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Shorted wires to distributor

Tiny
JOHNNY CARDIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 181,000 MILES
My truck has had a shorted wire going to the distributor for years, pinched between the engine block and transmission, just found that out after it quit running on the highway driving the speed limit. I fixed that problem, but now it will not start. It does get a spark from the coil wire going to the distributor, but a very weak one on number one plug. Just replaced ICM, and Coil, plugs, and wires, still will not starting. Any suggestions?
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Monday, December 26th, 2016 AT 12:43 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
What color is the wire and where does it go?
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2016 AT 6:04 AM
Tiny
JOHNNY CARDIN
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
It is the pink 12 volt wire that feeds all the sensors
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2016 AT 8:13 PM
Tiny
JOHNNY CARDIN
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Actually that particular wire was pinched in under the distributor, and it goes to the distributor (cam sensor)
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Tuesday, December 27th, 2016 AT 8:43 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Ok make sure repair is good then try a different key then scan for codes yo may have burned something out also check all fuses under hood
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Wednesday, December 28th, 2016 AT 6:34 AM
Tiny
JOHNNY CARDIN
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
The truck only came with one key, I have checked all the fuses both inside, and under the hood, they all checked out. You'll never believe it, but all it ever did before was, stutter, or misfire when you would hit a dip, or go down a rough road. My code reader only had 2 codes in the past, one was 1351 high voltage on ckp sensor circuit, found nothing there rubbed or bare, good continuity, could have been the wire that was pinched somehow, the other was crk/cmp correlation code, sadly I had finally got the distributor set correctly right before it quit running. Damn the luck.
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Wednesday, December 28th, 2016 AT 1:20 PM
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Then it may be the still the cam wire or burnt up cam sensor also on that year truck wiggle or try to wiggle rotor, if it moves you need another dist because gear on bottom is shot. Also the cam /crank co relation has to be set by a scanner that only amechanic will have that type to do it.
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Wednesday, December 28th, 2016 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
JOHNNY CARDIN
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
Yes indeed, I'm familiar with the cam retard timing on the distributor, I consider myself very fortunate that I was able to get it right after about 20 adjustments.I would simply clear the code, and re-adjust it till it quit setting the light off. The main reason I did it that way is I don't know anyone around my area that even knows how to do it, or has the proper equipment, so that for now is a pretty much non issue, I need to get the truck to at least try to start so that I know I'm at least going in the right direction. I pulled out the old distributor, and it looks brand spanking new, but since I had a new one I ordered online, I installed the new one, in the exact same place as the one I pulled, along with new cap, and rotor, nothing really changed, it will PUFF really loud through the air intake when you let off the key after trying to crank it up, every once in a while a small backfire through the exhaust. One thing I may have failed to mention, I read on diagnosemycar. Com that the WHITE wire that goes from the PCM to the ICM is a "trigger" wire that when tested should flash off and on as you are cranking over the engine, mine does not do that.
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Wednesday, December 28th, 2016 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,490 POSTS
Hey JOHNNY,

If I may put in my 2 cents, it sounds like you have lost connection, power or ground somewhere, here are some wiring diagrams and a guide to help you check this out.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Please run some tests and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Best, Ken
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Saturday, December 31st, 2016 AT 2:48 PM
Tiny
JOHNNY CARDIN
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
OK, now for the update, I took off the BRAND NEW cap, and BRAND NEW rotor. And installed another BRAND NEW cap, and rotor, PRESTO! Fired right up, and runs like a brand new truck, Damn, I hate buying new parts that are faulty. There it is guys, Happy New Year!
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Saturday, December 31st, 2016 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
JOHNNY CARDIN
  • MEMBER
  • 13 POSTS
A BIG Thank you to all the carpros that helped me through this, even though we didnt quite nail it down at first, it was still reassuring to have someone to bounce ideas off of after a long day of work, thanks guys. Happy New Year
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Saturday, December 31st, 2016 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,490 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help. Happy New Year!

Best, Ken
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Saturday, December 31st, 2016 AT 7:53 PM

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