Car just shut off without any warning

I hope. So about the half moon thing.

One thing that worried me about using that mark is the fact that after I put it all back together and put the timing case back on, I noticed a couple of things.

1. The timing case has a place where -10 to TDC is indicated but nothing that I could see on the pulley lines up with these marks.

2. The only type of marks on the pulley itself are three holes in a line on the edge of the pulley.

Now, when I used the half moon to align with the timing mark on the case, these three holes end up a few inches to the right of the TDC indicator on the timing case.

Why do you think would that be?

Chris

Okay, I cleared the codes replaced the camshaft position sensor with a new one and the vehicle still will not start. (The crank is turning now)

After charging the battery a little and trying to start the vehicle again, I ran another scan and I got the same two codes concerning the camshaft sensor again.

P0340 and P0340 p/d. Remember, I check out all the harnesses like I was supposed to with a volt meter.

It appears now that it is a timing issue.

I found a mark on the back of the crankshaft pulley by running my finger around the rim slowly. It is such a tiny cut that this is the only way to find it.

I tore everything back apart and found that the correct timing mark is not the half moon mark on the crankshaft sprocket at all, it is the hole that is drilled into the angle sensing plate behind the crankshaft sprocket.

When I lined all the timing marks up this time, using the hole that is drilled through the angle sensing plate, the little notch on the back of the crankshaft pulley is right on the TDC mark that is molded into the bottom timing case.

Now, this time when I tried to start the vehicle, it actually tried to start a little. I heard two kinda loud pops (kind of like it was back firing on the old vehicles) but the engine would still not start.

I have been told that this sounds like it is 180 degrees out of time and that I need to be sure that the right piston is at TDC and then allign all the marks. Does this soud correct to you?

Chris

By the way, I have ran two more scans since making these changes and I am not getting any more codes.

Eight months ago, my Mitsubishi 2004 Outlander was idling low and stalling at stops. Eventually, it had problems turning on. I was told that the fuel pump needed to be replaced. This fixed the stalling, but the low idling continued. A few days ago, the check engine light came on which coded for a small evaporation system leak. A day later the car started stalling when cold. I took it in for a smoke test and I was told that there was a pinhole in the filler tube. I was told that the hole was too small to cause the car to stall. I now have to rev the car whenever the car has been at rest for about an hour or so. While I am reving the car, I can feel the engine shake slightly at times. Once the car is warm, it will not stall. However, it is sometimes jerky when starting to move forward. The mechanic that I took it to could not find the problem to it stalling or see any record of it shutting off.

2004 Mit Outlander. I changed alternator and battery. Starts, stays on for a minute and then cuts off. Will stay on if I rev engine. Stalls when I let off the gas. Any thoughts?

Tune up was recent. Fuel injectors were serviced recently. Hooked up Actron Code checker found PASS no codes. Oxygen sensor was incomplete though.

NO engine check lights.

NO fuel in the hose. Where would I find the sensor?

Engine Performance problem
2004 Mitsubishi Outlander Two Wheel Drive Automatic 93000 miles

My wifes car will frequently start but won't keep running. Repeated attempts give same result. If she waits a short while it starts and runs as it should.

Gil

Where can I purchase a scanner like that?

Mit dealer said to bring it in. Thanks for your help.