No start?

Hi,

First, I attached the wiring schematic below, so you have a reference. We could have lost power from two different points. So, first, I need you to check the fusible links I highlighted. Also, remove the starter relay and switch it with a different one having the same part number. If there isn't one, here is a link that explains how to test one:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

If the fusible links are good and the relay tests good, then I need you to go to the transmission range sensor and check the red wire with a white tracer for power when the key is in the start position. You will need a helper for this.

If that is good, then remove the starter relay again. With a test lamp, see if one of the connectors the relay goes connects to has 12v. One will have power at all times. If you find one does have 12v and three don't, have your helper turn the key to the start position and check if an additional pin then has power.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: The wiring schematic was cut in half to make it readable for you. Pics three and four identify the fusible links to check.

Hi,

Power from the starter relay (green wire) only gets power with the key in the start position. But the fusible link 24 should always have power.

Maybe this will help:

If you look at the schematic of the relay, here is what happens.

1) When you turn the key to the start position, power from the ignition switch travels through the ECM to the neutral/park switch.

2) If the neutral/start switch is good, power continues to the starter relay primary side via a black wire with a red tracer. The primary side circuit is completed by a ground (black wire).

3) The primary side is an electromagnet. When it is completed, it pulls the switch closed on the secondary side and then power can run from fusible link 24 to the starter motor (green wire).

4) Once power reaches the starter motor via that green trigger wire, it engages the starter motor.

Does that make sense? LOL Do you have power from fusible link 24?

Let me know. Also, let me know as much as you can as far as the testing you did and how it was done. Anything you can think of that may help may point me in the right direction. At this point, we know there is a power loss at some point. We just need to determine where it is.

I will watch for your reply. Also, hang in there. We'll figure it out.

Take care,

Joe

I want you to try one more thing. Remove the relay. On the relay there will be numbers for each pin. The numbers are 85, 86, 87, and 30.

I need you to focus on pins 87 and 30 and determine which connector they go to in the box. With a test lamp, check each connector on the box. One will have constant power and the other will not have power.

I want you to take a jumper wire and jump connectors 30 and 87. Use a substantial gauge wire to do this. If the starter engages, the green wire you referred to is fine. My next question is if there is a ground path for the primary side of the relay for it to actuate.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi,

Was it only the trigger wire that was replaced? If you switch the relay with a different one, does it do the same thing?

Also, please confirm if I understand. Do you mean when the key is put in the lock cylinder, it starts cranking without even turning the key to the start position?

Let me know.

Joe