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When an engine cranks but doesn't start, it could be a few things. Things such as low or high fuel pressure, no ignition speak to the plugs, timing, low compression can all cause this condition. First, take a look through this link. It discusses the most common reasons for a crank no start.
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
What I suggest is starting with fuel pump pressure. Here is a link that shows in general how to check it as well as the fuel pressure regulator:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator
Here are the specifics for your vehicle:
GPEC
*CHECKING THE FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM
For a complete wiring diagram refer to Diagrams/Electrical.
Diagnostic Test
1. CHECKING THE FUEL PUMP OPERATION
Turn the ignition on.
NOTE: Diagnose and repair any fuel pump control circuit or relay DTCs before continuing with this test.
With a scan tool, actuate the fuel pump control to ON (100%).
NOTE: It may be necessary to use a mechanics stethoscope in the next step.
Listen for fuel pump operation at the fuel tank. The fuel pump should operate smoothly, without excessive noise. If necessary, compare to a known good vehicle of similar year, make, and model.
NOTE: If the pump has excessive noise or grinding, the pump should be replaced.
caution: Stop all actuation tests before continuing.
Is the fuel pump operating when actuated?
Yes
- Go to 2
No
- Go to 7
2. CHECKING THE FUEL PRESSURE
Turn the ignition off.
WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure even with the engine off. Before testing or servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, the fuel system pressure must be released. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.
Install a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
Turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, actuate the fuel pump relay control. Observe the fuel pressure gauge.
NOTE: The fuel pressure specification is 407 KPa ± 34 KPa (59 psi ± 5 psi).
caution: Stop all actuation tests before continuing.
Select the conclusion that best matches the result of the test:
Fuel pressure is within the stated specification
- Test complete.
Fuel pressure is below the stated specification
- Go to 3
Fuel pressure is above the stated specification
- Replace the fuel filter/pressure regulator.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test
3. RESTRICTED FUEL SUPPLY LINE
Turn the ignition off.
WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure, even with the engine off. Before testing or servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, the fuel system pressure must be released. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.
Raise vehicle on hoist, and disconnect the fuel pressure line at the fuel pump module.
Install special 5/16 fuel line adapter tool #6539 between disconnected fuel line and the fuel pump module.
Attach a fuel pressure test gauge to the T fitting on tool #6539.
Turn the ignition on.
With the scan tool, actuate the fuel pump relay control. Observe the fuel pressure gauge.
NOTE: Fuel pressure specification is 407 KPa ± 34 KPa (59 psi ± 5 psi).
caution: Stop all actuation tests before proceeding.
Is the fuel pressure within specification?
Yes
- Repair or replace fuel supply line as necessary.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test
No
- Go to 4
4. SADDLE FUEL TANK
Is the vehicle equipped with a saddle type fuel tank?
Yes
- Go to 5
No
- Go to 6
5. FUEL TANK SIPHON HOSE OR FUEL LINE RESTRICTED OR DAMAGED
Turn the ignition off.
WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure, even with the engine off. Before testing or servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, the fuel system pressure must be released. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.
Gain access to the fuel pump module and the fuel tank module.
Inspect the fuel line and siphon hose between the fuel pump module and the fuel tank module. Look for disconnected or damaged lines and hoses.
Inspect the fuel pressure regulator for damage or a condition that might cause a fuel flow problem. Make sure that it is seated in the module properly.
Were any problems found?
Yes
- Repair as necessary.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test
No
- Go to 6
6. FUEL PUMP INLET STRAINER
Turn the ignition off.
WARNING: The fuel system is under a constant pressure even with the engine off. Before testing or servicing any fuel system hose, fitting or line, the fuel system pressure must be released. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.
Remove the fuel pump module and inspect the fuel inlet strainer for damage or a condition that might cause a fuel flow problem.
Were any problems found?
Yes
- Replace the Fuel Pump Inlet Strainer.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test
No
- Replace the Fuel Pump Module.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test
7. FUEL PUMP GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN OR HIGH RESISTANCE
Turn the ignition off.
Disconnect the Fuel Pump Module harness connector.
Using a 12 volt test light connected to 12 volts, check the Fuel Pump Motor Ground circuit at the Fuel Pump Module harness connector.
NOTE: The test light should be illuminated and bright. Compare the brightness to that of a direct connection to the battery.
Is the test light illuminated and bright?
Yes
- Replace the Fuel Pump Module.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test
No
- Repair the Fuel Pump Ground circuit for an open circuit or high resistance.
- Perform the PCM Verification Test. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Verification Tests > PCM Verification Test
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Picture 1 are the fuel pressure specs.
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If fuel pressure check good, then check to confirm you are getting spark to the plugs. Here is a link that shows how that is done:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system
Here are some general links to help with testing:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring
If fuel pressure is good and spark is good, then we need to suspect timing or compression. Low compression can be caused by wear, internal damage, or even timing. Take a look through these links:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/the-reasons-for-low-compression
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-low-compression
Here is a link showing in general how it is tested:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression
Here are the directions specific to your vehicle. Specifications are included in the directions.
CYLINDER COMPRESSION PRESSURE TEST
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunctions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the engine starter motor is in good operating condition. Otherwise the indicated compression pressures may not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
1. Check engine oil level and add oil if necessary.
2. Drive the vehicle until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Select a route free from traffic and other forms of congestion, observe all traffic laws, and accelerate through the gears several times briskly.
3. Remove engine cover.
4. Disconnect coil electrical connectors and remove coils.
5. Remove all spark plugs from engine. As spark plugs are being removed, check electrodes for abnormal firing indicators fouled, hot, oily, etc. Record cylinder number of spark plug for future reference.
6. Disconnect injector electrical connectors.
7. Be sure throttle blade is fully open during the compression check.
8. Insert compression gauge adaptor 8116 or the equivalent, into the #1 spark plug hole in cylinder head. Connect the 0-500 psi (Blue) pressure transducer CH7059 with cable adaptors to the DRBIII(R). For Special Tool identification, (Refer to ENGINE - SPECIAL TOOLS).
9. Crank engine until maximum pressure is reached on gauge. Record this pressure as #1 cylinder pressure.
10. Repeat the previous step for all remaining cylinders.
11. Compression should not be less than 1034 kPa (150 psi) and not vary more than 25 percent from cylinder to cylinder.
12. If one or more cylinders have abnormally low compression pressures, repeat the compression test.
13. If the same cylinder or cylinders repeat an abnormally low reading on the second compression test, it could indicate the existence of a problem in the cylinder in question. The recommended compression pressures are to be used only as a guide to diagnosing engine problems. An engine should not be disassembled to determine the cause of low compression unless some malfunction is present.
I hope something here helps. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.
Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 9:49 AM
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