No start, no power

Of the systems you listed, everything that works does not have the ignition switch involved in the circuit. Everything you listed as not working does have the ignition switch involved. How did you test the ignition switch, and what were the results?

Ohm meter tests are not an effective method in circuits where high current is flowing. All you need is one tiny remaining spot of contact to get close to 0 ohms, but you will not get enough current to flow through that. Now that you have me here, lets do voltage tests instead.

I just started a conversation with another Ford owner with the same problem, so please forgive me if I get mixed up. A test light will be more accurate for these tests because it forces current to flow through the circuit. If you only have a digital voltmeter, we will get by with it, but when you take readings, turn the circuit on, then retake the readings. The circuit will try to draw current, and the voltmeter will show the results of a defect.

Your ignition switch connector can have up to four light green/violet wires. All of them must have twelve volts all the time. If that is missing, check fuse 107 under the hood. Leave the connector plugged into the switch, and back-probe the wires through the back of the connector.

If you do find twelve volts on those feed wires, turn the switch to "run", then back-probe the black/light green, the red/light green, then the green/yellow. All three should have twelve volts.

Yup. 107 is under the hood. Only look there if the twelve volts is missing at the ignition switch.

Before we get too wrapped around the axle, there can also be a bad ground from the battery to the car body. Measure the voltage between the two battery terminals. Turn the head lights on so some current is trying to flow. That will make the results of a defect show up easier. Assuming you find 12 volts, leave the probe on the positive post, and move the negative probe to a paint-free point on the body. The best is to find a mounting bolt for something. You should find exactly the same voltage. If it is lower or 0 volts, the smaller negative battery wire has a break in it. You might have to scratch the bolt head with the probe to work through surface rust on it.

If that ground circuit is okay, the 40-amp fuse is blown, or there's a break in the light green / violet wire. As I recall, those 40-amp fuses are very large, and orange, and they have two test points on top. Just check for 12 volts on both sides of all those orange fuses. If they all have voltage on both sides, the light green / violet wire has a break in it.

All right! One in a row! Happy to hear it's solved.