No spark, no start?

All of this started when I blew up my first Vortec last winter and bought a new used rebuilt 355 but I was told it was a Vortec, me taking the guy's word before I looked at it just bought it come to find out it ended up being a TBI long block. 87-95 4 bolt main out of a Camaro or Firebird due to the casting numbers and the engine ID number. So, I broke it down to a TBI short block put my other Vortec that spun the rod bearing originally in my truck on top of TBI short block to make it a long block Vortec, 4 month down the road lost oil pressure started getting the first start in morning deaf rattle and lower end knock, dropped oil pan found a ton of metal, mains and rod bearings were scored up pretty bad, crank journals main journals all look good. So, I rolled a set of lower bearings in block and rods. Before I did that, I opened up the valve covers and flushed the whole entire motor out. The bottom of the oil pan was off rolled in the bearings. Well, I had the bankers off I was checking the valve train found number one and number eight well I was exhaust when was intake. I don't remember which one was which but either way two one on each cylinder lobes got shredded sent metal to the motor when do the nearest Boneyard pull out a 96 C1500 5.7 Vortec camshaft stock roller rockers the upper sprocket for the camshaft timing chain rockers and push rods spider and lifter guides put them all in the tbi/vortec block got it all together r as n it for about 25 minutes harmonic was not back all the way i. Found out it got caught up on the second woodruff key when I reinstalled it. In which end of allowing the 4X reluctor ring to come off the key and ended up hitting the crank sensor. So, I went ahead and replaced the crank sensor and pigtail got reluctor ring back to where it belonged harmonic on all the way. Now I have no crank, no start, camshaft correlation I think that by pulling up and resetting distributor then I got a crank performance code replace pigtail no change and no start condition got a new crank sensor. Still no change. Now I have no codes still no spark got continuity on the ground at the crank sensor, power to the reference wire using a test light on the negative side of the battery testing wires going into the ECM probe. The yellow signal wire with key on it will make the coil fire continuously can make the truck run if I broke the yellow wire with a test light on the negative side of the battery take away the test light from the signal wire no spark so the crank no start Still Remains.