Fuel pump relay?

What's the history that led up to this? Did the engine stall while you were driving, or did it just suddenly fail to start? Have you checked for spark? You should still hear the hum of the fuel pump for one second when you turn on the ignition switch.

The 1500 uses a separate automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay and fuel pump relay, but they're both turned on by the Engine Computer at the same time. There's nothing special about either one so you can switch them as a quick test.

If you or a helper can hear the fuel pump run for one second when you turn on the ignition switch, that entire circuit and the fuel pump relay are okay. If you do have spark during cranking, the ASD relay is turning on. That proves the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor are okay, and we have to look at the fuel supply system. If you don't have spark, the fastest test is to connect a grounded test light to the positive wire on the ignition coil. That will be the dark green / orange wire. You can also back-probe any of the injectors for this test. Same wire color at every one of them.

You should see the test light turn on for one second when you turn on the ignition switch. What's important is if it turns back on when you crank the engine. If it does not, the cam and crank sensors are the first suspects.

A failed sensor will not always set a diagnostic fault code right away or just when cranking the engine. They often set only when a stalled engine is coasting to a stop. Regardless, have you read the fault codes yet? Do you know how to do that yourself? Chrysler made it very easy by cycling the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds, without cranking the engine, leave it in "run", then watch the code numbers appear in the odometer display. You can go here to see the code definitions:

https://www.2carpros.com/trouble_codes/obd2

or I can interpret them for you. If the battery was disconnected, the fault codes will have been erased.

Check to see if it's a bad relay sticking.

Try removing transmission relay as it could power up fuel pump. If not it may be a pcm problem or oil pressure switch has a hot wire touching the one for fuel pump. Either that or body/battery ground is bad or a pcm problem.

I have been driving it for 3 days now with no problems. Could it just be a relay, and how would I check. I also never heard the fuel pump whine or make that noise.

Idle and stalling problem:

Clean out the idle air control valve/motor and the EGR and PCV valves and check the fuel pressure and also test the ASD and fuel pump relay then comeback with some results

Clean the throttle plate on both sides and iac hole with choke cleaner and replace the iac motor.

I doubt the leak would have anything to do with thetone wheel, but pull out crank sensor and see if there is a buildup of gunk that may pe part of theproblem. You would check at the oil pressure switch, for the wires rubbed together. Other than that I have no further suggestions because of odd ball things like what you have a pro h as to physically look at

Is there power to the fuel pump relay?

If everything is good, there has to be a break in the wiring between the relay and the pump.

Welcome to the forum, use a testlite, check voltage circuits at the fuel pump relay. Voltage for load side of relay is hot all the time. Voltage for coil side of relay goes hot when you turn on the key. Pcm grounds coil side of relay to energize, initial prime or engine running.

Brown wire with white tracer is the ground controlled by the pcm, terminal 85, according to my info.