No crank no start

Tiny
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Okay.
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Tuesday, April 10th, 2018 AT 6:00 PM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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We tested fuses #3 11.93, #47. 11.92, #27 reads 0.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 7:11 AM
Tiny
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Did you remember to have to key on run when testing fuse #27?
Plus you forgot to mention that "In Key" fuse in the center console fuse box.
Lastly does that crank relay 57 click once when the key it turned to start?
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 7:54 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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Yes it was. The battery keeps draining so fast. Which one is the in key fuse?
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 8:08 AM
Tiny
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It appears you have a faulty ignition switch.
The "In Key" fuse is #42 in the floor console fuse box shown here.
Double check at the ignition switch the orange wire coming in for voltage from that fuse IGN 3 # 19 and with the key on run, the pink wire coming out that goes to that IGN Main 1 #27 fuse.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 8:55 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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Thank you so much! Yeah, the battery keeps draining on us, does not even last an hour. But we are charging it to test the wires.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 9:24 AM
Tiny
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Are you listening to the radio or something while doing all this testing?
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 9:25 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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No nothing is on except the running lights.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 9:30 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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We have the ignition switch off but it seems to be okay. Could it be inside the switch?
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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The orange wire tested at 0.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 10:14 AM
Tiny
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The orange wire coming in for voltage from that fuse IGN 3 # 19 and with the key on run.
Are you sure you had the key on run?
If yes, and you are sure both sides of that IGN 3 #19 fuse has 12 volts on both sides then you have an open or short in that orange wire and maybe not a faulty ignition switch. Trace that orange wire and find the open, short or cut both ends and run a new wire, tape up the ends of the old wire, Then see if all is okay, now, then move onto finding out why the battery drains so fast.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 10:20 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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We bolted fuse box under the hood and the hotwire broke off. Nothing we can't fix. Just have to get an eye. Do you think that was the problem?
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
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What hot wire?
Was it that orange wire?
Plus, why do you have the running lights on when doing these tests?
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 11:39 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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The one coming from the battery leading to the fuse box. I hadn't realized they shouldn't be on.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 11:49 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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There are 16 orange wires leading into the harness. We were tracking the one from #19
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
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You may have to gain access to that #19 fuse socket by either taking the fuse box apart or taking it off, whatever it takes to find out which orange wire it is. You may want to disconnect the battery just for now while you gain that access just so you don't short out something else, then hook it back up when you have identified that orange wire and are ready to begin testing it for where it looses that voltage at, whether it be a short circuit, short to ground or open (break) in the orange wire.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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It started for about 2 or 3 seconds and shut off. There is the word security that now shows up.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 6:20 PM
Tiny
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It appears now the security system has a problem reading the key password. Maybe the fact the battery kept going dead, it lost the memory. For now, try a spare key if you have one or if you don't try cleaning that key where the pellet is and try again. Last try to relearn the password, but you should keep the battery charger on the battery while doing so, cause you have to leave the key on for 30 minutes. So make sure you also turn everything off, including those running lights. Put the key in the ignition, turn the key to run, wait 10 minutes and see if the security light goes out. If and when it does, turn off the key, turn the key back to run and leave it there for 10 minutes, turn it off again. Turn it back to run for another 10 minutes, for 30 minutes total, then turn it off, now this time turn the key to start, the security system should learn the password this time and crank the starter and engine over and see if it starts and runs. If not, you will have to have the trouble codes retrieved to find out what on that security system is at fault. Plus is when turning the key to run, for that first time if the security light never goes out after 10 minutes, you will probably have to retrieve the trouble codes anyhow.
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Wednesday, April 11th, 2018 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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Ok we have done that and still no start. The security light is still too. Where would we get the trouble codes? Is there anyway to bypass e security system altogether?
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Thursday, April 12th, 2018 AT 3:36 AM
Tiny
GRACIE JACKSON
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Security light is still on, and I tried it just for the heck of it and it started with the key. I took it for a ride then back home, shut it off and tried to start it again but no crank or start. The odometer read for a few seconds then went to error and the other gauges did the same thing. I did notice my speedometer needle would start to raise when I stepped on the gas but thats it. My vehicle shut off for a second while I was driving and then came right back on, I did clear a lot of clicking coming from the dash on the passengers side.
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Thursday, April 12th, 2018 AT 4:12 AM

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