Intermittent PCM power loss

Tiny
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  • 2006 CHRYSLER PT CRUISER
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 106,000 MILES
What is the voltage drop allowed for PCM powers and grounds? My PCM loses power. Sometime it is intermittent and get two codes p1603 and p0882.
Saturday, September 2nd, 2017 AT 1:51 PM

32 Replies

Tiny
HARRY P
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Unfortunately, it appears that Chrysler has not supplied that information. At least not anywhere that I can find it. From my research, the P1603 code is the one to address. It points to an internal fault in the PCM. That fault is also probably the cause of the p0882 code (from the TCM). I am including what information that has been provided in the images below. Hope it helps.
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Saturday, September 2nd, 2017 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
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Last year the PCM was replaced because of those codes. After replacing it the only code that came back is the p0882 recently p1603 showed up. And they shows up when the weather is hot. So I think its related to heat. I did voltage drop for PCM grounds it was 25 mv however power sides were 74 mv, 255 mv, 320 mv 95 mv 79mv those are for all hot wires.
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Sunday, September 3rd, 2017 AT 1:14 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Hmmm Honestly the best that I can tell you is that you need to start from the beginning again. I would do the test suggested in the images to see if the PCM is bad and then go from there. I'm betting on a problem with it.
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Sunday, September 3rd, 2017 AT 2:26 PM
Tiny
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I did those tests and the computer has powers and grounds.

The instruction after says check for bad connections how to do that?

I remember I have seen a video a guy used a tool like needles has different thickness and insert them in the computer females pins and check for dhow much a pin drags and compare it to the other pins. Can you tell me what they call that tool please?
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Sunday, September 3rd, 2017 AT 7:49 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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That tool is a PCM pinout tool, and it costs about $300. Here is a link to one: https://www.handsontools.com/Miller-Mopar-Tools-8815-1-PCM-Pinout-Box-Adapter-_p_35916.html. Short of buying that, the best thing that you can do is to follow the wiring yourself and closely inspect it. In particular, look at the power and ground circuits. You can also use a multi-meter to check resistances along those same circuits. Excessive resistance means that there is an open circuit. Repair it and your problem should be solved. If you cannot find any problem with resistance in the wiring, then your issue is in the PCM itself.
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Monday, September 4th, 2017 AT 4:26 AM
Tiny
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Thank you the tool I m talking about is a lot of needle it like the one dentist uses when when do a root canal. And you stick those needle in female connector and check how much drag it is. If there is no drag means the female pin is loose.
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Monday, September 4th, 2017 AT 8:56 AM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Honestly we're a little out of my comfort area here. I'm going to phone a friend and see if we can come up with what you're referencing.
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Monday, September 4th, 2017 AT 7:35 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Ok here's what I found out. What you're talking about is a Terminal test set / drag testers. Basically a set of wires with the known size of connector pin on the end. They come in handy for things like loose relay sockets, loose ECM wiring and more. Useful on the weatherpack and metripack style multi-pin connectors where one of the pins may carry a lot of current and overheated the spring tension or someone has been probing the pins with a bit of force.

https://www.aeswave.com/uTest-Advanced-Terminal-Test-Kit-p9573.html

You can make a set yourself. The way to make them is to strip a few connectors. Pick out the male pins that are clean and you have some drag test pins. You can buy lab quality ones that they use in the factories when making the connectors but those are solid metal shaped sort of like a multimeter probe. They are not field friendly because you need to be VERY careful inserting them and they are un-insulated.

This is almost word-for-word what I was told. Hope it helps you out.
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Tuesday, September 5th, 2017 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
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Thank you. So far the car is not throwing out those codes I disconnected all pcm connectors and clean them with contact cleaner and disconnected connector goes to solenoid pack, and others on transmission and clean them with the same cleaner I don t know if I can tell you the brand in this website but I heard it works very well
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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Please do tell us what cleaner you used. Especially if it works.
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Wednesday, September 6th, 2017 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
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It's called Deoxit musicians use it to fix scratchy potsit. It suppose to remove corrosion and improve contact.I saw video where mechanich use it to fix high resistance in abs connector
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Friday, September 8th, 2017 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Good to know. I'm going to store that little nugget of information in my head. Thanks.
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Friday, September 8th, 2017 AT 6:55 PM
Tiny
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Here is the link of the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITBwoFq_zps&t=1s

its called " DeoxIT treatment to repair a CAN network problem (3 of 4)"

I will let you know if the codes come back hopefully not
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Sunday, September 10th, 2017 AT 7:59 AM
Tiny
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The code p0882 is back. However p1603 is not. What you think?
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Tuesday, November 7th, 2017 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Here's your thread from a couple of years. The info is still good. https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2006-chrysler-pt-cruiser-p0882

Check the power and grounds to the pcm
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Wednesday, November 8th, 2017 AT 1:46 PM
Tiny
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I did they are good. What I think is the code comes when its hot either the weather or use the car a lot.
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Thursday, November 9th, 2017 AT 8:49 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Usually that means that there's some corrosion in the power circuit somewhere (either in the hot lead or the ground lead), or some other type of problem with the power or ground. There pretty much has to be something going on there. I know you did it all a while back, but since the code went away for as long as it did, you kind of have to start the diagnostic process over. It's a pain, but that's the best way to do it.
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Friday, November 10th, 2017 AT 3:35 AM
Tiny
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Ok I will check it again plus I will do voltage drop test for the T15 circuit wire its the feed back to the pcm from the tipm
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Saturday, November 11th, 2017 AT 9:12 PM
Tiny
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I checked powers and ground they are fine. Voltage drop is around 37 mv and when radiator fan on is around 60 mv. I checked also T16 circuit the feed back to the pcm at the pcm I back probed the two red wires it has battery voltage when key on engine off. And charging voltage 14.5 when engine is running. Now the check engine is off and no codes
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Sunday, November 12th, 2017 AT 5:56 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Sorry I just got the message. Seems like one of the wires must have a weak connection. Whatever you did might've tightened up or just gotten into a good position temporarily. Cross your fingers and hope the code stays away
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Tuesday, November 14th, 2017 AT 5:09 AM

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