealership? Friends have told me about "goodwill" repairs being done when a car was just outside of the warranty period. Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated. Any ideas as to what the mechanism and sequence of this problem was would also be welcome.

Thanks for the quick reply!
So any ideas on the clicking noise? Seems ominous to me. Just wondering if it means something else was damaged by the surge in temperature.
Also, I was just wondering if any American technicians have any input about how dealerships in the U.S.A. Normally respond to situations like this.

2005 Hyundai Elantra 4 cyl 62000 miles

i have replaced the upper radiator tube due to 1 leak: now there is a radiator leak also for it is smoking from the bottom left of the car if you are facing it head on. Does this sound familiar to anyone?

I'm a newbie and made a newbie mistake replacing the radiator on my car listed above. I didn't take close enough notice when I took off the transmission cooler hoses and now can't tell which is which to attach to the right fittings on the new radiator. Can a pro please tell me from where they attach to the transmission down to the cooler which is which? Like, does the right from the trans attach to the right on the cooler or do they cross over? Really don't want to mess up my transmission by attaching outflow to inflow and vice versa.

Can the radiator be repaired if it is leaking from the seam at the top of the radiator where the tank meets with the core?

Thank you first of all for answering my question. The leak I'm reffering to is right at the seam up top where the plastic meets the aluminum. It seems to have seperated itself. I got a price on a brand new one with a 1 yr. Warranty for 135.00. That's with overnight shipping included. So I guess its a no brainer. Do you think I can get away with driving it to and from work for the next six days if I put water in it each time. It seems to leak only after I shut the car down and the pressure builds.

Engine overheated without warning, and seam where top of radiator meets cooling fins developed an approximate 1/2" long leak. Is this a repairable leak or would it be more effective to replace the radiator with a new one with a lifetime warranty? Wonder if overheating may have been caused perhaps by thermostat that didn't open, causing engine to overheat and perhaps build pressure in cooling system that may have burst the seam. Your thoughts on these questions would be greatly appreciated so that I may understand the problem and what may be the root cause.

Martin Semien