No crank no start

Check the available voltage at the battery first, it should be twelve volts and not drop below 9.6 volts with the key on start trying to crank the starter over.

Thank you, the battery was bad so we bought a new one and changed that. It still does not start but now the radio reads "locked". Do you think we need to change the BCM back to the old one?

No, for the radio just unlock it with the code.
As far as the no crank, since the battery is new and it appears the starter relay is clicking, it may be the fuse for the other 1/2 of that relay.
Check the "STRTR SOL 2" # 34 fuse in the underhood fuse block.

okay, the #34 fuse, is that the 40 amp green fuse that is about three quarters of an inch long?

It is a 40a, #34 in the corner shown here.

Okay, I just picked up the fuse and the guy said the other one did not look bad at all. I am going to put it in when I get back in about half an hour.

Okay, if it is not blown and replacing it does not work. try a new relay, so you might as well pickup a new starter relay while you are still at the store. Maybe even a twelve volt test light or multi-meter with a voltmeter on it so you can test that #34 fuse to see if it actually has voltage.

We changed the fuse and no change except for the click noise is coming from under the dash. There is a fuse box there too.

That is why it is always best to use a voltmeter or at least a 12 volt test light and test the fuses, relays etc cause in most cases one fuse relay is fed from another fuse and/or relay.
So, with that done said, let's just test them fuses for voltage, with the key on or off according to the starter circuit wiring diagram. That clicking under the dash may or may not be related to this problem, I just assumed it was the starter relay clicking before.
Let me know the results of testing these fuses, and also put your finger tips on that starter relay under the hood and feel if it clicks once or not, when someone else first turns the key to start.
relay 57 shown here under the hood.

okay, we used the velomotor and when we lifted relay 57 so we could see the prong, we touched it and touched the ground and the car started but stalled right after.

I assume you were jumping the relay.
Make sure you remember to have the key on run when jumping that relay because if not the fuel pump and fuel injectors will not be hot.

yes it was on, does that mean relay 57 is no good? or is the wiring leading to that relay?

It depends, I do not know exactly how you jumped inside that relay.
I assume you jumped from the spot that was hot all the time from the strtr sol 2 fuse #34 to the spot that goes down to the starter.
If so, that does not check out any of them other fuses, so use the voltmeter and check them other fuses, IGN3 #19, BATT 1 #47 under hood, In KEY fuse in the center console fuse box, all hot all the times on both sides of each fuse, then the IGN Main #27 with the key on run/start both sides of the fuse, then feel if that #57 relay clicks or not when the key is turned to start.

okay we did all except the last part the 27 and 57 because the battery drained. But the other ones were good.

Okay, charge the battery and finish the tests and let me know the results.

Okay me playing with the box those fuses are reading 2.99 and #47 is 3.00 but we do is draining the battery.

Charge the battery back up until the battery reads twelve volts and repeat those tests.

Fuse 19 is 1262, fuse 34 is 1264 and 57 is 1224. It starts when we jump off a hot lead but the fuel pump does not engage.

What are you jumping to?
Also, when you jump, is the starter just cranking the engine over or does the engine actually start?
If the fuel pump is not running, I do not see how the engine can start, I can see the starter cranking the engine over and a no start.
Plus you forgot fuses #27, #3, #47 and that In Key fuse in the center console fuse block.
What is 57, cause that was supposed to be a relay, not a fuse.

I am jumping off the relay #57. the prong I will check the center one in the morning. thanks for reminding me.

Okay.

We tested fuses #3 11.93, #47. 11.92, #27 reads 0.

Did you remember to have to key on run when testing fuse #27?
Plus you forgot to mention that "In Key" fuse in the center console fuse box.
Lastly does that crank relay 57 click once when the key it turned to start?

Yes it was . The battery keeps draining so fast. Which one is the in key fuse?

It appears you have a faulty ignition switch.
The "In Key" fuse is #42 in the floor console fuse box shown here.
Double check at the ignition switch the orange wire coming in for voltage from that fuse IGN 3 # 19 and with the key on run, the pink wire coming out that goes to that IGN Main 1 #27 fuse.

Thank you so much! Yeah, the battery keeps draining on us, does not even last an hour. But we are charging it to test the wires.

Are you listening to the radio or something while doing all this testing?

No nothing is on except the running lights.

We have the ignition switch off but it seems to be okay. Could it be inside the switch?

The orange wire tested at 0.

the orange wire coming in for voltage from that fuse IGN 3 # 19 and with the key on run.
Are you sure you had the key on run?
If yes, and you are sure both sides of that IGN 3 #19 fuse has 12 volts on both sides then you have an open or short in that orange wire and maybe not a faulty ignition switch. Trace that orange wire and find the open, short or cut both ends and run a new wire, tape up the ends of the old wire, Then see if all is okay, now, then move onto finding out why the battery drains so fast.

We bolted fuse box under the hood and the hotwire broke off. Nothing we can't fix. Just have to get an eye. Do you think that was the problem?

What hot wire?
was it that orange wire?
Plus, why do you have the running lights on when doing these tests?

The one coming from the battery leading to the fuse box. I hadn't realized they shouldn't be on.

There are 16 orange wires leading into the harness. We were tracking the one from #19

You may have to gain access to that #19 fuse socket by either taking the fuse box apart or taking it off, whatever it takes to find out which orange wire it is. You may want to disconnect the battery just for now while you gain that access just so you don't short out something else, then hook it back up when you have identified that orange wire and are ready to begin testing it for where it looses that voltage at, whether it be a short circuit, short to ground or open (break) in the orange wire.

It started for about 2 or 3 seconds and shut off. There is the word security that now shows up.

It appears now the security system has a problem reading the key password. Maybe the fact the battery kept going dead, it lost the memory. For now, try a spare key if you have one or if you don't try cleaning that key where the pellet is and try again. Last try to relearn the password, but you should keep the battery charger on the battery while doing so, cause you have to leave the key on for 30 minutes. So make sure you also turn everything off, including those running lights. Put the key in the ignition, turn the key to run, wait 10 minutes and see if the security light goes out. If and when it does, turn off the key, turn the key back to run and leave it there for 10 minutes, turn it off again. turn it back to run for another 10 minutes, for 30 minutes total, then turn it off, now this time turn the key to start, the security system should learn the password this time and crank the starter and engine over and see if it starts and runs. If not, you will have to have the trouble codes retrieved to find out what on that security system is at fault. Plus is when turning the key to run, for that first time if the security light never goes out after 10 minutes, you will probably have to retrieve the trouble codes anyhow.

Ok we have done that and still no start. The security light is still too. Where would we get the trouble codes? Is there anyway to bypass e security system altogether?

security light is still on, and I tried it just for the heck of it and it started with the key. I took it for a ride then back home, shut it off and tried to start it again but no crank or start. The odometer read for a few seconds then went to error and the other gauges did the same thing. I did notice my speedometer needle would start to raise when I stepped on the gas but thats it. My vehicle shut off for a second while I was driving and then came right back on, I did clear a lot of clicking coming from the dash on the passengers side,