Timing belt?

Tiny
TEENIE67
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 68,000 MILES
My car jumped timing. How do I reset it?
Friday, August 21st, 2009 AT 1:11 PM

43 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Need to replace timing belt


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/198357_Graphic_91.jpg

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Friday, August 21st, 2009 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
MADZ CARZMAN
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  • 1 POST
  • 2003 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 144,000 MILES
Hi, im replacing the timing belt on my 2003 protege5, im using mazda s manual shop book, as stated in the book I have to align the cams at I and e marks flush to the head and get the crank timing mark to the timing mark on the engine. Trying to do so, when im about the get the marks aligned, the engine "slips" and always goes a few tooths past the markings, and I cant seem to get the cam align properly since im fighting the cams and valves springs
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You need to hold the cam while installing the belt, if not it would skip.

This guide will help you replace the timing belt

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/mazda/protege/2003

TRy using some clips to hold the belt onto the cam sprocket while installing if there is noone to help you hold eht belt in place.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DVELIZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
While trying to install the timing belt, I keep having these problems. I end up with too much belt slack on the idler pulley side. If not I have too much belt slack in between the camshaft sprockets, and the crankshaft is always off of TDC by a bit either to the right or left. Please help. I would really appreciate it.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros. Com. Here are the specific directions from Alldata for removal and replacement of the belt. Chances are you are missing one of the steps. I have attached all relevant pictures related to the process.

TIMING BELT REMOVAL/INSTALLATION [FS]
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the CMP sensor and CKP sensor.
Remove the ignition coils.
Remove the spark plug.
Remove in the order indicated in the image above.
Install in the reverse order of removal.
Inspect the air gap.
Adjust the drive belt deflection/tension.
Start the engine and:
1) Inspect the pulleys and drive belt for runout and contact.
2) Inspect the ignition timing.
Crankshaft Pulley Removal Note

Remove the crankshaft using the SST.
Cylinder Head Cover Removal Note

Remove the cylinder head cover bolts a few turns in the order shown.
No. 3 Engine Mount Rubber Removal Note

Suspend the engine using the SST.
Timing Belt Removal Note

Install the pulley lock bolt.
Turn the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing marks.
Turn the tensioner clockwise using an Allen wrench.

Disconnect the tensioner spring from the hook pin.
Caution:
Forcefully twisting the timing belt turning it inside out, or allowing oil or grease an it will damage the belt and shorten its life.

Note:
Mark the timing belt rotation on the belt for proper reinstallation.
Tensioner, Tensioner Spring Installation Note

Measure the tensioner spring free length.
If not within the specification, replace the tensioner spring.
Free length 36.6 mm (1.44 inch)
Install the tensioner.

Rotate the tensioner.
If tensioner rotates with no resistance or does not rotate, replace the tensioner
Timing Belt Installation Note

Verify that the timing belt pulley mark and camshaft pulley marks are aligned with the timing marks as shown.

Install the timing belt so that there is no looseness at the idler side.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise twice, and align the timing marks.
Verify that all timing marks are correctly aligned.
If not aligned, remove the timing belt and repeat from Step 1.
Caution:
Be sure not to apply tension other than that of the tensioner spring.
Turn the tensioner clockwise using an Allen wrench.

Connect the tensioner to the hook pin.

Turn the crankshaft clockwise twice, and verify that all timing marks are aligned.
If not aligned, repeat from Step 1.
Cylinder Head Cover Installation Note
Verify that the grooves on the cylinder head c over are free of oil, water and other foreign material.
Install the cylinder head cover gasket into the cylinder head cover.

Apply silicone sealant to the cylinder head as shown.

Tighten the cylinder head cover bolts a few turns in the order shown
Crankshaft Pulley Installation Note

Install the crankshaft using the SST.
Water Pump Pulley Installation Note

Install the water pump pulley by facing the "F" marks outward.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions,

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DVELIZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Thank you for the information. Do you have any tips on how to install the belt and how to keep the crank from moving? Like how to keep the belt tight on the idler pulley side because I am having a lot of slack when I get the belt on.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,526 POSTS
The crank will stay still for the most part you should not have slack. Did you match the old belt to the new one to make sure you have the correct one? Also, can you shoot some pictures or a video of what you are talking about so we can see you can upload it in your reply?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DVELIZ
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I finally got it. I just had to pull on the belt really tight on the idler side. Thanks for all the help.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,526 POSTS
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SPHINXKAT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
Engine Mechanical problem
2002 Mazda Protege Manual 166000 miles

2002 Mazda Protege 1.6 L Manual transmission -
I recently went to have my tires changed and asked about some noises I heard from pulleys by the engine. The technician suggested that I have the timing belt changed but shrugged his shoulders when I asked if it's worn out. I bought the car used so I don't know if the belt has ever been changed before. Is there a way to check for wear and tear on the belt? It seems from the diagrams that it's behind a casing - how would I inspect the belt and what signs should I look for. Any info is greatly appreciated.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

If you don't know when the belt was last changed I would be getting it done now, a broken timing belt will do serious damage to your engine, don't second guess this be safe and do it now, normally there are no signs that the belt is worn to the point of breaking that is readily seen, you will have no pre warning when it fails.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RAYDOG1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • MAZDA PROTEGE
Hi! Exactly one month ago, at 58,000 miles on a 2001 Mazda Protege, I had the timing belt/water pump replaced as preventative maintenance along with 4 new tires and an oil change. The repair personnel seemed confindent that this was all I needed to keep the car in good shape at the time.

This morning, the car started to make an awful noise, and as I headed to the same repair shop, it simply died. The diagnosis was the pulley bolt had come loose, shreading the belt (among other things). I escaped with an $800 bill, a perfectly working car, and (luckily) no head damage.

My question is, could this have been prevented? If not, could this have been due to faulty repair?

Thanks in advance for any knowledge!
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COSMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 347 POSTS
Well they took it off to do the timing belt, so they should of tightened it back up again. Yes I would think that they should of repaired it at no charge.

Cosmo. Mazda Tech
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JEFFREY.LESTER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 MAZDA PROTEGE
Engine Mechanical problem
2002 Mazda Protege 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive 91,000 miles

I have a 2002 P5 with a 2.0L engine. Is this engine type interference or non-interference engine? Mazda dealer tells me I should replace timing belt ASAP but owners manual recommends replacement @ 105,000. I am currently having no performance issues with the engine. If timing belt breaks, will it damage piston and valves? Should I replace timing belt as a precaution or wait until timing belt breaks?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Hi there,

The data base doe not make a mention of this engine being an interference type engine, but I would recommend that you change the timing belt before it fails it is not a huge job and it will save you the inconvenience of breaking down (at always the most inconvenient time) and towing costs, do it now and don't get caught out later.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SBATEN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • MAZDA PROTEGE
I have a 2002 mazda protege5 with 67,000 miles. I am currently looking at about $1500 in repairs as estimated by the dealer. I was just wondering how reasonable this is.

Front Brake/rotar replacement - $500
Front Struts - $600
Timing Belt - $390

I have never had my brakes serviced so its probably about time. But they were very vague about the need for replacing the timing belt. Struts I need because I have been experiencing problems at high speed. I feel I might be overpaying.

I greatly appreciate any help you can offer.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRONTIUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
My other car is 2002 protege5 with about 68K. I just got the same request for front struts and rear breaks, the dealership wanted the same price as you quoted. I called Firestone and they will do struts for 480. I am doing research if I can do struts myself.

Also, I did rear breaks myself, after my friend figured out the little trick to unscrew some hidden hex bolt, took less than 30 mins per wheel, saved about $250 of the $300 job. Basically, in the back of your caliper there is a bolt u need to unscrew (dont lose the washer), inside u can use 3mm hex key (completely unscrew) and u will be able to press pistons back to put new pads. When done, tighten the hex and then unscrew it a bit to let the wheel spin (u will feel it).

I doubt front brakes will be harder to do. You can buy new pads/rotors at your autozone/o-reily's for $25/each for rear.

And year, I never touched my car before. But paying someone that much $$$ for something that simple and easy is ridiculous.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:54 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OLDEFORDWAGON
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
Timing belt 2001 Mazda protege 2 liter what are the timing marks
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Here is a guide to help you see where the camshaft timing marks are

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/mazda/protege/200

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHALO
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
  • 2001 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
If I want change my timing belt wish of the two marks I put in the midle the letters or the small points all this of course with the piston number 1 on the hight poin dead
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 1:55 PM (Merged)

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