No fuel. I have checked the 15 amp fuse under the hood

You must never have 12 volts to the fuel pump unless the engine is rotating, (cranking or running). That is a safety feature to stop the fuel pump in the event a fuel line is ruptured in a crash. You will have 12 volts to the pump when you turn on the ignition switch, but only for one or two seconds. Any testing must be done while cranking the engine or with the fuel pump relay bypassed. If you bypass the relay, you should be able to hear the pump run. If you have 12 volts to the pump but it is not running, bang on the bottom of the gas tank. The shock will often get a pump motor started. That failure is due to worn brushes. The pump may work again for days or weeks, but it is going to have to be replaced eventually.

As I mentioned, if you are crawling underneath while the ignition switch is on, you had better not have 12 volts to the pump. People who run toggle switches are asking for a lawsuit. If the other guy runs a red light, causes a crash that ruptures the fuel line, the engine will stall due to lack of fuel pressure. With a stalled engine, there will be no signal pulses from the crankshaft position sensor and / or camshaft position sensor. Lack of those signals is what tells the engine computer to turn the fuel pump off. If the pump is wired to a toggle switch, it won't turn off and raw fuel will be pumped onto the ground creating a serious fire hazard. The other guy may have cause the crash, but a lawyer or insurance investigator will convince a jury the person who did that modification is responsible for his burns and other injuries.

When you test for 12 volts at the pump, use a test light, then watch for it to light up for only one or two seconds after you turn on the ignition switch. If you see that, the relay and wiring are okay, and the Engine Computer has control of the relay. At that point you need to be looking at why the computer is not turning the relay on again during cranking. That involves the cam and crank sensors. If you DO have 12 volts during cranking, the pump motor is bad or it has a bad ground.

The injectors are timed from the cam and crank sensors too, so even if the pump relay is bypassed to make it run, you will have fuel pressure, but no injector pulses.

Yep. The fastest way to verify everything else is okay is to bypass the relay, then listen if the pump is running. If it is, move on and forget that entire circuit. There are two ways to do that. When I work on a Chrysler product, (which use a lot of Mitsubishi parts), I unplug the relay, then pop in a jumper wire, typically a stretched-out paper clip. When I am working on a car I am not familiar with, and since time means money to my customers, the fastest way is to unplug the relay, pop its cover off, plug it back in that way, then squeeze the movable contact. You can keep it engaged with a small rubber band.

The relay connects two separate but related circuits. By bypassing / squeezing it, you can test the entire high-current circuit. If that is working, that leaves the low-current control side with the problem and that is controlled by the computer. Computers rarely fail to run relays properly so when it does not turn one on, it is because whatever tells it it is time to do that is not there. That is the cam and crank signals in this case.

You can check for diagnostic fault codes to lead you to the circuit with the problem, but first look for a mechanic who has a Chrysler DRB3 scanner. A lot of independent shops bought them because with an extra plug-in card, they will do emissions-related tests on all brands of vehicles, 1996 and newer. I have one because I have a lot of 1980's and 1990's Chrysler products. Under "Inputs and Outputs" it will list the two sensors with a "no" or "present" during cranking to tell you if those signals are arriving from those sensors. You should get a fault code too related to the missing signal, but if the battery was disconnected, the codes will have been erased. Often it is really hard to get them to set again from simply cranking the engine. They are more likely to set during coasting to a stop right after the sensor has failed.

I included some drawings of common relays from Chrysler products. If your car has one of these, you can use the paper clip, otherwise you are safest by squeezing the contact.

Not the ECU / Engine Computer. It is always possible, but they rarely fail.

At the moment I do not have access to a service manual, so you will have to look for me. Look for an automatic shutdown, (ASD) relay in the under-hood fuse box. If you have one, that supplies the current for the ignition coil, injectors, and fuel pump or pump relay. You can find the same 12 volt feed wire at the ignition coil or at any injector rather than having to run back to the fuel pump. If you can make the fuel pump run by bypassing a relay, we're done with that circuit. Now we have to determine if the Engine Computer is turning on the ASD relay. Look for the wire at the ignition coil or any injector that is the same color. Back-probe that wire to see if you get 12 volts for one second after turning on the ignition switch. If you do, you have the right wire. What is important is if that 12 volts comes back during cranking. If it does not, one of the sensor signals is missing.

Hey,

I have this complete wiring diagram for the fuel pump for you. Please check the trigger wires and power sources.

Let us know what you find

Best, Ken

They gave it a double whammy. The first relay turns on when the ignition switch is on. The second one turns on when the ignition switch is on AND the Engine Computer turns that relay on. If either relay fails to turn off, the other one will handle that.

What I would do is remove relay number 2, then connect terminal #4 to terminal #1. The fuel pump should run by just turning on the ignition switch. If it does, there's one other test, but the definitive test is to stick a tiny piece of wire into terminal #4, reinstall the relay, turn on the ignition switch, then the pump should run when you ground that wire. If it does, the Engine Computer isn't turning it on during cranking. If the pump DOESN'T run, the circuit can be left like that for troubleshooting.