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Engine turns over but won't start?

Tiny
PLATINUM_110
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 MAZDA 626
Mazda has 80,000I recently had my engine replaced. I went through alot of problems in the beginning. I basically had all moving parts replaced on the car (alternator, radiator, belts, powersteering). I had a mechanic tighten up my stick shift, because it was coming out of 5th gear. I also told him about the belts squeaking and he tightened up the powersteering. We go to test drive the car & it won't start. It turns over like it wants to start but doesn't. We checked the fuel pump and it was fine. The mechanic came to the conlusion that the car wasn't getting any power and it is an electrical problem. Is that true? I just don't understand how it was running fine and then all of a sudden it turns over but it just won't start. PLEASE HELP! :/
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Sunday, April 30th, 2006 AT 10:49 PM

38 Replies

Tiny
SYNCRAIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 235 POSTS
It sounds like a main power relay is not working here are tow guides that will helps fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Monday, May 1st, 2006 AT 8:35 AM
Tiny
AORAZI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 MAZDA 626
I have a 1998 Mazda 626 ES 2.5 Liter and recently the harmonic balancer went, so we got it rebuilt and we put everything back together. Now the car will not start! It sounds like its going to start, but it never actually turns over and starts but you can hear it cranking. I've heard that it could be the Crankshaft position Sensor? Does anyone know? Please help. We have also changed the spark plugs and all that because it was sitting for sometime before we actually got the harmonic balancer fixed.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
COSMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 347 POSTS
ALot of time the front crank pulley breaks with age and milage. But they are NOT rebuildable. If it broke abd enough, a piece of the pulley may have hit the crank position sensor and damaged it OR the sensor may have been knocked out of alignment with the reluctor ring on the pulley OR did you put a pulley put on from the same year and engine size?

Cosmo
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
A2SISTEMI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 1998 MAZDA 626
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 324,000 MILES
I have a Mazda 626 2.0tdi dated 1998, over 300.000Km Is an european model
When the engine run for a long time, for example 1-2 hours of highway drive, if I stop it an restart, even within only some seconds, it never start again. The first times it happen, I need to wait 5-10 minutes, now I have to pass a intere night to cool down, and then restart. The only way to start the engine when is hot, is a starter spray (wurth fast start) in the air input (removing air filter). A garage man says that is the tank pump that have a pressure to low. This can be, but I don't understand how can the engine run for hours at 130km/h without problems, and stopping it for a second cause the no start. Any idea?
Thanks a lot
Alberto
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,198 POSTS
I would say the pump is bleeding down or out of time like a distributor in the older cars
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
A2SISTEMI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
You are speaking about the tank electrical pump (there I suspect) or the high pressure pump?
Alberto
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,198 POSTS
You are speaking about the tank electrical pump (there I suspect) or the high pressure pump?
Alberto[/quote:f2e0485a1e]

diesels usually have pumps on the engine not in the tank, ran from the timming chain, in which they need to be timed like a distributor, I am not a masda guy but I though I would try to help
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
A2SISTEMI
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
You are right ! My 626 use only a Denso V5 pump, totally controlled by electronic. I've tested relais and FSOV solenoid and are ok. The spill valve have a resistance value different from service manual, but I'm unable to estabilish if it is damaged.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DONNA C
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1998 MAZDA 626
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
My car sat for approx. 1 1/2 months and we've had 30 degree weather recently but it's now in the 40's. Car wouldn't start, changed the battery, but still it won't start. Someone said to add a bottle of heet to gasline, cause the gas line could have froze, so I did. Still car does not start, its like gas isn't making the connection. The oil is good, the antifreeze is good, the battery is good. Help!
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:46 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,198 POSTS
You are right ! My 626 use only a Denso V5 pump, totally controlled by electronic. I've tested relais and FSOV solenoid and are ok. The spill valve have a resistance value different from service manual, but I'm unable to estabilish if it is damaged.[/Quote:334892b71f]

with the miles you got out of it I would say the pump is weak, might want to look into a rebuilt one or go to the junk yard
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Do below and comeback with some results:

Disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor /distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM, Ignitor camshaft and crankshaft sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RUI RIBEIRO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I have a Mazda whit the same problem. I need to know if you have the solution for the problem?
Thanks
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DONNA C
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks I'll try. Let you know if that works!
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RUI RIBEIRO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I need help, because here in my country no budy knows the problem, my car don ´t runn when is warm. I verify everything all sensors but nothing is wrong, I don ´t understand.
Thanks.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PETER0038
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Hi,
From my experience with the 2.0TD engine (98-02), the problem is most likely that some rubber parts have perished which are part of the diesel pump. The diesel pressure is lost so the car doesn't start. A good diesel specialist should sort this out without major expense.
Peter
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RUI RIBEIRO
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Hi,
But if we take off the temperature sensor the engine start, I don ´t understand why.
Here in Portugal there are not a solution and I don ´t know what doing next. The car only have 153800 KM.
Rui
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GS2010
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 MAZDA 626
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90,000 MILES
I've ha this problem for about 2 3 months now and it's a problem starting the car like it doesn't crank all I hear is the key when I turn it. Now this problem happens after I started the car and drove about 20 30 or however much I drive then I go to start it and nothing sometimes I'll keep on switching key to see it will turn on and it does but sometimes it hasn't I changed starter altanater and battery.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
YCHAKAROV
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Hi there I have the same problem and a workaround but not solution.
I believe that this is connected with the Denso diesel pump.
When I bought the car 1998 2 liter mazda 626 the engine was working on emergency mode. There was a brown wire to a sensor next to the denso pump was cut. I connected the wire and the car had issue to start the engine when is hot.
Then I made a manual switch that I can change when the brown wire is connected once the engine start.
It is not the best way, but since it works I prefer this than Denso repair that is very expensive.
If somebody is interested I can give more details.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check fuses in pic then check to see if power goes through trans switch if no power through fuses try bending prongs just a tad to see if they will make contact as it may be a fuse box problem or corrosion on fuses
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • MECHANIC
  • 6,110 POSTS
What's most likely happening is that the heat of the engine compartment is vaporizing the fuel because the pump pressure is insufficient to keep it liquid.
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Monday, July 6th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM (Merged)

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