Codes P0301, P0300, P0302, and P0304, misfire, fuel issue, start then bog down, stopped running

Hi,

The fuel mixture seems lean based on the codes. I realize you replaced the fuel pump. Is the pressure within the manufacturer's specifications? Have you checked for engine vacuum leaks?

Here is what I suggest. First, confirm there isn't an issue related to a faulty crankshaft position sensor. If it checks good, take your scanner and check the short-term fuel trims. Once you do that, let me know the results. That will tell us if it is running rich. Since you replaced the sensors and it's running better, it should provide a good reading.

One other thought... By chance have you checked to see if the catalytic converter is plugged? If you remove the O2 sensor (pre cat) will it run any better?

Let me know.

Joe

I tested "some" of the sensors but i didn't know if the readings were correct. I did not replace any.

I will try starting without '02 sensor' later today to see if the muffler is clogged. Thanks

Well, this is the problem: Converter is clogged up. So, if i just clean out the honeycomb inside, can I reattach it and will it run? Will it hurt the engine?

Hi,

That will do it. By law, you aren't to remove the insides. Will it run okay? Well, it certainly will run much better. The issue is the O2 sensors will not get accurate readings and cause the check engine light to turn on, and I don't know where you are located, but it will likely fail an emissions inspection.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

Two final questions.

1. How does the honeycomb break up inside the converter? Bumps in the road? If so, they are fragile.

2. If the honeycomb pieces fall out, how is that illegal? No way I can "put them back". Also, I have a secondary converter in the tail pipe. It seems to be okay.

Many thanks.

PS, do you have a 'face-time' option? I think that would be awesome and I would be willing to pay for that service.

Hi,

Like anything else, the converter simply wears out. Considering internally, they run at about 1500 degrees F, constant pressure from the exhaust, bumps, hitting things, and so on, they come apart.

The vehicle has two converters. One is integral with the exhaust manifold (pic 1) and the other is under the vehicle (pic 2). If nothing got into the second one, it should be okay.

As far as it being legal, the federal government has implemented laws to lower exhaust emissions. The vehicle is designed to meet a specific standard. Removal is not permitted by law. However, you asked if it comes apart without you knowing. The only way to know it is by checking the engine light, changes in performance, and so on.

Being it is a federal law; I have to tell you it is illegal to remove it. I hope you understand.

We don't offer a face time option. However, that really isn't a bad idea at all. I will suggest it to the site owner.

Regardless, let me know how it runs once you get it back together. Also, if you have questions or if I can help in any way, let me know.

Take care of yourself,

Joe

See pics below.

Well, it is interesting you mentioned "how it runs" once put back together. I think I may be thinking the same as you concerning the secondary converter.

So, on the way home it would run good at 20 MPH but the minute I punched it, it would go high RPMs and stay in first a long time until I removed my foot from throttle, then shift into second gear. likewise with 3, 4th. If going uphill, no power and downshifts. Acting like a clog again, only this time it is running.

Do you think another converter is clogged? I didn't look at it due to the 'rusted' bolts on the second piece connecting to third. It was BAD! I don't know if I could be successful getting off and I don't have spare parts. Would I need to 'cut' it with saw to remove?

So, with that said, if the second converter is clogged will this act like this? Or is it running 'lean' due to the broken first converter not reading 02 sensors. Can I adjust it manually? Is there another alternative?

I am worried if I take off the second pipe and it likewise falls apart (clean pass through) then the 02 sensors will still be messed up.

Here is today's morning scan driving. 15 minutes into drive. Flat surfaces seems okay, but when going uphill it either down shifts high RPMs and slows up, seems to be a significant power loss.

The Po420 is an indicator of the issue with the catalytic converter. Interestingly, there are no short-term fuel trims showing up. That is likely related to the oxygen sensor (B1 S1). The code indicates there is no ground signal to the sensor.

If you look below, I provided the directions related to testing the circuit. This could be throwing things out of wack simply because the fuel mixture is off.

Let me know.

Joe

The documents provided show a different PCM than mine. I am looking under the driver's side dash (left side of pedals) and it is a different terminal inside.

In the meantime, I cleaned out the secondary converter in dish soap overnight and re-attached. It ran okay, except a new code showed up, P2297 (02 Sensor Out of Range During Deceleration Bank 1 Sensor 1).

Hi,

I need to better understand something. How was the converter cleaned? Also, was the front converter the one that was damaged?

Let me know.

Joe

Yes, front converter was damage then I soaked the back converter in the straight piece in soapy detergent water all night long.

Hi,

I never heard of anyone doing that. Anyway, the pic above shows two connectors. One is in the vehicle (C183) at the PCM (see pic 1) and at the O2 sensor (C166). Take a look at the pics below and let me know if that is where you were looking.

Take care,

Joe

Ahh, I was looking at 183-2 not 183-1. And your other pic is a little digitized, but I think it’s the front 02 sensor connection.

So i’m curious if there’s a short or if the ohms are too high, does that mean my harness/internal wiring is bad? If so that sounds super hard to fix….

Hi,

You are correct. Pic 2 shows the O2 sensor at the front of the engine. As far as resistance issues, most times it is related to a corroded connector or simply a weak connection. If you find the resistance is high, what I do first is simply clean the connectors, inspect them to make sure nothing was damaged or pushed in, and then I put dielectric grease in the connector first. Usually, that takes care of the issue.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

I will try to do that this afternoon if I can by the way this is an image of codes that are popping up when the engine is cold in the morning but not so after the engine is hot.

I did the check and it came back 0 ohms.

You have an open circuit in that wire. It's likely broken at some point. If you checked it with both ends disconnected (Sensor and PCM) and got 0, it's open.

Are you able to trace that wire to inspect it? Are you getting a signal ground at the PCM itself?

Let me know.

Joe

Not sure if I know how to get “signal ground” at PCM. Help?

Hi,

If you are checking at the PCM, you should receive a ground signal when the key is on at the PCM pin which is open. A signal ground is used as the reference point for internal electronics. In this case, the PCM.

I hope that makes sense. LOL.

Let me know.

Joe

I guess my weakness is showing itself in broad daylight. I actually don't like electronic things with cars. Ha.

I am now questioning if I even tested it properly according to the documents you sent me. Here is what I did: I attached ground millimeter end to #2 (per your diagram) of front 02 sensor, then touched red end of millimeter to #53 pin in the PCM. The ignition was off, and I didn't get any signal whatsoever. (I think you are now asking to test the 'open ground' the ignition needs to be on?) In fact, while I was trying to touch the #53 pin, I touched many others yet no signal on meter. Did I do the first step correctly? Keep in mind, I thought I read your directions to have ignition to be off on first test.

Now I am not 100% sure the correct steps testing the "open ground" signal. Do you have step by step directions?

Thanks

Hi,

It sounds like you did it correctly. There won't be power in the wire. Instead, you are checking for continuity. In other words, the wire is intact, and power can go from one end to the other.

When you do the test, no power from the vehicle is needed. The meter (when set to ohms) will provide a small amount of power to see if the circuit is complete and how much resistance there is.

Also, and I apologize if I confused you, when I use the word open with regards to the electrical system, basically, I'm saying the wire is broken or there is no ability for power to transfer through the wire.

Let me know if that is what you have done and if what I explained makes sense.

Take care,

Joe