1998 Mercury Sable Cruise Control

The wire showed.02 Ohms twice.

The first time I tried it, I used a paperclip to extend the inside of the connected from the servo, and it wildly fluctuated from -1 to 150, so I think the paperclip was to blame on that. After retesting twice I got.02 both times.

One thing to note, I had the car out of the garage, and went to put it in, and the shifter was very hard to remove from park. Thus the brake switch is to blame, and needs to be replaced just to get the car to work.
I replaced this before, but from the junkyard, guess sometimes things have to be bought new.

I do have another semi-related question for you. Under there, I found a bank of relays, that I can't find an explanation for. There are 4 slots, with 3 relays occupying 3 outta 4 slots, and it's got a cover upside down, but no idea what they are for.
Sometimes when the car doesn't start, I swear coming from there, is this rapid clicking sound. I get the feeling one of them isn't so swift, but I can't tell what they are for, as I disconnected them, and could still drive the car fine.

Can you include a pic of the relay's with the cover off but in the pic and tell me where this relay box is located and I will look to find what they do.

Sure, let me get my camera.

Had to shrink it down a lot, but this is a general idea. That metal thing is the steering knuckle.

. In the meantime I decided to do a tune-up.

Which means you have to remove the upper manifold, and then I broke 2 bolts doing so, cause the dang things are so cheap, they snap off.
Any idea on how to keep this from happening in the future?

I'm going with Motorcraft OEM "Platinum" Spark Plugs, so hopefully I don't have to change them out for 100K miles. It's so dirty on the intake manifold I figured I'd clean those too with carb cleaner and a wire brush. I might have it all done this week.

It's all fun. Oh I found another 3 relays, on the outside by the battery box. Can't remove the cover though as you'd have to remove the battery box to undo the cover for it. Dumb, really dumb. Who thinks of these things?

So these should be Door lock relay, Door unlock relay and flasher relay. Nothing to do with the running of the car. As for the bolts that broke I would anti seaze them unless there are in a water jacked area then I would use thread sealer.

Well that's good. Next time I can't get in the car, I'll know the reason why.

Yes you will. Thanks and let me know how it goes.

So I did a full tune-up and replaced out the standard plugs and put in Motorcraft platinum plugs, in order to fix what I felt was a retarded ignition that, as I fully see was carbon/tarnish build-up everywhere. Sprayed the whole thing out with 2 cans of carb cleaner, and finally got it all started again.

Well it initially wouldn't shift out of park. I thought the switch I replaced was the one to do it. And I was right. I was looking at another person's question from Oct 2008 that mentioned the plastic pushrod switch above that must control the brake lights themselves, and since I didn't have lights on, that this must be the case. Fortunately all it turned out to be was a blown 15amp fuse.

So. It works. The car drives, and the cruise control works. Best of all I got the part from the junkyard cause I had to go there to get replacement long-stem bolts for the intake manifold that I broke while changing out spark plugs that didn't need changing, cause I put Platinum ones in the rear, and el-cheap-o's in the front, and that's why I was having a bad spark and the engine was running rough. Oh the lessons learned today.

So the moral of the story is. You can use used parts, provided your willing to take the risk, but in some instances it's best to go with new stuff, and the premium stuff cause it well just work better in the end.

Thanks for your help.
Brett

Great I am glad it all worked out and that it is now running. Thanks for the update and have a great day.