You're replacing parts in two different systems. It's highly unlikely two problems developed at the same time. The good news is you're ten steps ahead of most people by observing the loss of both things. Most people find the loss of spark and get hung up on that.
You need to look at what the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition system have in common. That is they are all powered up through the automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay, and the Engine Computer turns that on for only one second when you turn on the ignition switch, then again whenever the engine is rotating, (cranking or running).
The first clue to look for is if you can hear the hum of the fuel pump for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. If you do, the ASD relay is working and the computer has control of it. If you can't hear it, there's a quick test we can do with a test light. I'll describe it in more detail if necessary, but it involves checking for 12 volts at the dark green/orange wire at the ignition coil or at any injector.
If you do hear the fuel pump or you find 12 volts in the test at the dark green / orange wire, what is important is if that 12 volts comes back when you crank the engine. If it does not, the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor are the best suspects. Start by reading and recording the diagnostic fault codes. Chrysler made doing that yourself real easy. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without cranking the engine, leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. You can go here to see the definitions:
https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2/p1100
or I can interpret them for you. The clinker is fault codes for these sensors take some time to set, as in when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. These codes often do not set just from cranking the engine. That means those sensors and their associated wiring can not be assumed to be okay just because there is no related fault code. When that happens, you'll need a scanner to view live data. That will list both sensors with a "No" or "Present" during cranking to show if those signals are showing up at the computer. If one of them stays on "No", that is the sensor and wiring that are suspect.
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Thursday, March 7th, 2019 AT 4:13 PM
