pressing accelerator causes electrical short

PS Timing belt was replaced on schedule. Serpentine belt was replaced a couple months ago. New brakes on all four tires were done at the same time. All four tires are one month old.

Hello, so there is no 2.3-liter V6 Santa Fe, I think you mean 2.7Liter. And is this the GLS or LX model? I will try to help you out, but if you had a wire shorting out, it would most likely blow a fuse.
There is a 2.4-liter engine
Also, some more information would help, is this possibly a very fast clicking noise? And where exactly is the noise coming from?

It's a GLS not LX. okay, maybe it's a 2.4 liter. The noise sounds like it's coming from near where the glovebox is. It didn't sound like clicks; it literally sounds like something electric sounding shorting out. I don't know how else to describe it. I looked at more stories online. Could this be caused by dirt in my fuel injectors, and should I try adding fuel injector cleaner? Also, I had AC replaced over the summer. Recently I have been driving with heat and or defrost when I start the car in the mornings. Thanks very much!

Well, i don't think it has anything to do with injectors, how does the car run in general? is it rough at idle? And for your noise, are you saying something like a zapping type noise?
So, it must be the 2.7-liter engine, that's the only GLS. Is this automatic transmission or standard shift?
And do you smell anything funny? Like electrical burn type smell? If there was an electrical short happening, you would smell it.
If you open the hood, do you hear anything in the engine compartment, with the vehicle in Neutral and parking brake on for safety. Have someone push on the throttle and see if you hear anything in the engine compartment.
Because we can only go by what you tell us. If possible, make a video with your phone or someway so we can hear the noise and upload it here.
And does this happen when the vehicle is sitting still, and you push on the throttle, or does it need to be moving to happen? Every little detail helps. Try to record the noise somehow as well. video, whatever works for you.

It's an automatic with control trac that you can convert to manual in a couple speeds. I just went and started it up in park. I didn't smell anything -. When I pressed the accelerator, I was unable to recreate the sound multiple times. I drove it about 10-15 MPH and didn't hear the zappy sound or smell burning. I accelerated to 35 MPH, and then I started hearing it again, as well as I did indeed smell burning. What do you think? Thank you!

Forgot to say, the car generally runs fine. I've never had any major issue with it and follow the recommended maintenance schedule/keep up on my oil changes.

If you did smell electrical burn, then yes that's a major concern. it's hard to say what it can be, cars have miles of wiring in them, are you able to take a drive with someone who can do a video so we can at least hear the sound.
The only real part of the electrical system behind the glove box area is the blower motor for the heating and A/C system. Does this vehicle have Automatic HVAC or Manual? Meaning can you set the temperatures different for the driver side and the passenger side?
The technical service bulletin (first pic) is for poor Ground wire issues that can cause the blower motor or headlights to have issues. But what you're describing sounds more like a power wire shorting to ground somewhere in a circuit before the fuse, that's the only way a short to ground would happen. Otherwise, a fuse would blow.

The blower motor doesn't have different adjustments for driver and passenger
Do you think I should just have it towed to a shop at this point? I'm getting concerned re driving with the burning smell-I can see if I can keep my cell recording driving myself, in a minute but don't want to endanger anyone asking them to ride with. Two other very recent details: 1: I had asked the place I bought my new tires this summer to check air pressure and tighten the lug nuts 12 days ago, since a couple months had passed since buying new tires

2: while driving a couple weeks ago, I hit a puddle that was in a dip, though I didn't notice the strange sound until about 2 days ago. I'll go try to record doing a lap at 35 mph and hope phone keeps filming/recording-not sure this will work but will attempt it. Thank you!

Ha! Just got a decent recording! Sending now.

yeah, it's just real tough to tell what's going on from my standpoint but having anything electrical burning is definitely not a safe thing. There are just too many possibilities of what it could be. I have seen vehicles with power steering fluid leak just catch on fire, even though it wasn't even running. It was leaking onto the exhaust and at our shop it was outside and happened just sitting there. It's not exactly the same as your issue but you get the point. Always better to be safe. If it's that dangerous, don't drive it. If you can't get a video, it's okay, just don't risk your own safety over it.

okay, I will take a look at it and get back to you.

here's 1 recording-had to reenter it there are two more. this one is the shuffling sound video; sorry it didn't upload right first. Video #3 you can really hear sound the best.

I don't see any recordings.

here's recording #2:

here's recording #3 one of the 3 recordings sounded like a "shuffling noise" when replayed, which is not how it sounds in the car-the other 2 recordings captured the zapping sound better, 1 better than the other.

#3 is the best clip to hear the sound!

Also #1 won't load, sorry, I tried again. Now that I got help going a block, I totally do of course want to hear your opinion! Thank you!

Okay, that to me sounds like a relay turning on and off really fast, that's not an electricity jumping to ground. What an automotive relay does is turns on a high current circuit using a low current circuit. They do this so that things like computers in the car can turn on Higher current circuits without damaging the computer. Relays over time develop carbon build up on the contacts and this causes them to not be able to keep their connections made. Thats what I am hearing, although I'm not in the car with you. So, what ever circuit this relay controls may not be shutting down because the circuit is not really being turned off, it's on again, off again, on again, off again, and happening so fast that the component it controls just isn't shutting down. For instance, if that was controlling your heater blower motor, it's just not fully losing power as an example. But it will need to be diagnosed since it's hard to tell which side its actually coming from. But I have heard them do that many times. It's a sign of it starting to fail. I would also have the charging system checked, specifically that the alternator is not putting out any AC voltage ripple and it's putting out the correct DC voltage. But take it to a technician you trust. Don't let them sell you a bunch of stuff you don't need, if you're in doubt of what they say, just ask us. We're always honest here. We're not selling anything. Just helping people. Here's a guide to relays except yours is under the dash somewhere. Most likely in the fuse panel. If you can access it while this is happening, you'll be able to feel the relay itself doing this. Added a picture of an automotive relay too.

Let me just add that if there is a loose ground wire for this relay, it will cause the same condition.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Thanks for all that! so, do you think an alternator shop could fix this?
and based on what you're saying, possibly not the most dangerous?
and do you think if this shop has reasonable rates, it might not cost me an arm and a leg to fix? (I'm hoping so)

PS-it is a trusted shop and where I bought my alternator too.

PSS: Thanks so much for being car angels!!

If they can do diagnostic work, an oscilloscope is needed to check Alternator AC ripple.
You can explain the situation and see what they say. I only mention the Alternator because that and the battery can cause so many more problems than people realize. If there is low system voltage for one, then all the voltage in the whole car is going to be low. AC ripple destroys Automotive computers because they are designed for DC voltage only. I'm sure an Alternator shop does more than just charging systems.
What you can do is on your way to the shop, turn some things off, see if the clicking stops.
It should not cost much to replace a $15.00 relay: they just need to figure out which one it is. Going through the wiring diagrams I could probably tell you how many are under the dash, but they can take care of that. I'm assuming the reason it's happening more when you accelerate is the alternator is putting out more current, and this relay is warming up faster and the problem is presenting itself more. Unless it's a bad ground wire that's just vibrating more with the engine at higher RPMs, so 2 scenarios there. But i don't think and hope it doesn't cost you much at all.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-car-battery

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-electrical-system-works

I am so glad I found you! Thank you so very much for all the time you spent helping me today! You have given me hope that this isn't the end, and I can manage (hopefully) the expense and go to the right place even having a clue I might know what's wrong, which is way better than usual. I don't mean to be religious, but may you be blessed.! Also, I'm on permanent disability SSDI. However, in case I come into any money, do you have a link that accepts donations, because I'd sure like to give back when I'm able to, or nominate others to donate to you as a good cause, I can't thank you enough :) BBW54321

I appreciate the thought but save your money to fix your car. I'm a religious person too, so no worries. I do hope the fix is cheap for you, having to do diagnostics from such a distance like this is not always easy. I do mobile diagnostics here in my area (NC), but here we have to go by what the person tells us they hear or are experiencing. So, it can be difficult. But I do really appreciate the thought. Thats good enough for me. I hope it goes well and let us know what the actual issue was. We like a follow-up when possible. I just hope Im not too far off on my diagnoses. =)

Thanks very much again! So, it turns out that the strange noise was actually being made by a tab on the rear-view mirror! The shop didn't even charge me for the diagnosis, and I am extremely grateful!! So, the very strange issue ended up not being something serious, and your terrific help brought goodness!! May you remain wonderfully blessed and stay healthy please!

A tab on the rear-view mirror huh. well, that's a first for me. Sounded exactly like a relay from the video, but I'm glad they didn't charge you anything. it does get tough to diagnose things not being at the car. But I'm glad it worked out good for you. Have a nice evening.