Engine not starting why ?

Hello,

This could be a problem with your vehicle's Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP). It keeps track of the crankshaft and your vehicle's Power-train Control Module (PCM) uses this information for crankshaft speed, location in four stroke cycle, and misfire monitor. Your vehicle's engine needs this information to start. I have included a few links down below for you to go to:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-crank-shaft-angle-sensor-works
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

I have also included the location of your vehicle's CKP in the diagrams down below. Please go through these guides and get back to us with what you find out please.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Okay, thank you. I will look into this in the morning and let you know what I figure out.

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

My car is cranking, turning over, but not starting. it sometimes while cranking will sound like its about to turn on for a second but never fully does. It has been idling a little rough lately and has shut off a couple of times if I'm idle for too long and the engine hasn't warmed up. I tried getting a jump but it didn't affect the car starting at all. Same noise. Interior lights work and battery seems to be good. I have ETC light on. I have a video but it's not uploading.

Welcome to 2CarPros.

When an engine cranks but doesn't start, it could be a few things. Things such as low or high fuel pressure, no ignition speak to the plugs, timing, low compression can all cause this condition. First, take a look through this link. It discusses the most common reasons for a crank no start.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

What I suggest is starting with fuel pump pressure. Here is a link that shows in general how to check it as well as the fuel pressure regulator:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the specifics for your vehicle:

GPEC
*CHECKING THE FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM

For a complete wiring diagram refer to Diagrams/Electrical.

Diagnostic Test

1. CHECKING THE FUEL PUMP OPERATION

Turn the ignition on.

NOTE: Diagnose and repair any fuel pump control circuit or relay DTCs before continuing with this test.

With a scan tool, actuate the fuel pump control to ON (100%).

NOTE: It may be necessary to use a mechanics stethoscope in the next step.

Listen for fuel pump operation at the fuel tank. The fuel pump should operate smoothly, without excessive noise. If necessary, compare to a known good vehicle of similar year, make, and model.

NOTE: If the pump has excessive noise or grinding, the pump should be replaced.

caution: Stop all actuation tests before continuing.

Is the fuel pump operating when actuated?

Yes

- Go to 2

No

- Go to 7

2. CHECKING THE FUEL PRESSURE

Turn the ignition off.

WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure even with the engine off. Before testing or servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, the fuel system pressure must be released. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.

Install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.

Turn the ignition on.

With the scan tool, actuate the fuel pump relay control. Observe the fuel pressure gauge.

NOTE: The fuel pressure specification is 407 KPa ± 34 KPa (59 psi ± 5 psi).

caution: Stop all actuation tests before continuing.

Select the conclusion that best matches the result of the test:

Fuel pressure is within the stated specification

- Test complete.

Fuel pressure is below the stated specification

- Go to 3

Fuel pressure is above the stated specification

- Replace the fuel filter/pressure regulator.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test

3. RESTRICTED FUEL SUPPLY LINE

Turn the ignition off.

WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure, even with the engine off. Before testing or servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, the fuel system pressure must be released. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.

Raise vehicle on hoist, and disconnect the fuel pressure line at the fuel pump module.

Install special 5/16 fuel line adapter tool #6539 between disconnected fuel line and the fuel pump module.

Attach a fuel pressure test gauge to the T fitting on tool #6539.

Turn the ignition on.

With the scan tool, actuate the fuel pump relay control. Observe the fuel pressure gauge.

NOTE: Fuel pressure specification is 407 KPa ± 34 KPa (59 psi ± 5 psi).

caution: Stop all actuation tests before proceeding.

Is the fuel pressure within specification?

Yes

- Repair or replace fuel supply line as necessary.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test

No

- Go to 4

4. SADDLE FUEL TANK

Is the vehicle equipped with a saddle type fuel tank?

Yes

- Go to 5

No

- Go to 6

5. FUEL TANK SIPHON HOSE OR FUEL LINE RESTRICTED OR DAMAGED

Turn the ignition off.

WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure, even with the engine off. Before testing or servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, the fuel system pressure must be released. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.

Gain access to the fuel pump module and the fuel tank module.

Inspect the fuel line and siphon hose between the fuel pump module and the fuel tank module. Look for disconnected or damaged lines and hoses.

Inspect the fuel pressure regulator for damage or a condition that might cause a fuel flow problem. Make sure that it is seated in the module properly.

Were any problems found?

Yes

- Repair as necessary.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test

No

- Go to 6

6. FUEL PUMP INLET STRAINER

Turn the ignition off.

WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure even with the engine off. Before testing or servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, the fuel system pressure must be released. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.

Remove the fuel pump module and inspect the fuel inlet strainer for damage or a condition that might cause a fuel flow problem.

Were any problems found?

Yes

- Replace the Fuel Pump Inlet Strainer.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test

No

- Replace the Fuel Pump Module.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test

7. FUEL PUMP GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE

Turn the ignition off.

Disconnect the Fuel Pump Module harness connector.

Using a 12 volt test light connected to 12 volts, check the Fuel Pump Motor Ground circuit at the Fuel Pump Module harness connector.

NOTE: The test light should be illuminated and bright. Compare the brightness to that of a direct connection to the battery.

Is the test light illuminated and bright?

Yes

- Replace the Fuel Pump Module.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test

No

- Repair the Fuel Pump Ground circuit for an open circuit or high resistance.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test

__________________________________________

Picture 1 are the fuel pressure specs.

_________________________________________

If fuel pressure check good, then check to confirm you are getting spark to the plugs. Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Here are some general links to help with testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

If fuel pressure is good and spark is good, then we need to suspect timing or compression. Low compression can be caused by wear, internal damage, or even timing. Take a look through these links:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/the-reasons-for-low-compression

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-low-compression

Here is a link showing in general how it is tested:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. Specifications are included in the directions.

CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.


Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
2. Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Select a route free from traffic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and accelerate through the gears several times briskly.
3. Remove engine cover.
4. Disconnect coil electrical connectors and remove coils.
5. Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnormal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cylinder number of spark plug for future reference.
6. Disconnect injector electrical connectors.
7. Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the compression check.
8. Insert compression gauge adaptor 8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in cylinder head. Connect the 0-500 psi (Blue) pressure transducer CH7059 with cable adaptors to the DRBIII(R). For Special Tool identification, (Refer to ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
9. Crank engine until maximum pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder pressure.
10. Repeat the previous step for all remaining cylinders.
11. Compression should not be less than 1034 kPa (150 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
12. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
13. If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question. The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.

I hope something here helps. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

Checked fuel pressure and it's good. Still won't crank. Desperately need help.

If you use starting fluid, will it start for a couple seconds? When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

It's fuel injexted. I'm dumb where do I spray it

In the throttle body

I have replaced the starter, battery and serpentine belt and the car ran great for a couple of weeks. I tried to start the car and it did not start. Could this be a TCM or PCM issue?

It sounds like you have a main relay or crankshaft angle sensor that is out but to be sure lets run down this guide. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

here is the crankshaft position sensor just in case. Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

I neglected to get back to say the car has started since then. The problem is that it has a mind of its own as to when it will start for me. It is sitting in a friends driveway until I ultimately take it to the shop. Do you believe the security reset could still be a possibility?

Yes it never hurts to try. Also check the battery for condition including load test most auto parts can do that for free. If you decided to test the battery yourself here is a link to a great article with pictures and a video on just how to do it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

Checked codes found the crankshaft sensor was not working I got a new one and it fired up! thanks for your help this is a great site I cant believe it is free :)

Hello. I have a 2007 Dodge Caliber SXT. About two months ago I went to Jiffy Lube for an oil change service and to have new front brakes installed on my vehicle. Two weeks later, I also replaced all four tires. The day that I replaced the tires, my check engine light came on. Later that day, I ran a few errands and, after my final errand, as I attempted to start the car to head home, the engine would not start. It was turning over, but the car itself would not start. A friend gave me a jump and the next day I headed to AutoZone for a diagnostic check.

The check came up with the following codes: U1110, U1120, U1412. They also checked my battery and said that it was fine and did not need to be replaced. I drove the car for a few weeks after that and had no problems.

A couple of days ago, I tried to start the car and again, the engine would not start. Would you be able to give me an idea of what the problem may be, before I go to a lot of expense and head to a mechanic? I have never had any sort of engine trouble with the car before and the timing of all of this is making me wonder if the recent work that I’ve had done on the car was faulty and may be the root of the problem?

this is a toughy because your can bus has lost communication for a speed sensor. all of t hese codes relate to what is in the pic. which i'd kind of believe it may be a shorted wire. This can be caused by nearly anything even a poor connection. A mechanic will definitely h ave to look at this and can't really give you a price because they vary all over and this may be a easy job or hard which involves time. I doubt it is from changing oil but tell the mechanic about the brakes job as well as something may have been damaged there. also nothing more than changing oil and filter should ever be done at one of these places. nothing more most are not qualified to do this type of work.

Thank you very much for your help.

Engine Mechanical problem
2007 Dodge Caliber 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

we put a obd2 scanner on it. it gave us 2 codes one was the fuel level sensor and the engine oil pressure sensor but we dont even know where to find these on the car could you please help we cant find a repair manual for this car so we have no schematics for the engine

Hi:
I believe the oil pressure sensor can shut down the engine if it indicates no pressure. Also, I believe it's near the oil filter.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I was driving and hit a bump and lost all power no fuel no starter not even any ignitionthere is power to ignition but it will not turn car over at all i tried jumping starter it turns but wont fire i pulled the fuel line and no fuel at all please help....

Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn key to run? If not check the fuel pump connector if its loose.

there is no pump comming on but i was told something about a WIN sensor(wireless ignition node) the ignition has power but the ignition wont even turn the starter hope i am saying it right its something in the dash i was told for the ignition thanks....

Test the autoshutdown ( ASD relay )

Hey, I have the car listed above. I recently did a valve cover replacement because of leaking oil causing a misfire a cylinder. What should my next step be in correcting the timing issue? My car have 209,000 miles on it. I have replaced the valve cover gasket. It ran for for about 20 minutes and shut off. Now the timing is off. I put a scan tool on the car p2088, p2090, p2017 and p2004. I purchased both camshaft sensors, intake manifold runner control and a IAT sensor. Haven’t installed yet. I’m just unsure of the timing issue.

Hi,

The timing is controlled by the power-train control module and several sensors. Why do you feel the timing was off? Was there work on the timing chain? Also, can you explain what is happening? Does it try to start? Is it possible for you to record the engine cranking so I can hear it. Often times I can tell if there is a timing issue.

Let me know.
Joe

I had a mechanics come out and take a look at the car for me. He ran a few tests and he is the one who told me that timing was off. I originally had a misfire in the 3rd cylinder where it was oil in the spark plug chute. So I replaced the valve cover gasket. After completing the job The car ran for about 20 minutes then shit off. When I turn the key it won’t turn over. There is noise where it sounds like it wants to crank but it won’t. Immediately after removing the key after trying to crank it there is a rattle noise coming from the left side of the engine. That lasts for maybe 5 seconds. I just brought the car a few months ago so I don’t if there was work done on the chain before.

If the starter is engaging and turning the engine, I would recommend checking compression. If the timing is off, the compression will be low. Here is a link that shows how that is done. If we can determine it is off, I can help you through the process of replacing the timing chain. Here is a link that shows in general how it is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle:

2007 Dodge Caliber L4-2.0L VIN B
Cylinder Compression Pressure Test
Vehicle Powertrain Management Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks Compression Check Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Cylinder Compression Pressure Test
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST

The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.


Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.

1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
2. Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Select a route free from traffic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and accelerate through the gears several times briskly.
3. Remove engine cover.
4. Disconnect coil electrical connectors and remove coils.
5. Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnormal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cylinder number of spark plug for future reference.
6. Disconnect injector electrical connectors.
7. Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the compression check.
8. Insert compression gauge adaptor 8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in cylinder head. Connect the 0-500 psi (Blue) pressure transducer CH7059 with cable adaptors to the DRBIII(R). For Special Tool identification, (Refer to ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
9. Crank engine until maximum pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder pressure.
10. Repeat the previous step for all remaining cylinders.
11. Compression should not be less than 1034 kPa (150 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
12. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
13. If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question. The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.

As far as adjusting timing, you really can't do it. With older model vehicles, it could be done by turning the ignition distributor, but that is no longer an option.

Now, I would love to hear the noises you hear. Also, if the starter is engaging and turning the engine, please record it and upload it for me.

Let me know.

Joe

My car will not start. Turning over getting power from battery fuses are good. still will not start.

Hello,

We need to see if you have spark at the plugs here is a guide to help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run this test and get back to us so we can continue helping you.

Cheers, Ken

What happen is the car just stalled out while I was driving. I had it towed home. I pulled the codes all random cylinder miss and cam sensor bank 1 when I pulled out the sensor the sensor had melted with a hole. I replace the both sensors and including the both exhaust and intake solenoids because they had grime oil build up and I replaced the oil temperature sensor. I got everything installed cleared the codes it cranks like it wants to start, but no start and the engine light flashes while cranking the engine so I am thinking the computer needs to be reprogrammed.

no, clear all codes and re-scan it, then try resetting security system if no manual look online for your car on how to do it. As the damage you have already seen it may not restart anyhow so i would really suggest having a professional take a look at this and he/she can use his scanner to scan for codes. Professional scanners have the capacity to pick up codes the DYI home scanners cannot.

Has anyone had this problem and traced it back to the infamous corroded relay problem??

not that we know of. did you fix this problem with a relay and if so which one?