Code P0421 catalytic converter

Tiny
STEVE W.
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That system should be working in about 45 seconds to a minute. You can see it starting to get warm in the third frame. What you don't want to see is that last frame.
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 6:27 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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It's weird because I don't appear to have any actual catalytic converter related symptoms, i.E. Loss of power or black smoke. I guess I'll have Midas do further testing on it during my next oil change in 1,000 miles.
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 10:04 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Alright, so I looked at the Liqui Moly product a little further. So you got to buy a chemical pressure sprayer too and it goes directly into the exhaust line, and burns up in the catalytic converter. This seems much more likely to succeed than something you'd pour into the gas tank.
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
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Hello again.

Yes, it's very simple and effective. I've used it numerous times as I've stated. All you do is buy a cheap Hudson sprayer from home depot for $10.00. Just remove the pre-catalytic converter Ho2 sensor and spray the contents into the exhaust pipe. I've attached a picture of a Hudson sprayer below. Hope this helps and keep us updated as what you decide to do. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Sunday, August 16th, 2020 AT 11:29 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Usually you don't get the classic symptoms if the system has dual converters like yours. They only monitor the upstream unit on many vehicles like that. So the upstream unit starts to go bad, but the second unit still cleans up the exhaust. Plus from the way yours is acting it is still working a bit, just not enough to keep the sensors happy. I have seen many other failed converters that show none of the classic signs either, if the engine is running correctly and in good shape many times you see nothing. Usually the signs are really the issue that made the converter fail in the first place, like bad piston rings that were causing the engine to burn oil, but the smoke was cleaned up in the converter, or the bad injector that caused the converter to burn up and now you smell the rotten eggs and see the black smoke of a rich running engine once the converter finally fails.
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Monday, August 17th, 2020 AT 5:56 AM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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I'm not losing much oil. I do know the valve cover gasket was leaking. But I think it may have sealed back up with the dried oil.

I bought a bottle of that Liqui Moly catalytic converter cleaner, waiting for it to be delivered. The fact it's sprayed directly into the exhaust stream makes it seem much more likely to succeed. Also since I'd have to replace two converters, I'm willing to try anything else first that isn't replacing them both.
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Monday, August 17th, 2020 AT 2:11 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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You don't have to replace both. The front one is the only one that has sensors. The rear one just goes along for the ride. If you look at where the O2 sensors are sensor 1 is before the converter while sensor 2 is in front of the second unit in the pipe between them. If they did tailpipe sniffing then maybe replace it if you fail.
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Monday, August 17th, 2020 AT 4:02 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
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Hello again.

Well, it might be a long shot to try the liqui moly to help save you money as opposed to buying new catalytic converters. Yes, they can be quite expensive so I understand your dilemma. Keep us updated as to how things turn out. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Tuesday, August 18th, 2020 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Yeah we shall see. Would you mind telling me exactly which hose I should be spraying it into?
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Tuesday, August 18th, 2020 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
DANNY L
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Hello again.

All you will need to do is gain access to the exhaust pipe under your car. Just unscrew the pre-catalytic converter oxygen sensor and remove. Using a Hudson style sprayer or something comparable empty the liqui moly can contents directly into the exhaust pipe. Re-install the oxygen sensor. Directions are on the can. I believe you run the cars engine for 15 minutes to cycle through the catalytic converter. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Tuesday, August 18th, 2020 AT 12:42 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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If this car has the dual units on it, which a California car came with, you don't need to go under the car to get to the pipe, the first O2 sensor should be under the hood in the exhaust manifold between the engine and the radiator. Then you would spray the product into the sensors bung then replace the sensor and start the engine. Do not forget to put the sensor in as the exhaust pressure could spray it all back out and cause a real mess. The downstream sensor is behind the converter being monitored in the pipe that leads to the second converter. This was a common thing on many vehicles. They would install a converter close to the engine. Then they would do testing and discover that those units were good enough for the federal requirements, but didn't do so well with the stricter sniffer testing in California so they added the second converter in the pipe farther back to finish scrubbing the gasses. On more modern vehicles they monitor all of the converters so a modern 4 cylinder can have the dual converter system but will have a bank one sensor one then a sensor 2 and a sensor 3 as well with 2 being between the two converters like yours and sensor 3 being in the pipe between the second converter and the muffler. Larger engines can be even more interesting with a couple that have 3 converters on each bank of cylinders.
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Tuesday, August 18th, 2020 AT 1:16 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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I believe that exhaust manifold is behind a heavy duty heat shield. If you Google "LIQUI MOLY Catalytic-System Cleaner (#8931)", the first video that comes up appears to show it being sprayed into where the air intake hose connects to the engine. It says to spray it into the intake tract at regular intervals with the engine running between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM's, not to spray it all in at once first.
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
4DRTOM
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Hello,

Maybe look into a programmable chip for it and lean out the mixture. I don't believe there all that expensive now.

Tom
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Thursday, August 20th, 2020 AT 11:26 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
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Hello again.

Yes, I watched the video. They just used a vacuum source to introduce the cleaner through the system with the engine running. They varied the amount and increased the engine rpm's to not stall the engine out. That way is just as effective. I personally introduce directly into the exhaust system. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 10:15 AM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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I have the Liqui Moly product but still haven't tried running it through the car yet. In addition to the P0421 code, I now I have P0135 and P0442. I was told P0135 may be related to the catalytic converter as well, or just a bad O2 sensor. P0442 I've been chasing down for years though. First I replaced the gas cap with a third party one, and it came back. So then I tried an official Mitsubishi gas cap, and that didn't get rid of it either. From doing some digging this can be a very hard code to get rid of. Any ideas on these 2 new codes?
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2021 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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The P0135 is an O2 heater circuit code for sensor bank one. So it's the sensor before the converter that is giving the P0421. I would look at the wiring to it to be sure it isn't damaged or shorted. It won't be the reason for the 421 code though.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2021 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
KIWASABI1
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Could you discuss the possible sources of the small evap leak for 442?

We already concluded 421 is caused by one of the catalytic converters (my car has 2) since I actually did a live data reading with a scan tool and Danny told me the catalyst is definitely not performing correctly. But I have no symptoms of a clogged exhaust system, so it seems to imply the 2nd catalyst is taking care of the hydrocarbons. It's just that the o2 sensor only senses that the first one isn't working properly.
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2021 AT 11:16 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
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Hello again.

I will be with you in the morning when my references are working again properly. Thank you for your patience.

Danny-
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Wednesday, August 11th, 2021 AT 11:43 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Correct in that the P0421 is a bad bank one cat, the P0135 is the heater circuit for the first O2 sensor on that same converter. The two are only related in that they are the same bank.

As for the EVAP leak code, site policy is to keep different issues as separate questions to make site searches easier. So please use the link below to ask that as a different topic. Thank you.
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new
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Thursday, August 12th, 2021 AT 12:00 AM
Tiny
DANNY L
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Hello again.

I've attached picture diagnostic steps below relating to code P0135. As far as code P0421 that is a separate issue and will need to be addressed in a new question.

Here is the new question link:

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Hope this helps and let us know if you have any further questions on this issue. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Sunday, August 15th, 2021 AT 7:01 AM

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