Will not Move after being stopped at a red light

KMARTIN91394

MEMBER
2013 NISSAN PATHFINDER
4WD
AUTOMATIC
51,576 MILES

It is a push-start. The first problem is, it takes three to four seconds to start from the time I push the button. The second problem happened the other day. I had 1/4 of a tank of gas. I stopped at a red light. When it turned green, I pushed on the accelerator and that is when it happened. The e-brake light, the battery light, and a few other lights came on and my car would not move. I turned it off, then started it again and it was fine until I stopped at another red light. I had to restart my car three times to get through that light. I made it to a parking lot and called someone for help. I sat there idling for forty five minutes straight and had no problems with it shutting off. I had someone run diagnostics and there were no codes. They filled my car with gas and it has been fine since. What is happening?

5 Replies

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,747 POSTS

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

That is a tough one. If the engine stalled when you pressed the gas, that is why the lights would have come on. (let me know if I misunderstood) An engine stall can be caused by so many different things. Has the engine stalled since the refueling?

Since there were no trouble codes, it makes pinpointing the problem nearly impossible with it now running correctly. The only thing I can think of that may not set a trouble code would be the crankshaft position sensor. Take a look through this link. It discusses symptoms of a failing sensor and explains why it may not set a code.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Since I have no trouble codes to reference and the vehicle is presently running correctly, this is the only suspect I can offer. Let me know your thoughts after you review the link.

Take care,
Joe

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Tuesday, November 13th, 2018 AT 6:12 PM

KMARTIN91394

MEMBER
3 POSTS

Thank you for your response! I reviewed the article. My car only stalled when I tried to accelerate after being stopped (in drive). After that, I idled for forty five minutes straight with no problems. The car was shut off, then I had someone go pick it up. When he started it to load it on a trailer, it took a few seconds to start (as always). When he tried backing it onto the trailer, it kept stalling when he pushed the gas, just like it was doing for me.

There is something else and I am not sure if it would have anything to do with what is going on. 9 times out of 10, when I turn left or go around a sharp bend to the left, it is jumpy when I push the accelerator like it is puttering, but it does not stall. If I let up off the gas and push it again, it is fine. If I do not let up off the gas, it "putters" five to ten seconds and then it is fine.

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Wednesday, November 14th, 2018 AT 1:41 PM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,747 POSTS

Okay, that could be fuel or ignition related. Was the check engine light staying on? If so, you need to scan the computer to determine what codes are stored.

If there are no codes, my first suspect is the crankshaft position sensor. Weak fuel pressure would cause driveability issues, but should set a code such as a lean fuel mixture, misfire.

Here is a quick video showing how a scanner is used:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

Here is a link showing in general how fuel pressure is tested:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If you find the pressure us good, then I suspect the sensor is the problem. I attached two pictures for you to see. Locate number 7. That is the crankshaft position sensor. Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,
Joe

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Wednesday, November 14th, 2018 AT 6:40 PM

KMARTIN91394

MEMBER
3 POSTS

This is what it looked like when it stalled except:
-The warning light was on because the tire pressure was low, not because the door was open.
-There was 1/4 tank of gas, not full.

After reading the article, the crankshaft position sensor makes sense.

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Thursday, November 15th, 2018 AT 8:28 AM

JACOBANDNICKOLAS

MECHANIC
109,747 POSTS

Welcome back.

Here is what I want you to do: If the sensor is bad, there will be no spark to the plugs. So, we need to check for that before arbitrarily replacing the sensor. Follow this link. It describes how to check for spark. If there is no spark, my first suspect is the crankshaft position sensor.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

You will need to use a volt meter and a test light. I noticed that you indicated little knowledge, so here are links that show how to use a test light, volt meter, and how to check wiring:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Let me know the results. Feel free to ask questions if you have them. I will keep my eye open for your response.

Take care,
Joe