Engine turns over but won't start?

The car has been running rough at times and at other times it decides to cut off at low speed during stopping or pulling off. The other day the car quit running and would crank but not run. After towing home and checking code, P0320 was set. It is now 3 days later and went to look into problem, car started and ran.

Thanks, I check the code and found the same description. I did check the crank sensor as well by unplugging and the car would not run or start. Reconnected and it started. Noticed notches or teeth that the sensor reads are all evenly spaced except for one, as if it were missing a tooth, but doesn't appear to be broken off.

Any other ideas?

Car turns over but won't start. Checked fuel pressure and spark also compresion but still nothing. Sparyed starting fluid and still nothing any one know whats up? Or had same problem. Tried crank sensor not the problem. I found the problem the timing had jumped a few teeth on cam side do to the spring on the tensoner breaking. Yes the car had fuel, compretion and spark. But when its off on the cam side it can only turn over but will not try to start. Thanks for the help anyway merlin. Nothing was bent because the problem was on the cam side.

Hi,

How would I know if I had a faulty ECU? Is it possible for it to malfunction in only part of what it controls or would nothing work? Is it an all or nothing situation?

My car lost power on the highway, I noticed it had overheated & turned itself off. I coasted to the shoulder. It has never been able to turn over ever since. It cranks & I can see all the pulleys turning, etc, but just won't fire up.

I have replaced the spark plugs, thermostat, fuel filter, fuel pump to no avail. The fuses & relays seem to all be in order as well. A code reader I rented said their were "No Codes". I do however, have power to radio, locks, lights, windows, radio & a/c, etc.

I'm wondering if it's the ECU. I can not hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key. We verified that fuel is not reaching the filter. Can part of an ECU get fried & yet have other things it controls still work?

We're just scratching our heads here.

In my fusebox, there are:

Circuit
TNS
Air Con
H/L
Horn
EGI Main

I have tried to check them by switching them around. I know that my horn works as well as my H/L. So, I took those relays & tried them in Main, etc. No difference & horn, etc still worked w/ suspected relays in their place. Is this an ok way to check? The model #'s of the relays matched so I figured it should be ok.

The fuses all appear to still be intact.

I also wonder if my relays are in the correct order. I once saw a picture of someone Else's & the green one was in a different position. This was before I touched mine for testing. It must have worked because the car ran fine for years in that order. Just a curiosity.

I cant get my car to stART.I man a stop at a red light and it shut off on me.I tryed to start it up and no luck.

I was driving one day and my car just died on me and started smoking where the alternator is and when I tried to start it, it sounded like the belts were just spinning and my battery would die after trying to start it so many times. My engine light was on and so was my oil light. I checked why the engine light was on and it gave me a code for a bad thermostat and there was enough oil. Could it be a bad alternator that isnt making my car start or could it be the fuel pump. Please help me. Thank you.

98 Mazda 626V6 cranks but won't start.