Losing oil quickly, could it be the rear main seal?

I place the drain plug in but I see where the other leak is coming from.

From the bottom.

The photo I sent was taken on the driver’s side front of the vehicle. Underneath the transmission there’s an opening where you can see the teeth on a gear and there’s a bolt in the center with a flange that's a 10mm bolt and next to it from Front and back of that bolt are two that are the same size that are 19mm or 18mm the heads are facing the passenger side wheel. The picture that you sent me of the transmission vent bolt and transmission drain plug photo of where the location. Just picture those on the opposite side of the transmission. Looks the inner bell housing inner seal is leaking in order for that to be coming from there and the rear seal. I did not want to go through that whole process when I had replaced the pressure plate, clutch disc, slave clutch. I don’t have a vehicle lift or engine hoist transmission jack. Those three things would help. I decided to take it to a transmission shop. Mechanic quoted under $750.00 and would have finished Friday but he called me Thursday early evening just left a message to call them back. It couldn’t be any more components? Just the seals need to be replaced. Also, I didn’t seize up the transmission and burn out the clutch. If anything, possibly have the clutch disc turned.

Luckily, the clutch kit I had bought back in November was still under warranty at Advanced Auto Parts I had bought the Car Quest the only clutch kit they had available was the Lux brand and was able to do the swap and pay the difference. The mechanic had shown me the Slave cylinder seal was pinched. He had also mentioned that I was using the wrong transmission fluid. That I needed the Syncromesh fluid but I doubled checked and only need the Syncromesh if my vehicle was the SS transmission. The LT & LS models use ATF Dextron VI two quarts. Tried to get me for $150 for the fluids. I had the flywheel turned at a shop that I’ve taken it before it was $70 the first time and this time $60. Where the mechanic wanted to charge me $170. From a $2,000 bill brought down to $844 for replacing the rear seal and inner seal and he agreed if I get the parts he would just charge me the labor. Which came out to the $844. I checked underneath and noticed a thin film of transmission fluid where it was coming from in the beginning. I hope the guy did what he said he had done. I had to bleed the clutch pedal. The mechanic gave me my vehicle with the pedal to much play.

After picking up the car. I was underneath the car putting back on the driver’s side splash guard. While I was underneath the vehicle I can see couple of wet spots one I can see its oil and the other Transmission fluid the redish color. I also found a bolt that was snapped off and fell by the compressor by the firewall on the passenger side. I also got a check engine light and it reads Mass Air Flow. When I brought the car back to the transmission shop and showed the guy the bolt and I told him. I’m the only person who’s worked on the car and them. I didn’t break it so I figured whoever broke it would at least tell me. Also I am still getting a leak from the transmission. He responds with will check out where this bolt came from. Calls me back after a few hours to tell me that they bleed my clutch since it tends to get air into it.(Mechanic stating) and looked everywhere don’t see where it came from. It says nothing about the transmission fluid but informs me that I have an oil leak coming from the Intake. When I stopped by AutoZone one of the guys there took a listen to the car running and as he took a look with hood open. Said he notice the fumes immediately coming from the exhaust manifold. That the bolts were not tighten to torque specs if the transmission shop had removed it to get to the transmission? More likely it sounds like I need to replace the Intake manifold gasket & is there a gasket needed for the exhaust manifold? Where that leak is looks like the spot behind the alternator that's near the hydraulic line. That piece also looks like it's got a leak but I know that it shares brake fluid with the brake master cylinder.

This is the bolt I found by the passenger side between the firewall, and I believe the A/C compressor tucked in an area. It does look similar to the ones that bolt the exhaust manifold.

Yes, it looked like it came from the exhaust manifold, looked up the parts and looked very similar! Darn mechanic wouldn’t admit he snapped one of them off.

Yes, after driving the vehicle minimum as possible. I found the snapped bolt is on the far top left if I'm standing in front of the car. I picked up a new exhaust manifold gasket and hardware. Also a extractor bolt bits. I may not have room between the firewall and the bolt I have to drill out. My neighbor has a engine hoist I could use. Other than loosening the motor mounts and supporting the transmission with a block of wood and floor jack. What else would I have to disconnect to gain better access to the that snapped off bolt? At least I can replace the passenger side motor mount while I am at it. Where that bolt that's snapped off I believe that's where the fumes are coming since that bolt doesn't have a nut to fasten and hold it tight against the manifold.

As I was loosening the three bolts that connect to the exhaust pipe which I believe is the catalyst converter. That’s where I saw the cracks along the neck of the pipe. Thats where my leak and buzzing sound is coming from. Can I just tack weld along to repair instead?

When I drove it the late afternoon giving it plenty of time to set up (JB weld) I drove it around nearby and could smell the JB weld hence it's going to be heated thought it would withstand the temperature. The sound is just as loud. Going to have to take a look in the morning to see what came off or exposed? Going to have to cut off that flex portion of the pipe and weld another piece to take its place.