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Radiator fan (low and high speed) not turning on?

Tiny
ALOHA168
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD ESCORT
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
I replaced the coolant temperature sensor because I thought it wasn't turning on my fan when the temperature was reached. Actually, my old one was still good which I found out later. After I replaced it (plug and play job), it was very hard to start the engine so I hard to put the old one back. After that, my radiator fan (low speed) won't turn on again even when the temperature was reached. And I tried to turn on the A/C and I could see my A/C clutch did not engage nor the high-speed fan will turn on. I have removed the fan and tested the low and high speed with a 12V battery and they both work. I also tried to short out the 2 pins to the coolant sensor, but the low speed won't turn on. I have replaced the CCRM (Z refurbed by Cardone)) 2 times and nothing changed. I'm totally lost in troubleshooting this problem now. Could this be the PCM/ECM problem, or should I try with a genuine Z CCRM from a junk yard/eBay? If I replace the PCM, do I need to re-program it?
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Wednesday, March 13th, 2024 AT 5:36 PM

31 Replies

Tiny
BORIS K
  • MECHANIC
  • 798 POSTS
Hello,

I would suggest first checking the cooling fan fuse, 40A, in the engine compartment fuse block.
This fuse supplies constant 12V to pins 3+4, black/orange wire, at the CCRM.
Check that the fuse is good and that you have 12V at both pins of the CCRM.
See image 1 below.

Regarding A/C compressor not kicking in I suggest to first check air con fuse (15A) in instrument panel fuse block.
This fuse supplies ignition 12V on white wire to the A/C control panel
The A/C control panel supplies 12V out at orange wire to the A/C low pressure switch.
If there is sufficient refrigerant in the A/C system this switch will output the 12V on green/red wire to the PCM pin 41 and to the WAC relay in the CCRM module.
I suggest checking that there is 12V at the A/C control panel when the AC is switched on that there is 12V at the orange wire at the A/C low pressure switch.
check that there is 12V outgoing at the A/C low pressure switch on the green/red wire.
See image 2.

How to check voltage using either test light or voltmeter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester
and
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

How to check fuse:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

How to test wiring:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Cheers, Boris
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 5:20 AM
Tiny
ALOHA168
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  • 52 POSTS
I checked the 40A cooling fan fuse and the 15A AC fuse and both are good. I also got my 12V at pins 3, 4, 10 and 11at the CCRM (hot at all times). My main concern now is to get the low-speed fan to turn on when the temperature is reached. I'll work on the A/C (high speed) fan after the low speed is fixed. Since my low-speed fan doesn't turn on, does that mean the PCM is not sending the fan control signal to the CCRM (pin 14)? Please give me guidance on how to troubleshoot. I have not touched any of the existing wiring in my car except the connector at the CCRM for testing. I doubt that this is a Ground issue either. It all started after I tried to replace my coolant temperature sensor.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 3:45 PM
Tiny
BORIS K
  • MECHANIC
  • 798 POSTS
Hello,

I would suggest checking the pink/white and red/black wires from the PCM to CCRM.
See image below.

How to test wire:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Also check if you apply a separate ground to pin 14 at CCRM if the low speed fan, then turns on. For this test the ignition needs to be on.

If it does and the wiring between the PCM and CCRM is intact, then this would point to a possible PCM issue.

A replacement PCM would require VIN programming.
I found a company which offers preprogrammed PCM.

https://carcomputerexchange.com/ford/escort/1999-ford-escort-2-0l-pcm-ecm-engine-computer/prod_1976.html

Cheers, Boris
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Friday, March 15th, 2024 AT 4:04 AM
Tiny
ALOHA168
  • MEMBER
  • 52 POSTS
On checking the wiring between the PCM and CCRM, I need to figure out how to remove the center console. I could not find any videos online; do you have any procedure on this? On applying a Ground to pin 14 of the CCRM, do I do it with the CCRM unplugged or plugged in? It seems that the whole circuit all has to be connected in order for this to work. I'm a little confused here.
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Friday, March 15th, 2024 AT 1:04 PM
Tiny
ALOHA168
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  • 52 POSTS
Okay, I figured out how to apply Ground to pin 14 of the CCRM plugged in. I used a straightened paper clip and pushed it in from the other end of the plug. I pushed in about 1 inch into pin 14 and I could feel the metal inside. I tried this at pin 3 and 11 and I got 12V. With the ignition on and Ground touching pin 14, the low-speed fan still won't turn on. Does that mean my CCRM is bad? I scanned with my OBD2 scanner and there were no codes, and the engine runs fine, just the fans won't come on. Plus, I didn't mess with any wiring, so the chances of a bad PCM is very low. If I can't get this to work, can I make a circuit using the temperature sensor and a relay and wire directly to the low-speed fan just to get it to work temporarily?
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Friday, March 15th, 2024 AT 2:11 PM
Tiny
ALOHA168
  • MEMBER
  • 52 POSTS
I opened up the radiator fan and checked for Ground at the connector terminals and I could find no Ground on any of the pins. I've found a picture of the connector online (attached). Is the black wire the Ground? My connector was all wrapped up and in a very tight space. According to the first picture you sent, it's BK and connects to J/C6, G100 on the left front of the engine. This is a very crowded area in my car, do you know where exactly/approximately it's at and what to look for?If I can't find it, can I just run a separate Ground wire straight to the connector? I hope this is my actual problem, if not, I'll have to start all over again.
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Sunday, March 17th, 2024 AT 4:37 PM
Tiny
BORIS K
  • MECHANIC
  • 798 POSTS
Hello,

Yes, the black wire at the cooling fan connector is the ground, see image below.
You could run a separate ground; this is often easier than trying to trace/find a break in the wiring.

Cheers, Boris
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Wednesday, March 20th, 2024 AT 9:51 AM
Tiny
ALOHA168
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  • 52 POSTS
I was wrong because I used a poor ground for reference. I checked again the next day with the battery ground and a bare metal chassis for reference and I could get a solid ground at the black wire. Well, back to square one again. I ordered a CCRM on eBay and it'll arrive this Friday. Hopefully this is it.
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Wednesday, March 20th, 2024 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
BORIS K
  • MECHANIC
  • 798 POSTS
Hello,

Thank you for the feedback, please let us know if you require any further assistance.

Cheers, Boris
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Thursday, March 21st, 2024 AT 5:09 AM
Tiny
ALOHA168
  • MEMBER
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The CCRM came early today. After I installed it, I got exactly the same result as my original one. Neither low nor high speed fan would come on.I'm lost, can a 'reman' CCRM be bad or what else should I check?
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Thursday, March 21st, 2024 AT 12:57 PM
Tiny
ALOHA168
  • MEMBER
  • 52 POSTS
I applied a ground to pin 14 of the CCRM (with ignition in ON position) and the low-speed fan still doesn't turn on. I have constant 12V at pin 3. If the CCRM is good, shouldn't the low-speed fan turn on? Because we're not using the ground from the PCM. A little confused here. Or with the ground applied at pin 14 and ignition on, I should get 12V at pin 1 and 2?
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Thursday, March 21st, 2024 AT 5:46 PM
Tiny
BORIS K
  • MECHANIC
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Hello,

The theory is with ignition on engine fuse (15A) in instrument panel fuse block provides 12V to pin 13, black/white wire, at CCRM.
This will trigger the PCM power relay which in turn supplies 12V to fuel pump relay, control inside CCRM (solid state relay), HFC relay and LFC relay.
The low-speed fan (LFC) control is via a commanded ground from the internal CCRM (Solid State) LFC control. This is applied externally from the PCM at pin 14 of the CCRM. The LFC relay is then switched on and supplies 12V out at pins 1+2, green/yellow wire.
The high-speed fan (HFC) relay is triggered directly by the PCM at pin 17 at the CCRM.
This then triggers the HFC relay and 12V is output at pins 6+7, yellow wire.

Cheers, Boris
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Friday, March 22nd, 2024 AT 2:36 AM
Tiny
ALOHA168
  • MEMBER
  • 52 POSTS
I connected a chassis ground to pin 14 of the CCRM with the ignition ON but I still got no 12V at pin 1 or 2. This should eliminate a PCM problem, correct? I look at the CCRM diagram, pin 14 goes to solid state(LFC relay control) which connects to 1 side of the LFC relay coil, and the other side is connected to pins 12 and 24(engine control system) which should be a 12V in order to operate the LFC relay so that it will connect pin 3/4 12V to pin 1/2. Does that mean the solid state inside the CCRM is bad? What should I get at pin 12/24 with the ignition on? This is a 'reman' CCRM from A1 Cardone, they're supposed to test it at the factory before they sell it to the customer and let them do the testing.
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Friday, March 22nd, 2024 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
ALOHA168
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  • 52 POSTS
Since my fuel pump is working which is powered by the fuel pump relay which connects to pin 12/24. And I manually connect a ground to pin 14 which connects to the solid state. Does this narrow down to a defective solid state? How does this solid state function?
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Friday, March 22nd, 2024 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
ALOHA168
  • MEMBER
  • 52 POSTS
I ordered a CCRM from a junk yard (from a working car) that looks exactly like my original one. After installation, it works the same as my original and the A1 Cardone one and my fans are still not working. I tested my CCRM connector(unplugged) for voltages/grounds/continuity and I got all the expected results. Now I doubt the problem is with the CCRM.
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Thursday, March 28th, 2024 AT 2:02 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
You are losing power are ground somewhere I would go over the wire testing guide above and the wiring diagrams Boris has provided to double check and test the power and grounds. I don't think there is a problem is with the CCRM. There must be a wire that is broken or a bad connection.
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Saturday, March 30th, 2024 AT 10:32 AM
Tiny
ALOHA168
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I need to check my coolant temperature sensor again.I searched online but found different values. Can you give me the correct resistance from 32 degrees F to room temp and 212 degrees F?
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Thursday, April 4th, 2024 AT 4:03 PM
Tiny
ALOHA168
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  • 52 POSTS
Also this sensor senses various voltages from the PCM. What is the proper procedure for this test?
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Thursday, April 4th, 2024 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
They don't give us those tests in Alldata, but I do know that if you over tighten the sensor, it can break internally. I would get a new sensor and compare the two. Check out the images (below). Let us know how it goes.
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Friday, April 5th, 2024 AT 9:01 AM
Tiny
ALOHA168
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I have tested the wiring between the PCM and CCRM and ECT. All modules unplugged and battery disconnected.I found PCM pin 71 was actually connected to CCRM pin 24. And PCM pin 97 was also connected to CCRM pin 24. CCRM pin 12 and 24 are connected internally. Everything else checked out good EXCEPT PCM pin 41 to CCRM pin 21 which I found it OPEN.I checked the wire from both ends and they have the same color and gauge which means it should be a straight wire. Could it be a fuse inside blown causing this OPEN?Pin 21/22 of CCRM is for the AC clutch. Should I just run a new wire to replace it?
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Thursday, April 11th, 2024 AT 6:56 PM

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