No power to injectors in throttle body

Use hose pinch-off pliers to pinch the rubber hose after the gauge test port if you can, then measure the pressure when you cycle the ignition switch on. It should go much higher than 15 pounds. It's the regulator that keeps the pressure from going too high, and to do that, fuel flows through it, then back to the tank. If you aren't seeing any fuel run out when the return hose is disconnected, either the pump's pressure isn't high enough, or you have the hoses switched on the throttle body.

That's not the crank sensor. That is a holder for a dealer-only timing tool. I worked for a very nice family-owned Chrysler dealership through all of the '90s, and never saw that tool or needed to use it. The one you're referring to at the vibration damper is a GM thing on some of their engines.

For the intermittent injectors, look at the two terminals in the connectors that look like the tops of little black eggs. Use a pick to squeeze those tighter so they make better contact.

If it's running on one injector the issue isn't the MAP. The PCM uses the same sensors and controls for both injectors. The difference is that it uses the O2 sensors to tell it if one side or the other is running lean/rich and alters the pulse width accordingly.

Sounds more like you have a power issue to the second injector. Either a bad wire/connector or even a blown drive transistor in the PCM. Go rent a set of NOID lights and plug one into the injector harness that isn't firing. No light = no control signal or no power.

You aren't going to solve a running problem by replacing the throttle position sensor. That one has the least effect on fuel metering calculations. What CAN happen, since no two sensors are ever alike, is the new one can read a higher voltage at closed-throttle than the old one did. If that happens, the Engine Computer may not see the "minimum throttle" voltage it is waiting to see to know when it must be in control of idle speed. It may assume your foot is on the accelerator pedal, and leave idle speed up to you. That can result in a no-start unless you hold the accelerator pedal down 1/4".

You need to look at all three voltages on the TPS. It sounds like you found the 5.0 volt feed wire. The ground wire should have 0.2 volts. The signal wire will have between roughly 0.5 and 4.5 volts, lower at closed-throttle. If you find the normal range of signal voltage, that can only be there if the ground and feed wires are correct.

Also consider there can be a break in the signal wire. That will result in you finding the correct signal voltage at the sensor, but the computer will see 5.0 volts, which is not an acceptable voltage. The best way to look at any sensor voltage is with a scanner so you can see what the computer is seeing.

There are multiple versions of throttle position sensors. The difference is in the orientation of the plug.

When only one injector is firing, swap the connectors to verify the other injector works.