Number two cylinder misfire

Tiny
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Other than that it drove pretty awesome, but the light started flashing and it threw that code.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2020 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
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When it was open loop fault it was running great. But it started up cold again and stayed in closed-loop and still has a misfire code. Plus it's running pretty rough now.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2020 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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If it ran okay but then through the fault was that with the new coil or original? New plugs or the ones that were in it?
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Sunday, December 13th, 2020 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
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New plugs, new coil, new wires and it still threw the cylinder 2 misfire code. But it still started up rough then I let it warm up to op temperature and then drove it and it was fine. But it said old fault, but I let it sit a while and tried again in closed loop. If that makes a difference and it ran rough. I would have to feather gas pedal to get it going.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2020 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
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Remind you it has new fuel pump and filter and when it had a half a tank of gas I put additives in the tank to clean the exhaust and additives to clean the injectors. I'm thinking it might have been too much for half a tank of gas, but now I'm below an eighth of a tank. So I figured I'd put gas in it and see what happens then.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2020 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Well, with a new coil and plugs the next step would be to actually flow test the injectors, or a test by swapping the one in cylinder 2 over to another cylinder. That would also let you look at the part number and see which ones it has in it. You already did the compression test so I would say the valves and such are okay. Not much else that can cause a misfire left.
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Sunday, December 13th, 2020 AT 7:02 PM
Tiny
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Well, after everything I have done to that vehicle the #2 misfire is persistent and always comes back. So it has to do with that cylinder i'm guessing. When I check the injector, even if it's working does that mean it can still be clogged because it has that same distinct noise just like the others when I check them.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 8:33 AM
Tiny
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I pulled #2 plug and it has gas all over the end of it but the porcelain is black meaning it may be running rich. What I am asking is, can an injector dump too much gas in that particular cylinder? Would I need another injector or o rings? I am going to do the injector swap today to make sure.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
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I just pulled injectors and the number on it came up with this. I have not rotated injectors yet but I thought you might be able to shed some light on what year motor the injector belongs to.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 1:32 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Okay, if the plug was wet that injector is likely bad. The black is from excess fuel and it sounds like it is sticking open. OEM number for the injectors for the 2.0 is 35310-23210.
So I think you found the culprit. Because the other plugs looked dark as well I'm going to say someone stuck a set of salvage yard injectors into it and were not real particular about what part they used. Then one of them failed and is dumping a lot of extra fuel into the engine and that is also why the trims are so high, it is trying to lean out the mix because of the extra fuel. I would probably replace all 4 with the correct part numbers and do an oil change as it's very likely the oil now has a lot of gas in it.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 2:23 PM
Tiny
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That must be where my excessive gray or white smoke is coming from through the exhaust.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 3:35 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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That would do it. If even one injector is dumping fuel it will signal that the engine is running rich and try to lean it out. You mentioned some cleaner in the fuel, it's possible the cleaner did it's job and flushed the dirt out of the system and it got stuck in the injector and is preventing it from sealing, It would still click and open but because of the fuel pressure even being open half the thickness of a hair will cause it to flood out.
However as the injector you pulled has the wrong number it's likely a combination of things all coming together. The plugs you put up earlier all showed signs of running rich an if the problem was only the single cylinder then only that cylinder would be carbon coated. At this point I would opt for replacing the injectors, If you had a way to flow test them I'd go that way but a flow bench isn't a common item in most places. Plus with the cost of a set of 4 new injectors the testing would cost more than replacing.
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Monday, December 14th, 2020 AT 4:24 PM
Tiny
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I took the fuel rail and the injectors out and number one cylinder injector is the one that's dumping gas. How can that make number 2 cylinder misfire? Anyways, I'm going to try to clean this injector and get it to close because these injectors cost $117.00 a piece.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 9:56 AM
Tiny
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In any case I went ahead and cleaned them and got the injector unstuck and i'm going to soak them in a little transmission fluid and see if I can reuse them temporarily until I can get new ones.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 11:58 AM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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I would suspect that more than one is flowing fuel. I would clean all 4 if you can and then see if they are sealing, look at the O-rings real close as well. I see sets of 4 of the OEM part number for under $150.00 online. Take a look at Rock Auto if interested. As for number one causing a misfire code in number two, that could happen if the firing order was different but I suspect you have more than one injector acting up.
Okay, that sounds like a plan, If you have a way to cycle them like an injector tester to see if they act up in use you might find a couple are binding.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
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Instead of soaking them overnight I went ahead and put them back in the car and the car is running great after I clean them all and made sure they weren't stuck open. When I took it for a test drive no misfire codes came up at all. So I suspect that the injectors are doing their job now, but whenever I hold my foot on the brake and put it in Drive it'll start lunging forward on me and I would just tap the gas and it would quit. Do you know what that could be caused from?
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 1:20 PM
Tiny
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Do you think the IAC valve could be causing that to happened or maybe the throttle position sensor?
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 1:21 PM
Tiny
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I just drove the car again and It did excellent except for whenever I stop or give it gas. And I got a code P0121. I sent you a picture of that code.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
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Great to hear it runs. Okay, it looks like you answered your own question about the TPS. If your scan tool can graph the data you can watch the TPS voltage and slowly press the pedal down. If it's got an issue you should see the voltage drop out, just go very slow as the data has to go through the network and that time lag can hide a momentary drop.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
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I will try that and thank you very much for all your help and advice. I will get back with you when I get results from a new TPS. Sensor
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Wednesday, December 16th, 2020 AT 5:03 AM

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