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Loses power, suggested it might be a fuel pump or vacuum leak

Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD TAURUS
  • 1.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 174,000 MILES
Just came from mechanic to clear system check light, codes were related to bank 1 and 2. Drove off lot, about 100 yards, the car cut off. In last 30 days, just replaced EGR valve and EGR solenoid. Mechanic came out of shop and suggested it might be a fuel pump or vacuum leak. He managed to get it started again. On my way home, while climbing a little hill, I accelerated and pressed as hard as I could, it only got to 20-25 MPH, then it eventually accelerated. The car listed above is a lx, model. Any ideas?
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Wednesday, February 16th, 2022 AT 9:28 AM

47 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,901 POSTS
Hi,

The idea that both bank 1 and 2 are being affected could be an issue with a lean fuel mixture. As he told you, that it can be the result of a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure.

By any chance, do you have the codes that were removed? If so, let me know what they are.

Next, a power loss as you described can also be related to a plugged catalytic converter. Take a look through this link. It explains common symptoms related to this type of issue.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

Let me know if what you experience mirrors the symptoms mentioned in the link above.

At this point, without the codes that were deleted, I'm not 100% sure which way to tell you to start. However, I would think looking for vacuum leaks and checking fuel pressure would be a good place to start. If you are comfortable doing it, here are two links explaining how to test:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know your thoughts on the converter. Also, let me know if you are comfortable performing the checks above. You will need a fuel pressure gauge, but most parts stores will lend one to you. If you look at the pic below, I provided the manufacturer's fuel pressure specifications.

Let me know. Also, please confirm if this is a 3.0L engine or a 3.4L.

Take care,

Joe

See picture below.
Image (Click to make bigger)
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Wednesday, February 16th, 2022 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
P0171, P0174, I forgot there was a 3rd one P0401(the device I used said it relates to the EGR, which I recently replaced. Thanks for the quick response.
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Thursday, February 17th, 2022 AT 12:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,901 POSTS
Hi,

You are correct. It is related to the EGR. When you replaced it, did you inspect the intake where it mounts for carbon or any restrictions? Also, is there a vacuum to the EGR? The code is specific to the EGR being stuck closed. Also, is the code still present?

There is an EGR vacuum regulator that can be bad as well. If you look at the pic below, I attached a pic of it. Have you inspected that component for vacuum leaks or the connector for electrical issues?

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
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Thursday, February 17th, 2022 AT 3:17 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
I assumed if I replaced the valve and solenoid, my mechanic should have done that. The light is still on, and I called him waiting to see when he has time. If I had got a new fuel pump, filter and strainer, will this allow me to drive without fear the car will stop unexpectedly?
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Thursday, February 17th, 2022 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,901 POSTS
Hi,

If low fuel pressure is the cause, yes, it should be okay. But we don't know if that is the case. Since we have a lean fuel mixture and EGR codes, I have a feeling there is a leak causing the issues and not the fuel pump.

Not being there does make it a bit more difficult for me, but that is my theory at this point. Do me a favor. Locate the regulator and see if it appears new. Also, make sure the vacuum hoses to it are in good condition and not loose.

Have you checked fuel pressure?

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, February 17th, 2022 AT 4:10 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
I went ahead a replaced the fuel filter, I then rented a fuel pressure gauge kit. I believe it should be anywhere from 37-48 range yet, idling it didn't go pass 25 and revving the engine it didn't get pass 31. Is it possible the fuel pump needs to be replaced? The car cranks over, starts, but the engine dies immediately. Besides a smoke machine is there a less expensive way to check if there are vacuum leaks? Oh, by the way I still have the same codes.
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Wednesday, March 2nd, 2022 AT 6:12 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,901 POSTS
Hi,

The specs indicate 30 to 32 psi at idle and up to 30MPH. I attached them below. The 25 is low, so it may be the fuel pump is just weak.

As far as checking for vacuum leaks, you can use carburetor cleaner. Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know if that helps.

Joe

See pic below (pressure specifications).
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Wednesday, March 2nd, 2022 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Joe, you got a moment?
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2022 AT 9:53 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,901 POSTS
Hi,

I would be happy to call, but it's prohibited by the site. They want everything kept online.

Let me know what is happening and what I can do to help.

I hope you understand,

Joe
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2022 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Okay, after all the advice you provided, I eventually purchased a new fuel pump. The psi was low, so I had a new one installed. When I picked my car up on Mar 26, 2022, I then drove it on Mar 28th, and it literally cut off. I stirred it to the side of the road and was able to start it again. Once I got home, I called my mechanic and he suggested I bring it in. I then waited and today I drove it again, this time it stopped on five different occasions, the code this time showed p0401, my mechanic said it was the EGR valve, so I had it towed to the place where the EGR valve was put in. They said at first, the EGR gasket was out of line, after that mechanic drove it for a few minutes, the same error occurred. Now I am waiting for them to determine if it's a bad valve or solenoid. What is your assessment? Thank you
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2022 AT 4:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

The code is specific to the EGR (insufficient airflow). It could be the EGR is stuck, there is no vacuum to it or the diaphragm in it is bad, the intake is carboned up causing a restriction, or an electrical issue.

What have they checked so far? Also, if the gasket were leaking, it wouldn't be a restriction.

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 29th, 2022 AT 4:47 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
According to the mechanic after diagnosing whether the EGR valve is good, he said the throttle position center is not sending a signal. The code is gone, and the rpms go to 250, when they rev it up, it acts like it wants to shut down, thus far hasn't. They suggest a full diagnostic on their ob2 systems, or just replace the throttle position or for me to walk away since they determined it wasn't the EGR valve or solenoid. Any ideas?
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Wednesday, March 30th, 2022 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
I called my mechanic at the dealership and explained what the other mechanic said where I had the EGR installed, he insisted the EGR valve is not good. So, I called where the EGR valve was installed, suggested they install a new one since it was less than 2 months ago installed, can you explain the difference between a scanned code and a full in-depth diagnostic check. Also, if there are two different opinions from two mechanics, how as a consumer am I supposed to distinguish which is the correct one? I also noticed that your replies have been well thought of, unlike the actual conversations I am having with these two mechanics, for that I am extremely grateful. All I want is my car fixed and unless it is determined what is causing it to shut off, I am afraid to drive it in fear of causing an accident should it shut off in the middle of major traffic.
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Wednesday, March 30th, 2022 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

A scanned code is basically retrieved from the vehicle's computer and nothing more. In most cases, the code is used as a starting point.

An in-depth diagnostic check is where the component in question is physically inspected to determine the true cause of the code.

As a mechanic, I start with a scanner to retrieve a code. That is what I use to start checking. One must keep in mind; a code is a generalization. It doesn't indicate the cause of a problem.

Does that make sense?

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, March 30th, 2022 AT 7:48 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Okay, do I replace the throttle position sensor or run the in-depth diagnostic or both? What about the different opinions from the two mechanics? You never replied about the sensor not sending the signal. Though the car starts it's not safe to drive because it dies at any given moment. What is your expert advice because I have no idea what to do?
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Wednesday, March 30th, 2022 AT 8:34 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,901 POSTS
Hi,

If it were a family member's vehicle, I would follow through with an in-depth diagnostic test. Simply replacing the EGR may not fix the issue.

Please let me know if you have other questions. It is much more difficult doing it online and I don't want to miss anything.

Take care and I'm here if you have questions or if there is anything I can do to help.

Joe
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Wednesday, March 30th, 2022 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
So, what about the first question when the two mechanics did not agree? If they put a new EGR valve and it gets the same error, where do I go from there? I am having trouble believing both of them. You never responded on how I should proceed. The P0401 indicates an EGR issue, yet if the new one ends up with the same problem, I am not sure what to do. Again, I don't want to nickel and dime if neither one of them can determine the problem. I need some major advice and any at this time will be appreciated.
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Thursday, March 31st, 2022 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Morning Joe, sorry to bother you again. When I towed the car in I was able to pick it up on Friday, drove it home, no problems. I drove it the next day, no problems, today I drove it about 4-5 miles and it stopped again. While the car was in the shop, I had them replace the EGR valve, this time one of the mechanics did something, so they claimed they gave me a new fuel regulator. In summary, I keep getting the P0401 error, I replaced the pump, filer, valve, solenoid and regulator, not sure what to do next. I will have them hook it up for an in-depth diagnostic. Any suggestions?
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Monday, April 4th, 2022 AT 8:54 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,901 POSTS
There are several different things that can cause the P0401. However, the code indicates insufficient airflow. When they replaced the EGR, was the inside of the intake where it mounts checked for debris?

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, April 4th, 2022 AT 2:27 PM
Tiny
DBROCK123
  • MEMBER
  • 40 POSTS
Since the mechanic who installed my pump said the EGR valve was bad, I had my current mechanic replace it, so I am assuming if it's brand new it's okay and they by no means will tell me whether the new one is dirty or whatever. In saying all this, what can I expect after replacing all these parts.
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Monday, April 4th, 2022 AT 3:42 PM

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