The easiest way is to just see if the van will roll in park. If the transmission was in low when it was installed it should have installed properly.
The ignition switch could cause a no crank but not if it cranked with the jumper as the relay would not have power without the switch.
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Saturday, July 21st, 2018 AT 6:12 PM
RBRO533
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With the new range sensor in, the gear selection lights up the correct position now but still will not crank. You had said before about the direction the signals go to tell what to do when. Since I still do not have signal to relay pin 85 is it the TCM that tells the PCM that it should ground or vice versa. If I understood it correctly I think it goes from TCM to PCM, if that's correct how would it be tested to see if it can be narrowed down to one or the other or a wire in between. So, if it is supposed to go to the TCM from wherever what wire should I check to make sure it is getting continuity through that wire? Then if I have continuity through the wire at that point where do I check to see if the TCM itself is receiving that signal? Then if the TCM is receiving that signal which wire would I check to see if there's continuity to the PCM? If I have that backwards and the PCM does not get its signal to ground from the TCM then what direction should I go then?
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 11:19 AM
STEVE W.
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13,576 POSTS
The signal is sent over the data bus not a single wire it is not something that you can test that way. It sounds like the range sensor is working. The problem now is that to test farther you need a scan tool that can read the data and see if the signal to crank is being blocked.
My guess is that the TCM is getting the signals now as the shift indicator is correct and it gets that data from the range sensor through the TCM. You might try disconnecting the battery wait twenty minutes and reconnect. There are times that the PCM can get "confused" and that will reset it. Otherwise you will need to get a scan tool to test farther.
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Thursday, July 26th, 2018 AT 11:51 AM
RBRO533
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I have not been able to get a hold of my neighbors scan tool but when I tried to check for codes with my cheap-o it said there was no link. It powered it up but would not link.
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Tuesday, August 7th, 2018 AT 6:58 PM
STEVE W.
MECHANIC
13,576 POSTS
That is not a good sign as it could mean the data BUS is not working or is blocked. For that you may need a factory level tool that can show each module on the data buss to see if one is blocking the system.
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Wednesday, August 8th, 2018 AT 9:45 AM
RBRO533
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Update: Would have posted sooner but the throw out bearing/slave cylinder on my 1993 Jeep Wrangler went out and with my luck it is the one that is inside the bell housing instead of outside and I had to deal with that first. But on the van it was the PCM.
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Wednesday, August 29th, 2018 AT 5:28 AM
STEVE W.
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After the earlier report of it not talking I was afraid of that. The switch likely shorted power or ground to the wrong circuit and took out the PCM. Yeah, the old slave cylinders on the outside are getting scarce. The only upside to the TOB slave cylinder combo is that you get to verify the clutch condition. Other than that they are a pain if they fail. I miss the old cable actuated clutches, heaters, throttles and transmissions.
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Wednesday, August 29th, 2018 AT 11:07 AM
RBRO533
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Hey Steve, are you thinking there is a possibility of a short etc somewhere that caused the PCM to short out? On the Jeep I went ahead and did the clutch kit rather than just the slave cylinder. Like people say: while you are in there might as well do the kit and inspect the the rest. Only problem is it seems like there is maybe a design flaw or something on the slave cylinder, no matter which brand, because they only seem to last about five to seven years. I had replaced it in 2012 and on average drove it approximately five to seven hundred miles a year. I am thinking about maybe doing the conversion to an outside cylinder but from what I understand you have to kind of scrounge up the parts.
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Friday, August 31st, 2018 AT 4:58 AM
STEVE W.
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I think you had a switch that failed and it shorted the PCM, when you replaced it the short was gone, but the damage had already been done.
That seems a bit excessive, What did the fluid look like when it came out? Clean and clear or dark and gritty? Look over the old one close, any odd wear spots like it was hitting the snout on the transmission or pressing on the fingers on the plate crooked?